Marc by Marc Jacobs FW/09

[why]

While I think the mainline has matured a bit (in a good way) and the women's collection still seems to get most of the attention, Marc by Marc Jacobs is a pretty solid diffusion line that's fun and wearable without being a rosette-covered purple suit. The clothes themselves tended to amount to more than the sum of their show. Awesome track pants:

Paisley-on-paisley shirt and tie combo:

Great tweed blazer:

I love some of these blurred-print shirts:

 

[rach2jlc]

^I agree. I felt like this was the best M by MJ collection I've seen yet, or at least the one with which I felt the most immediate connection. I liked the patterns, I liked the colors, and I liked the way it was all put together. Simple, fun, wearable, and not too costume-y like some of the others...

Overall, the FW seasons in Paris, Milan, and NY have really surprised me with some nice offerings. Bad for my wallet; good for my wardrobe.

 

[mulansauce]

I like the tweed blazer as well. For some reason I never pay attention to MJ menswear collections. I guess they just get overshadowed by the womenswear.

 

[dkzzzz]

I just don't get it. Why all the fanboyism about very mediocre mens' designer. I fail to see anything new, interesting or innovative about Mark JAcobs designs. He is a project runway type of designer.
It seems to me he throws together random menswear pieces.

 

[rach2jlc]

Originally Posted by dkzzzz

I just don't get it. Why all the fanboyism about very mediocre mens' designer. I fail to see anything new, interesting or innovative about Mark JAcobs designs. He is a project runway type of designer. It seems to me he throws together random menswear pieces.
He doesn't even do his own menswear... he's said in interviews before that he just doesn't "get" it or like doing it. Nevertheless, I still think his creative directors and teams who design it for him do a good job. The point with MJ, from the start, has not been about massive revolutions. It's been about putting together simple, kitschy elements from other places. He's not trying to be Cristobal balenciaga, here. I think it works... but many don't. That's the fun of fashion.

 

[mulansauce]

Originally Posted by rach2jlc

He doesn't even do his own menswear... he's said in interviews before that he just doesn't "get" it or like doing it.
This would explain how he dresses.

 

[rach2jlc]

Originally Posted by mulansauce

This would explain how he dresses.

Exerpt from "Butt" Magazine:

That National Geographic collection that you did for Louis Vuitton men's wear this summer, was that your intuition? I love that collection.
MJ: Yeah, me too. You know I'm very happy with the team that does men's wear for us, with Keith, and with Olivier and Willy and Peter. I sometimes wish I were more involved. but men's wear is not something I'm really good at. In fact, men's fashion frightens me. I really find men who are fashionably dressed terribly unsexy. I think fashion is something for women. It's a terribly sexist thing to say, but I just don't find fashionably dressed men attractive, and men who take too much time in the bathroom and spend too much time on their body, I find a bit poncy and silly. It just doesn't turn me on. So I let it go to the people who find it a turn-on and who are really passionate about it.
It's weird to have your name put on the collections they make, isn't it?
It is. I feel a certain amount of shame. I feel a bit fraudulent in saying that I've been doing this men's wear collection when I haven't had daily involvement in it. Although I can say very honestly I don't do every part of the women's collection, I am involved in every aspect of the women's collection. But with the men's, it's a bit different. I feel like a bit of a fraud, and that's what's tough for me. I don't know what other designers feel, but I just don't like to pretend that I'm something that I'm not. I'm not superman and I don't do everything.

Full interview here:
http://www.buttmagazine.com/?p=89

 

[mulansauce]

Originally Posted by rach2jlc

Exerpt from "Butt" Magazine:

men who take too much time in the bathroom and spend too much time on their body, I find a bit poncy and silly. It just doesn't turn me on. So I let it go to the people who find it a turn-on and who are really passionate about it.

This must be before he decided to start working out every day.

 

[chronoaug]

Originally Posted by dkzzzz

I just don't get it. Why all the fanboyism about very mediocre mens' designer. I fail to see anything new, interesting or innovative about Mark JAcobs designs. He is a project runway type of designer.
It seems to me he throws together random menswear pieces.

I thought he said once that he doesn't really design collections but just pulls from looks/pieces that he (or his team) has designed in the past and throws it together kinda like a stylist rather than designer. I don't know, marc jacobs mens stuff always seemed more like a "brand" like corpus, bson, BoO, ndg, appolis, wwm.


That said, i'm not a huge fan of the sneakers. Not into track pants, would like better if they were khakis. Some of the button ups are alright but m by mj fit isn't that good and the materials usually don't feel that great so no way i'd consider it.

 

[SoCal2NYC]

The thing with MMJ is the styling and presenatation on the runway is great; but, it never translates as nicely to the racks.

 

[why]

Originally Posted by dkzzzz

I just don't get it. Why all the fanboyism about very mediocre mens' designer. I fail to see anything new, interesting or innovative about Mark JAcobs designs. He is a project runway type of designer. It seems to me he throws together random menswear pieces.
For M by MJ it is thrown together on the runway. The diffusion line is more meant to be wearable pieces than a show, but the clothes themselves usually deliver quite well. M by MJ jeans are are a great price for a good cut and quality denim, the tees are always super soft and drapey with quirky fun prints, and items like the track pants are odd enough to stand out without being over-the-top. In regards to the track pants: I wear them for work a lot. While it'd be nice to wear the Lanvin sweats with a suit from a few seasons back, $1200 sweat pants are tough for me to stomach. I also wear Bikkembergs to work which I'm convinced is one of the only places to wear them without looking like a Eurotrash tool.

Originally Posted by SoCal2NYC

The thing with MMJ is the styling and presenatation on the runway is great; but, it never translates as nicely to the racks.
It's pretty consistent in my experience especially since the price point is lower than the mainline.

 

[SoCal2NYC]

Originally Posted by why

It's pretty consistent in my experience especially since the price point is lower than the mainline.

What?

 

[why]

Originally Posted by SoCal2NYC

What?

Is that the incredulous 'What?' or the interrogative?

I'm assuming it's the latter. I'm just saying that M by MJ in my experience is fine when it 'hits the rack'. It's one of the few diffusion lines that still has identity (without massive logos everywhere) and quality despite not being mainline. Heck, I liked M by MJ's SS09 more than the MJ mainline menswear show. Usually MJ mainline is more mature than M by MJ, but in SS09 the mainline was a bit too boyish.

 

[TheFusilliJerry]

not really a fan of the trackpants or sneakers, but I really liked all of the blazers, and the last pic especially.

 

[Souper]

I kind of auto-hate this line for some reason, something about being a cheap diffusion with questionable design behind it. That said, some of the jackets fit well and theres always a sale to be had.

I wouldnt really buy anything, and no piece ever stands out. more like bland wardrobe filler pieces. I have a great fitting denim jacket, thats about it.