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MAJOR DROP! GRAIL!! GORGEOUS, STUNNING British Bespoke Tweed from Mortimer-Leavy, Mayfair, London! O

Discussion in '2011-2017 Classic Menswear' started by tweedydon, Feb 2, 2013.

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  1. tweedydon

    tweedydon Senior member

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    EXQUISITE BESPOKE AND QUINTESSENTIALLY BRITISH TWEED

    Built by Mortimer-Leavy of Old Bond Street and Mayfair in 1972

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    EXCELLENT CONDITION!

    NB: My apologies for the orientation of these pictures--photobucket is behaving weirdly!​


    This is absolutely exquisite!!! It's difficult to know where to begin describing this beauty, so I'll just start with the colourway, which is gorgeous, and utterly British! Cut from a beautiful brown herringbone, this exquisite jacket has subtle windowpaning, with the vertical stripes in perfect shades of burnt orange and mustard, and the horizontal stripes in berry red and slate grey. The colouring is absolutely fantastic--my pictures do the natural elegant countryside beauty of this jacket absolutely no justice at all.

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    The tweed itself is beautiful and stout; I suspect that this is one of the better, heavier tweeds from Holland & Sherry, but I have no confirming evidence for this. It's exactly the heft that you would need in a jacket like this--sturdy, but without the slightly uncouth nature that the heavier Harris tweeds would have--this is most certainly several cuts above that cloth. Think of a more refined Keeper's Tweed, but without the cotton content and in a far, far more beautiful patterning and colourway that Keepers never achieves.

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    Naturally, this jacket features a fully functional ticket pocket, which is offset from the main pocket for depth as well as style. All of the exterior pockets have lapped and reinforced top seams, and all are slanted, with elegantly curved flaps, rather than the more usual rectangles.

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    The attention to detail continues even under the flaps, with the pocket openings elegantly curved; if you've never had curved pockets before, you won't realize how much this assists in getting things in and out of them--that extra 1/8" dept in the middle makes a world of difference and eliminates the "catching' on the interior pocket lip that you are probably so used to you don't notice.

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    The collar roll is beautiful, curling just at the point it should at the top third button; the lapels are beautifully cut and styled; Mortimer and Leavy was not a house to succumb to 1970s fads about collars, nor were its clients. The undercollar lining is, like much of the jacket, handsewn, and ensured that this collar has kept its shape faithfully for the last four decades.

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    Naturally, the pattern matching on the shoulders and the symmetry of the back have been handled with care and attention.

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    This jacket is, of course, fully canvassed and fully lined. It features single button cuffs and a single vent.
    It was made by Mortimer-Leavy, of Old Bond Street, London--right in the heart of Mayfair, next to Belgravia (which is largely residential) THE most upper-class haven in the city.... and according to my Godmother's husband (formerly an officer of the Household Cavalry, now retired) the place where "real chaps got things made"... including jackets like this. (His verdict on M-L was "Good. Solid." which is as close to flamboyant praise as he gets!) Note the old-fashioned telephone number featuring the name of the Exchange ("Mayfair", of course), to be spoken in the clipped tones of Battle of Britain fighter pilots and City-based aristocrats! This jacket was made in 1972.... which was a shock, as I expected it to be only a few years old, judging by the classic style and excellent condition.

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    Naturally, it is fully lined.


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    Does it have flaws? There is some very, very minor start of fraying of the lining under the arms and at the top of the lining in the collar. That's it. And if you can't see this, it's because it really is tiny, and just starting. These are easy, easy fixes, and could wait a while without concern--even a decent dry-cleaner tailor could fix these. But that's it. Otherwise, this jacket is in absolutely SUPERB condition--my wife was shocked when she heard it was over 40 years old! No museum piece, this is to be worn and enjoyed and looked after, and it's good for the next 40 years.

    Oh, yes--this is also a very desirable size!

    Measurements:

    Chest: 21 1/2
    Waist: 20 3/4
    Sleeve: 23 1/2 (+1 3/4") (Easily lengthened--no surgeon's cuffs)
    Shoulder: 17 3/4
    Length: 31 1/2​

    Asking just $165 > 125 > 110 > 95, or lower offer, boxed, shipped, and insured in the CONUS. Lower offers are very welcome! International inquiries are also welcome, with Priority Tracked Shipping at cost.

    Please PM with interest and offers!
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2013
  2. Derek92

    Derek92 Senior member

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    Where do you find these things and why are they never in my size???
     
  3. tweedydon

    tweedydon Senior member

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    I'm lucky enough to have extensive Ivy alumni connections on both sides of the Pond......

    ....and it's all a big conspiracy against you! ;)
     
  4. OzzyJones

    OzzyJones Senior member

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    This is stunning even though besmirching Harris tweed gets my Scottish blood up! I really wish I could drop 5" off my chest an I'm incredulous to how it still hasn't sold
     
  5. tweedydon

    tweedydon Senior member

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