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MAJOR DROPS! FORMALWEAR! 38- 44: Tuxedos from Vintage 1958 to NEW WITH TAGS Blackwatch Shawl collar!

Discussion in '2011-2017 Classic Menswear' started by tweedydon, Nov 22, 2012.

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  1. tweedydon

    tweedydon Distinguished Member

    Likes Received:
    May 18, 2009
    I have some absolutely wonderful formalwear to pass on today--just in time for the holiday season! (Please note that I also have a beautiful pair of Made in England for Brooks Brothers formal opera pumps; these will be listed shortly!) Ranging from a vintage 1958 dinner jacket to BRAND NEW WITH TAGS Shawl-collar tuxedo in muted Blackwatch, together with (coming in other posts) a slew of evening shirts, cummerbunds, and a vintage formal bowtie, there's something for everyone here!

    As always, FREE SHIPPING ON EVERYTHING IN THE CONUS, with International inquiries welcome, with shipping at cost.


    Please PM with interest and offers!

    1) BRAND NEW WITH TAGS Blackwatch Shawl Collar Dinner Jacket/Tuxedo in CASHMERE AND WOOL!


    This is absolutely GORGEOUS! From the wardrobe of one of the most prominent members of AAAC's Trad Forum, this is simply stunning. Beautifully cut in Blackwatch plaid--THE classic Ivy holiday plaid--this wonderful shawl-collared tuxedo is cut from cloth that's 97% wool, and 3% cashmere, to give it a beautiful drape and a lovely soft hand. This is half-canvassed, and fully lined, with a fleur-de-lys pattern on the dark lining. It has a single button closure--as is proper--and covered cuff buttons. It has a single vent. It is, of course, is MINT condition, still having all of its original bastings--including the shoulder basting--and all of its original tags, which are all still attached by their original hangtags. This is SUPERB, and you should grab it if it's your size--or could be tailored to it! The quality of this is comparable to that of Brooks' better stuff.

    This originally retailed at $595, so how about $145, boxed, shipped, and insured?

    Tagged a 44R, this measures:

    Chest: 22 1/2
    Sleeve: 25 1/2 (+1 1/2)
    Shoulder: 20
    Length: 31 1/2


    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    2) VERY recent Peak-Collared Tuxedo.


    Another beautiful offering from the wardrobe of the same Trad Forum member who is passing on the Blackwatch! Like the Blackwatch, this is in absolutely excellent condition. It is half-canvassed and fully lined. It is ventless, in Flusser-approved style, and has jetted pocket--still basted shut. It has a single button closure. The trousers are pleated, and have buttons for suspenders inside the waistband. The jacket is darted, and has a single button closure. This is in excellent condition, except for a small smudge on the left-hand lapel which I only noticed when examining this in bright sunlight. This is likely to come out with dry cleaning, but because of it this tuxedo is in Very Good/Excellent condition.

    Asking just $85, or offer.

    Tagged a 44R, this measures:

    Chest: 23 1/4
    Sleeve: 25 1/2 (+ 1 3/4)
    Shoulder: 20
    Length: 31 1/2

    Waist (measured flat): 20 1/4
    Inseam; 31 1/2 (+ 2 1/2)


    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    3) Velvet Tuxedo

    The last tuxedo offering from the AAAC member whose closets yielded up the two jackets, above, this lovely velvet dinner jacket/tuxedo is features satin peak lapels, covered buttons, a single button closure, likely half-canvassing, jetted pockets, and a single vent. It is also fully lined, 100% cotton, and in excellent condition. This is also the top of the line for Banks, and so is comparable to Brooks' offerings. If you'd like a velvet dinner jacket, and this is your size, GRAB IT!

    Asking just $75 > 70, or offer.

    Tagged a 44R, this measures:

    Chest: 22 1/2
    Sleeve: 25 1/2 (+1 1/2)
    Shoulder: 19 7/8
    Length: 31 3/4


    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    4) RECENT Fumagallis Shawl Collar Tuxedo

    ignore the name this is beautiful! Half-canvassed and fully lined, this features a wonderful, classic shawl collar, jetted pockets, singe button closure, and covered buttons. It is also ventless, in Flusser-approved style. The trousers are pleated, and feature interior buttons for suspenders. This is in absolutely excellent condition, and is a steal at

    just $65 > 50 > 40, or offer.


    Chest: 22 3/4
    Sleeve: 28 1/2 (+2 --just in case you are deformed and need this extra!)
    Shoulder: 22 1/4
    Length: 33 1/2

    Waist (laid flat): 21
    Inseam: 33 (+ 2 1/4)


    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    5) VINTAGE 1962 Shawl-collar Tuxedo from Raleigh Haberdasher of Washington, DC!

    Raleigh's was one of the Trad bastions of DC, being a high-end family-owned haberdasher's until it was sold in 1984. This tuxedo dates from its heyday, having been cut and built in the USA (where else? RED CHINA?! Not in 1962!) in 1962. It is a beautiful example of tradly formal tailoring; a wonderful, swooping shawl collar, which features a buttonhole for one's boutonniere, jetted pockets, no vent, and a half-lining. It is half-canvassed. The trousers are subtly pleated, and feature interior buttons for suspenders. This is simply terrific, and is unmistakely a 1960s Trad tuxedo--Ralph Lauren would kill for this level of authenticity!

