Malaysian bespoke

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by hymo, Oct 13, 2009.

  1. hymo

    hymo Senior member

    Messages:
    447
    Likes Received:
    20
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2009
    Location:
    Hermes Man land
    Just took delivery of my bespoke here in Kuala Lumpur. Cloth is a dark grey herringbone from Huddersfiled, buttons from Hwa Seng, lining is pure silk sateen. Half canvassed.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  2. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    25,724
    Likes Received:
    3,386
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    NYC
    suit looks good and I am assuming procured at a good price. I know nothing of tailoring but the jacket looks clean front and back and the sleeve pitch and lapels look good.

    Not sure why, but I find your username really disturbing [​IMG]
     


  3. Alter

    Alter Senior member

    Messages:
    4,539
    Likes Received:
    145
    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2004
    suit looks good and I am assuming procured at a good price. I know nothing of tailoring but the jacket looks clean front and back and the sleeve pitch and lapels look good. Not sure why, but I find your username really disturbing [​IMG]
    Make you feel like breaking something, Ed? And I agree about the suit. Nice fit..the waist suppression is well done.
     


  4. hymo

    hymo Senior member

    Messages:
    447
    Likes Received:
    20
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2009
    Location:
    Hermes Man land
    Hymo is a brand of horsehair canvas from Germany. It's used in a generic sense nowadays. No, it doesn't refer to anything thin and puncturable.[​IMG]
     


  5. Confucius

    Confucius Senior member

    Messages:
    492
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2006
    Location:
    KL
    Hi sorry to bump an oldish thread but just wondering where you did your suit and how you found the whole experience with the tailor.

    Thinking of making my first foray into the bespoke world...
     


  6. hymo

    hymo Senior member

    Messages:
    447
    Likes Received:
    20
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2009
    Location:
    Hermes Man land
    http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?ac...ost&id=1244926

    We had long and heated arguments in coming up with this suit. You need to look at his house cut, then decide what needs to change, then communicate it to him. At the fitting stage, you'll need to point out ON THE BASTED SUIT what you want changed.

    This suit makes for a great visual impact on others. I get all sorts of comments when I wear it.
     


  7. hymo

    hymo Senior member

    Messages:
    447
    Likes Received:
    20
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2009
    Location:
    Hermes Man land
    I went to Ah Loke tailor in Kuala Lumpur today to commission my second suit. The cloth is a WWChan vintage cloth that yfyf brought to our attention. 100% superfine kid mohair, 8 oz., navy woven with white resulting in a rarely seen metallic bluish gray. [​IMG] I included habotai silk lining of a similar tone. I'm amazed with this material: It is so porous, yet so shiny and strong. I can't think of a better lining for a summer mohair suit. I was originally thinking of getting ermazine, but who can bother with something synthetic like that when silk of this sort is available? Got some light brown horn buttons from Hwa Seng as well. (Color C) [​IMG] I used his previous suit for me (pictured above) as a reference for this commission. Differences include 1. Open quarters 2. A cleaner back 3. More exquisite buttonholes Baste fitting is on Tuesday.
     


  8. Svenn

    Svenn Senior member

    Messages:
    1,716
    Likes Received:
    45
    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2008
    How much was your previous suit hymo?

    Did he offer full canvassing if you ask?
     


  9. hymo

    hymo Senior member

    Messages:
    447
    Likes Received:
    20
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2009
    Location:
    Hermes Man land
    He charged me RM600 (USD 180) for labour in both cases. No, he doesn't do full canvassing, not at any price.
     


  10. Svenn

    Svenn Senior member

    Messages:
    1,716
    Likes Received:
    45
    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2008
    He charged me RM600 (USD 180) for labour in both cases. No, he doesn't do full canvassing, not at any price.
    Woah... that's amazing. I'm not familiar with cheap tailoring in Asia, but is it really the full 'bespoke' we hear about on say Savile Row that has dozens of measurement points, or is it a sort of 'quick and dirty' bespoke where he just alters a preexisting pattern? Is there any chance it's just MTM? How many fittings were there? Guidebooks always say that suits in that price range tend to fall apart quickly.... is your tailor tourist or local oriented? If the former, I would worry it might fall apart quickly; though in reality, it's not that big of a deal to have to stich up a $180 suit on occasion. Why do you think he's not willing to do full canvassing? Related question to anyone, can one make up for the lack of full canvassing by just having a heavier wool? Edit: oh, i see you said $180 "for labor" ...how much was the fabric?
     


