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Mainstream designer quality

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by tiger02, Dec 4, 2004.

  1. tiger02

    tiger02 Militarist

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    For those of us who don't live within shouting distance of a high-end retailer, I'd be curious to know which 'mainstream' designers use details normally reserved by the finest tailors.  From reading around the board so far I've gathered that Jil Sander and Helmut Lang will at least partially canvass some suits, plus obviously RLPL.  I'm still not clear though on Baldessarini (sp?), Armani Black Lable, and pretty much every one else out there.  It would also be interesting to find out who outsources to whom--EG making RLPL shoes for example.  If all this is readily available then I apologize, but nothing has turned up in my searches.

    Oh, and I've learned enough from this board to know that just about nothing is worth the *retail* money.  I'm talking more $300 for a Lang suit on ebay, for example.

    Tom
     


  2. colin617

    colin617 Member

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    in my experience, Alexander McQueen
     


  3. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Stylish Dinosaur

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    Baldessarini is canvassed, I believe Armani Classico is, not sure about Black Label though (they are made by Vestamenta)
     


  4. bryce330

    bryce330 Senior Member

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    I don't think there is much if anything in the clothing world that is "worth the money," designer or otherwise.

    However, Baldessarini suits are generally considered excellent quality, on the level of RLPL.

    I think the partially canvassed Jil Sander suits might only be the pre-Prada ones.

    Some Paul Smith suits are also partially canvassed.
     


  5. amirrorcrackd

    amirrorcrackd Senior Member

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    Which Paul Smith's are at least partially canvassed? I assume the London line, is that right?

    Thanks,

    Dan
     


  6. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Dior Homme is famous for its construction details, although they are different from those in traditional menswear. And Martin Margiela definitely pays a lot of attention to construction, though again, not in the same manner of traditional tailors. Instead of emphasizing handstitching (although some artisinal "0" pieces seem to feature this) he is more concerned with "where" the stitching should go on a pair of trousers, for example.

    As I've stated earlier, though, traditional tailoring techniques are suited to a particularly artisanal look - this is not what all designers aspire too (although it is particularly trendy right now.)

    If you really want handiwork, get a handstitched tshirt from Project Alabama (retail starts at around $350). Hand laundered fabrics, hand cut, and details entirely handstitched. A lot of work. But will this appeal to the Attolini lover? Probably not. Just to show you that artisanship is not just the province of traditional menswear...
     


  7. matadorpoeta

    matadorpoeta Distinguished Member

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    i like the gucci suits i've seen. excellent fabrics and construction. worth it at discount.
     


  8. LabelKing

    LabelKing Stylish Dinosaur

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    Ann Demeulemeester is quite lovely as well.
     


  9. Kaga

    Kaga Senior Member

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    I don't think so. Maybe his "Collection" Suits, but Paul Smith London appears to be aimed at a medium price point (in terms of expensive designer wear) and is probably fused.

    Some notes:
    IMMSMC, no designers actually make clothing (v. broad generalization,but bear with me). They subcontract it to real makers, whether that's a factory or a virtuoso artisan workshop. You generally pay a premium over what a garment from the subcontractor itself would cost for the design the designer inserts. Example: paying $3000 to $6000 for a suit from Hermes or RLPL when a suit from Belvest or SaintAndrews (their respective suitmakers) might cost$2K. But if the designer inserts some nice styling details or chooses some interesting, hard-to-find fabrics, perhaps it is worth it to you. Cases in point include RLPL's 30s-fetishistic detailing or Hermes' horse-blanket jackets.

    Corollary: as makers (as opposed to designers, viz.: Ballantyne vs. Lucien Pellat-Finet, Mackintosh vs. Hermes) realize that designers get a premium on sharp design elements, they have hired designers to design in-house for them to make their designs more contemporary.
     


  10. tiger02

    tiger02 Militarist

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    Thanks for the responses, all. I hadn't heard of Demeul...Demeule...De not gonna work here anymore, that's for sure. before but her stuff looks intriguing. Sounds maybe Dutch?

    Tom
     


  11. Zubberah

    Zubberah Senior Member

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    The original Gianni Versace Couture line is fully canvassed and made by Inco (owned by Zegna). Zegna also make Versace's tuxedo's.

    HOWEVER, since Donatella has taken over (destroyed?) and changed the label to "Versace", the suits are now predominantly fused (made by Alias, a 100%-owned Versace subsidiary). Around 25% are still made by Inco/Zegna and are fully canvassed.

    Either way, from an aesthetic and stylistic point-of-view, stunningly beautiful suits.
     


  12. Roy

    Roy Distinguished Member

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    She's Belgian I think.
     


  13. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Ann Demeulemeester - one of the original Antwerp Six, one of the less commercial (I think that Walter Beren**** (can't pronounce or write his name - of W&LT fame, is the most far out).
     


  14. LabelKing

    LabelKing Stylish Dinosaur

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    Walter van Beirendonck.

    Also there is Haider Ackermann. Carol Christian Poell can be rather unwearable.
     


  15. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Carol Christian Poell. I agree. Some interesting pieces, but some completely unwearable. Remember the turtleneck that was meant to be worn with a tie from about 2000? And that wasn't even the strangest piece in that collection.
     


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