    It does have a couple of minor flaws, as shown. There's a very, very small pinprick hole in the bottom right hand corner of the front of the jacket, which I only found on second inspection, in bright light. This would be an easy fix for a dry cleaner tailor, or else could be ignored. The lapels have a hint of the start of a fray right at the edge at the bottom. Both give this jacket a wonderful patina, and a hint of tradly insouciance! Overall, then, this is conservatively in Very Good condition.... especially considering its age! Clearly, good clothes really do last if properly cared for.....

    Given its provenance, and condition, this is a steal at just $50 > 35, or offer.

    Tagged a 39L, this measures:

    Chest: 21 1/2
    Sleeve: 24 1/2 (+1 3/4)
    Shoulder: 18 1/2
    Length: 32 1/4

    waist: 16 1/2
    Inseam: 30 1/2 (+2 1/1)


    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    6) AN IVY LEAGUE BEAUTY! Shawl collar from The English Shop of Princeton.

    No listing of Ivy league formalwear would be complete without an offering from The English Shop of Princeton--and so here one is! This is an Ivy Classic--a beautiful shawl-collar tuxedo from one of the Big Four of Princeton's Ivy league clothiers. And what a shawl collar--lovely and narrow, this was the height of cool in around 1963, which is the era this jacket dates from. This is cut so beautifully and classically that it could slide from a stuffy cocktail party at the President's House (the real President, of Princeton University, not some suspect politician...) to a jazz dive with ease.... as no doubt it did! Fully canvassed and fully lined, this has a single vent, two button cuffs, flapped pockets, and covered buttons. It's in wonderful condition, with the exception of some minor fraying at the back of eh collar, on the inside, as shown, and some discoloration to the interior label. As such, this is in overall Very Good condition.

    This would be PERFECT worn with tartan trews for a tradly holiday look... which is how I wear my own TES c. 1965 shawl collar!

    Asking just $45 > 35 > 30, or offer--a steal for an American Ivy classic!


    Chest: 21 1/2
    Sleeve: 25 1/2 (+1)
    Shoulder: 18 3/4
    Length: 31


    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    7) ANOTHER IVY CLASSIC! Shawl-collar tuxedo from a Dartmouth clothier!

    If Princeton is the well-groomed preppy of the Ivy campuses, Dartmouth is the slightly tousled cousin, with a hip flask of bourbon in a coat pocket and Bean Boots under the cuffs of the tux..... But you wouldn't guess it from this Ivy beauty, which is as lovely as its TES cousin, above. Made for the Dartmouth University outfitters James Campion, this beauty has the same narrow shawl collar lapel as the TES tuxedo above; however, this is that rarity, a sack cut tux, and features uncovered buttons, and tradly two button cuffs. It has flapped pockets and a single button closure. Did I mention that it's a sack tux? The cloth is slightly heavier than the more refined tuxes, above, and is perfect for a slightly unheated house in a NH winter--who needs heat when you have bourbon, after all? This jacket is a wonderful tradly item, and would be perfect with tartan trews! It has a very, very faint scuff to the lapel, and is an older tux, so conservatively it's in Very Good condition. It was Union Made in the USA.

    Asking just $40 > 30 > 27, or offer.

    Tagged 44L, but runs small; Measurements:

    Chest: 21 1/2
    Sleeve: 26 (+1 1/2)
    Shoulder: 18 3/4
    Length: 30 7/8


    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    8) Hickey-Freeman Customized Shawl Collar Tuxedo--from 1975!

    This is absolutely beautiful! In excellent condition, it's a shock to realise that this tuxedo is from 1975; it could easily have been purchased yesterday. Fully canvassed and half-lined, this has flapped pockets, a single center vent, a single button closure, and four uncovered cuff buttons. It's in absolutely excellent condition, and was, of course, Made in the USA.

    A steal at just $45 > 35 > 30, or offer.

    Chest: 23
    Sleeev: 26 (+1 1/4)
    Shoulder: 19
    Length: 32 1/2


    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    9) STUNNING VINTAGE 1958 Shawl Collar tuxedo--utterly Mad Men!


    This is FANTASTIC! Dating from 1958, this could easily have been cut yesterday for Mad Men--it's in stunning condition for its age, and overall excellent condition by any criterion. It has a wonderful shawl collar, flapped pockets, a single button front, and tradly two button cuffs. It is also that rarity--a sack tuxedo. It is fully lined, features a formal slanted interior pocket on the seam--a hallmark of its age!--and has a single vent. It appears to be half canvassed. Did I mention it is in wonderful condition? It was, of course, Made in the USA.

    This was made for Croyden Men's Shop in Trenton, NJ--when Trenton, not Princeton, was where the wealthy of Mercer Co. aspired to live. (Clearly, this is from an age that is long, long, gone...) Croyden had aspirations of becoming a nationally-known but regionally located store, rather like Press, and advertised as a classic men's store in The New Yorker in the 1950s and early 1960s.... the precise era that this is from!

    This does have some minor rubbing on the inside of the back of the collar--but this can't be seen from the front and shouldn't be of concern for at least another decade--no fraying yet, just rubbing!

    Given its rarity, beauty, and provenance, this is a steal at just $50 > 35, or offer.

    Tagged a 38, this measures:

    Chest: 20 1/4
    Sleeve: 25 (+1 1/2)
    Shoulder: 17 1/2
    Length: 30 1/4


    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

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    Last edited: Dec 11, 2012

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