  11. hymo

    hymo Senior member

    Messages:
    447
    Likes Received:
    20
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2009
    Location:
    Hermes Man land
    Both suits cost around $340 each with cloth, lining, buttons and labor.

    It's pretty bespokey. I had a measurement session followed by two fitting sessions before picking up a finished suit. It's not "MTM". He draws the pattern with chalk in hand directly on the cloth based on your measurements and his recollection of your body. He's like 64-years old, and a second-generation tailor. If you're highly talented at giving technical directions (which I doubt) you can get him to give you any silhouette you want.

    There is no demand for full-canvassing in Malaysia. I'm the only nuthead who goes around the country looking for it. To no avail. Though I just got a fresh lead today -- from Ah Loke himself.
     


  12. Svenn

    Svenn Senior member

    Messages:
    1,716
    Likes Received:
    45
    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2008
    Both suits cost around $340 each with cloth, lining, buttons and labor.

    It's pretty bespokey. I had a measurement session followed by two fitting sessions before picking up a finished suit. It's not "MTM". He draws the pattern with chalk in hand directly on the cloth based on your measurements and his recollection of your body. He's like 64-years old, and a second-generation tailor. If you're highly talented at giving technical directions (which I doubt) you can get him to give you any silhouette you want.

    There is no demand for full-canvassing in Malaysia. I'm the only nuthead who goes around the country looking for it. To no avail. Though I just got a fresh lead today -- from Ah Loke himself.

    Wow, that level of tailoring is good enough for me. I'll definitely have to keep that tailor in mind if I'm in the area again. If I could get 2 suits done by him simultaneously, that would definitely offset the cost of the airplane ticket, and provide a nice vacation. Where did you choose the cloth from? Have you had any experience with other tailors in the region? Bangkok, etc?
     


  13. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

    Messages:
    4,905
    Likes Received:
    1,048
    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2009
    Location:
    Australia
    Suits looks great judging by the supplied photos. Very good deal. Wear it in good health [​IMG]
     


  14. Confucius

    Confucius Senior member

    Messages:
    492
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2006
    Location:
    KL
    Wow RM1,200 for the suit? That's a sweet deal. I have no idea where 'Off Campbell Road' is though.

    I live across the road from KLCC so I might speak to Fox tailor and see what they charge. They have some nice Loro Piana fabrics in their window.

    (p.s. that Lowyat forum is full of tossers)
     


  15. hymo

    hymo Senior member

    Messages:
    447
    Likes Received:
    20
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2009
    Location:
    Hermes Man land
    Wow, that level of tailoring is good enough for me. I'll definitely have to keep that tailor in mind if I'm in the area again. If I could get 2 suits done by him simultaneously, that would definitely offset the cost of the airplane ticket, and provide a nice vacation. Where did you choose the cloth from? Have you had any experience with other tailors in the region? Bangkok, etc?

    The charcoal herringbone is from a cloth merchant 10 minutes from the tailor. They're selling it for RM140/m.

    Wow RM1,200 for the suit? That's a sweet deal. I have no idea where 'Off Campbell Road' is though.

    I live across the road from KLCC so I might speak to Fox tailor and see what they charge. They have some nice Loro Piana fabrics in their window.

    (p.s. that Lowyat forum is full of tossers)


    You drive along Jln Tuanku Abdul Rahman. It's a one way street. You'll eventually see Sogo, then down a bit you'll see Pertama Complex. Turn left, and you're on Campbell Road, with Campbell Complex on your right. To the left are several car parks; pick one. Then you walk down the road, turn left into "Asian Heritage Row". Lots of small pubs and bars. At the first junction turn right. His shop is the second.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by