Made to measure vs ready to wear casual blazer

[Dan Dynamic]

Greetings,

I recently bought a ready to wear blazer à la:

I specifically looked for a blazer that leaned towards the casual side so not a tailored sports jacket or the like. My goal is to look like this:

As can be seen the blazer is quite casual, like the one I bought. However, the area around my shoulders and arms are usually very tight. In the attached photos the shoulder seam appears to sit where it should be, but my shoulders still do not fit. Hence I might try out made to measure.

Now, I have never actually tried made to measure for sports jackets/blazers. Have any one got experience with going the made to measure route for casually fitting blazers as opposed to tailored sports jackets? I quite like the look of the ready to wear casual blazers but they seldom fit my shoulder girdle and arms.

 

[breakaway01]

One important reason why your blue jacket looks so casual is that it has been garment washed (notice the generally faded color, especially along the seams). This is not something that is typically available from small custom makers AFAIK -- would have to be made in a larger factory capable of garment washing, and even then you'd have to find out whether this service would be available for a single item. If you had this custom-made without garment washing, it wouldn't look nearly as casual.

The blue jacket also looks quite short in the body for you, even though the sleeve length is about right. I think for this look you're still better off trying to find a RTW jacket that fits you better, although it will take some trial and error to find the right shape for your body.

The brown suit might not be garment-washed but it has a lot of details in terms of pocket style, lapel shape, and stitching that might be hard for most MTO/MTM makers to do. Luxire might be able to do something like this if you provide photos.

 

[Dan Dynamic]

One important reason why your blue jacket looks so casual is that it has been garment washed (notice the generally faded color, especially along the seams). This is not something that is typically available from small custom makers AFAIK -- would have to be made in a larger factory capable of garment washing, and even then you'd have to find out whether this service would be available for a single item. If you had this custom-made without garment washing, it wouldn't look nearly as casual.

The blue jacket also looks quite short in the body for you, even though the sleeve length is about right. I think for this look you're still better off trying to find a RTW jacket that fits you better, although it will take some trial and error to find the right shape for your body.

The brown suit might not be garment-washed but it has a lot of details in terms of pocket style, lapel shape, and stitching that might be hard for most MTO/MTM makers to do. Luxire might be able to do something like this if you provide photos.

Much appreciated. I never realized it was garment washed. I will probably go the MTM route before sending a garment to Luxire.

Yeah, the blazer is a bit short for sure. I guess it is a modern look Gant is going after. I suppose I have to keep looking for new blazers. I just recently ordered a comfort jacket by Uniqlo. I hope it fits. Will probably go MTM regardless and opt for an unconstructed sports coat akin to those of the Canali KEI line.

 

[mak1277]

Why not check out Spier & Mackay for an unstructured cotton sport coat? I think it will look more like a sport coat (like the brown example) and less like a casual chore coat (which is what I see when I look at what you bought).

https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/navy-a196336-nsc-01-ss22

 

[Dan Dynamic]

Why not check out Spier & Mackay for an unstructured cotton sport coat? I think it will look more like a sport coat (like the brown example) and less like a casual chore coat (which is what I see when I look at what you bought).

https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/navy-a196336-nsc-01-ss22

Huh, it actually does look like a chore jacket 🤔 Nevertheless, I have already decided to return the blazer. The one you posted looks nice. Don't know about shipping to Sweden though, would probably buy it otherwise since I have heard good things about Spier & Mackay.

 

[Leiker]

Do you think the shoulders are too tight, too loose, or something else?

 

[Dan Dynamic]

Do you think the shoulders are too tight, too loose, or something else?

Way too tight! Especially around the front delts and side delts.

 

[Leiker]

Way too tight! Especially around the front delts and side delts.

Got you, yes it does look too small overall

 

[Mr Tickle]

One important reason why your blue jacket looks so casual is that it has been garment washed (notice the generally faded color, especially along the seams). This is not something that is typically available from small custom makers AFAIK -- would have to be made in a larger factory capable of garment washing, and even then you'd have to find out whether this service would be available for a single item. If you had this custom-made without garment washing, it wouldn't look nearly as casual.

The blue jacket also looks quite short in the body for you, even though the sleeve length is about right. I think for this look you're still better off trying to find a RTW jacket that fits you better, although it will take some trial and error to find the right shape for your body.

The brown suit might not be garment-washed but it has a lot of details in terms of pocket style, lapel shape, and stitching that might be hard for most MTO/MTM makers to do. Luxire might be able to do something like this if you provide photos.

So what exactly is meant by the term garment washed? I see it often used to describe items of clothing like this. But, I mean ... obviously it's a "garment". So how is it different from just saying it is "washed"? Or indeed how is the process different than if I was to simply buy this jacket before it has been garment washed and then wash it myself at home?

 

[breakaway01]

So what exactly is meant by the term garment washed? I see it often used to describe items of clothing like this. But, I mean ... obviously it's a "garment". So how is it different from just saying it is "washed"? Or indeed how is the process different than if I was to simply buy this jacket before it has been garment washed and then wash it myself at home?

my understanding is that “garment washing” refers to a number of different processes after a garment has been made. There can be “dry washing”e.g. abrading or whispering (denim) and there can be various “wet washing” processes, not just with water but with various chemicals or enzymes to create certain effects. Washing yourself at home will eventually fade cotton but it probably will be difficult to create this effect at home.

 

[SteveMeier]

Greetings,

I recently bought a ready to wear blazer à la:

View attachment 1816027 View attachment 1816030

View attachment 1816033 View attachment 1816034

I specifically looked for a blazer that leaned towards the casual side so not a tailored sports jacket or the like. My goal is to look like this:

View attachment 1816036

As can be seen the blazer is quite casual, like the one I bought. However, the area around my shoulders and arms are usually very tight. In the attached photos the shoulder seam appears to sit where it should be, but my shoulders still do not fit. Hence I might try out made to measure.

Now, I have never actually tried made to measure for sports jackets/blazers. Have any one got experience with going the made to measure route for casually fitting blazers as opposed to tailored sports jackets? I quite like the look of the ready to wear casual blazers but they seldom fit my shoulder girdle and arms.

Nice, I love it.

 

[DapperPhilly]

Huh, it actually does look like a chore jacket 🤔 Nevertheless, I have already decided to return the blazer. The one you posted looks nice. Don't know about shipping to Sweden though, would probably buy it otherwise since I have heard good things about Spier & Mackay.

There are quite a few on styleforum who are what I loosely term S&M fanboys. That said I have gotten some very nice SC's (one MTO DB), Suits, shirts both OTR and MTO, and trousers from them.
I also have many other (mostly Italian) label OTR SC's, suits, shirts, pants, etc.. But if you can nail your fit with S&M I do not think you can beat the bang for the buck.
Hmm, am I an S&M fanboy after all?

 

[DapperPhilly]

my understanding is that “garment washing” refers to a number of different processes after a garment has been made. There can be “dry washing”e.g. abrading or whispering (denim) and there can be various “wet washing” processes, not just with water but with various chemicals or enzymes to create certain effects. Washing yourself at home will eventually fade cotton but it probably will be difficult to create this effect at home.

"whispering" Whoever came up with that should be shot.

 

[breakaway01]

"whispering" Whoever came up with that should be shot.

haha I think I meant "whiskering" but it got autocorrected

 

[DapperPhilly]

haha I think I meant "whiskering" but it got autocorrected

I just realize auto correct got me as well. "Whiskering" is a dreadful look.