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Maffeis m-t-m shirt

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Looking to improve, May 3, 2004.

  1. Looking to improve

    Looking to improve Senior Member

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    Promises, promises When I planned to order a Maffeis m-t-m shirt, I promised to post about it when it arrived. It has, so here goes. Let me first remark that I don't have a digital camera, so I can't post any pictures. Please bear with my attempts to provide as accurate a description as I can. A thousand words A picture would say a thousand words here, but just to give you an idea: The shirt is striped: one mm white, one mm sky blue, three mm sky blue with eight dark blue pinstripes, and one mm sky blue. Then the pattern starts again. The stripes go top to bottom on the body of the shirt and the sleeves, and horizontally around the cuffs and collar, so nothing out of the ordinary there. It has a high, spread collar, front placket, and french cuffs. The cuffs are rounded off slightly at their outside top corner. No split yoke at the back and also no back pleats or darts. The quality The quality of the shirt is, for what I know about it, better than the Thomas Pink shirts I own. I judge the quality by the following features: - single needle seams; - what I think are machine made buttonholes; - the attachment of the (thick) m.o.p. buttons with a crows feet stitch (I did ask for that), I believe this isn't possible with a machine. (Please correct me if I'm wrong here.); - the pattern at the gauntlet is matched to the pattern of the sleeve itself; - there aren't any pleats at the point where the cuff attaches to the sleeve, but the sleeve is evenly 'wrinkeled' to take in the excess fabric; - the pattern isn't exactly matched between the yoke and the sleeve at the shoulder, but that is because here too, the sleeve is 'wrinkeled' where it attaches to the yoke; - the yoke isn't split, although I hear that even about Borelli's; - the rather narrow armholes; and - that funny horizontal buttonhole down there on the front placket. The 'look and feel' Wow, is this tight. I more or less accepted a 'slim' fit, with the proviso that it wouldn't create tension around the buttons and/or my t-shirt would show through a gap between two buttons. There is some tension. I may be fussy, but I have the distinct impression that I can see tension lines 'fanning out' from under my arms and running over my chest, so it's back to the drawing board in that respect. I realise I should also get used to a bit tighter fit, but a bit more 'breathing space' will be nice. That being said, I cannot but admit that the slimmer outline looks good in the mirror. So in that respect it's a marked improvement compared to the Pink shirts. If there's to be another shirt however, it will not be as tight as this one. When fitting the shirt I also discovered that the cuffs were very tight. I couldn't get it comfortable around my wrist and watch. Now I have wrists that are almost paperthin, so that was a surprise. The salesman, the same one who measured me, also noted this and faxed off a request for wider fitting cuffs. I wasn't measured around the wrists when I ordered the shirt, and I think the routine doesn't specify measuring around the wrists. In retrospect, it strikes me as strange. We'll see what happens when the replacement cuffs arrive. Great expectations I ordered the shirt with a high collar of about two inches and a spread that is wider than Pink's 'regular' spread. I was a bit anxious about those options, especially the height, since I have a pronounced adam's apple, but there isn't any problem with either. I must say I'm very content with the outcome there. I'm not really comfortable with the sleeve length. I keep tugging at them and am in constant doubt whether or not they are to short. To complicate matters, I'm also not sure if the sleeves of my suitjackets aren't just that little bit too long... Or both. Sleeve length was a major consideration for me to order a m-t-m shirt, and the nagging doubt spoils some of the enjoyment. The sleeve length was measured to a bone that protrudes out of my wrist when I had my arm bent at the elbow at a 90 degree angle. And when I bend my arm in the same way, that's where the sleeves end. I'd like my sleeves to end just a bit further, ending at the start of my hand, but not falling over my hand. I am considering taking the shirt back and to have longer sleeves set in, just to have peace of mind if nothing else. Seconds anyone? I have mixed feelings about the success of this first endeavour. I think it's the best made shirt I have and the looks of the slimmer fit are really nice. Yet I'm not entirely happy because I think it fits too tight and I have my doubt's about the sleeve length. I may have had too great expectations, but I can't help feeling a tiny bit disappointed. I may order a second shirt depending on the way the adjustments I want are handeled (think longer sleeves here). If I can provide any further clarification you would like/need, please let me know and I'll try to do the best I can. I know that pictures would be helpful, but as I mentioned earlier, I don't have a digital camera... MtB
     


  2. shoefan

    shoefan Senior Member

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    Are the sleeves hand-sewn into the yoke? Given the neapolitan-style sleeve head that you describe, it sounds as if the answer would be yes, but I would be interested to know for sure.
     


  3. Looking to improve

    Looking to improve Senior Member

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    Actually, I think they're not hand-sewn into the yoke. When I talked to the salesman when I ordered the shirts he indicated that I could have the shirt entirely hand-sewn, albeit at a considerable premium. I elected to have the shirt not hand-sewn, so most likely not. Also, as far as I can determine, the stitching is regular, where I would expect hand-sewn stitching to be irregular. I'll have a closer look when I get home this evening and let you know tomorrow.
     


  4. T4phage

    T4phage Distinguished Member

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    Sorry to hear that your first attempt at mtm was not perfect, but realise that it is rare that a first attempt will be perfect. I'm sure that your next orders with further refinements from you will be much much better. As for the tightness across the chest, is there any possibilities that you may have gained a bit of weight during the holidays [​IMG] (you know, all the good food around). When I get measured by my shirtmakers, I am always told to take a breath to get the maximum (normal) chest expansion. Did they do this at Oger's? Is it possible that the tightness of the cuff is preventing the sleeve from falling down to it's proper length?
     


  5. Looking to improve

    Looking to improve Senior Member

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    Shoefan: I had a closer look at the attachment of the sleeve to the yoke. Judging by the regularity of the stitching, I think the sleeve was not hand-sewn onto the yoke. T4phage: All quotes are yours.
    I didn't expect perfection, heavens no. I realise that even at the umpteenth m-t-m shirt perfection will not be achieved. But I did expect something better. Maybe I expected too much. On the other hand, the same guy who measured me for this shirt also measured me for my m-t-m suits. I hadn't as many remarks about the fit of those suits (even the first.) as I have about my shirt. *Edited for consistency in the reference in the last sentence and I made a small addition*
    I sometimes -jokingly- call myself the 'human xylophone'. Have I gained weight? I wish. Â [​IMG] It may just be that I'm not used to such a tight fit, and as I said, the slimmer line of the shirt looks nice. That being said, an extra two centimetres around the chest would be nice. I hope it would give me just that more space, and still maintain the silhouette of the shirt.
    No, they didn't. I think I got in a halfhearted attempt at breathing in, but nothing 'substantial'. So maybe there is part of my problem. Thanks.
    It may be, but I doubt it. I have really thin and flat wrists, so the tightness should then just prevent the left cuff to end at the right spot. Left, because that's where my watch is. I have the same problem on the right though, so I think that's not it. Nevertheless it may well be, and I'll know when the larger cuffs are attatched. The reason I think my sleeves are too short though, is that when I bend my arm the cuff creeps away from where my hand starts to my wrist. I can't blame it, because that's the point to where it was measured. I would like the cuff to stay put when I move or bend my arm, so I think a bit more length in the sleeves is a requirement for any next shirt. I will say this. The whole episode has been very useful for me. I now know where I expect and want the sleeves of my shirts and suits to end and that I would like at least some 'breathing space' around the chest of my shirts. That has to be worth something. MtB
     


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