Made to Measure Tux - Help!

[SVC]

I've decided to go for an Indochino tux as well in anticipation of some holiday season galas. (I've had good results with them so far, so I'm not terribly worried about measurements and such). Please let me know your thoughts regarding my customizations below. Thanks so much! Indochino Dinner Jacket Tuxedo (http://www.indochino.com/product/The..._Jacket_Tuxedo) - Peak lapel (or should I do notch, even though it's less "proper"? - No vent (or... dual?) - Two buttons - Black lining - No pocket flaps - Natural shoulders and higher arm holes - Functional boutonniere - Pants (no pleats) - No belt loops - Suspender buttons Turndown Collar Tuxedo Shirt http://www.indochino.com/product/Sta..._%28Studded%29 - Plain front (no pleats / bib) - Wide-spread Point Big collar (medium spread collar) - French cuffs (barrel) - No monogram I'm 25 years old and most of the events I'll be going to aren't black-tie required, but rather just black-tie suggested. As a result, I'm not trying to necessarily follow every single rule to a T. However, I want to make sure that I'm not mixing and matching details incorrectly, especially as it relates to lapel, vents, and buttons. I'd appreciate any thoughts.

 

[TheDandy]

Originally Posted by SVC

I've decided to go for an Indochino tux as well in anticipation of some holiday season galas. (I've had good results with them so far, so I'm not terribly worried about measurements and such). Please let me know your thoughts regarding my customizations below. Thanks so much!

Indochino Dinner Jacket Tuxedo (http://www.indochino.com/product/The..._Jacket_Tuxedo)
- Peak lapel (or should I do notch, even though it's less "proper"?
- No vent (or... dual?)
- Two buttons
- Black lining
- No pocket flaps
- Natural shoulders and higher arm holes
- Functional boutonniere

- Pants (no pleats)
- No belt loops
- Suspender buttons


Turndown Collar Tuxedo Shirt http://www.indochino.com/product/Sta..._%28Studded%29
- Wide-spread Point Big collar (medium spread collar)
- French cuffs (barrel)
- No monogram

I'm 25 years old and most of the events I'll be going to aren't black-tie required, but rather just black-tie suggested. As a result, I'm not trying to necessarily follow every single rule to a T. However, I want to make sure that I'm not mixing and matching details incorrectly, especially as it relates to lapel, vents, and buttons. I'd appreciate any thoughts.
The only thing that come to my mind is... Are you sure you are going to order this tux from an online MTM.... How many tuxedos are you planning to buy in your life? This is my only opinion but let say that you have just a slighty of interest in your appearance and the judgement that others have on you just go to an decent tailor in your city and then wear it proudly... At 25 a world of opportunities could arise at anytime...

 

[SVC]

Originally Posted by TheDandy

The only thing that come to my mind is... Are you sure you are going to order this tux from an online MTM....
How many tuxedos are you planning to buy in your life?

This is my only opinion but let say that you have just a slighty of interest in your appearance and the judgement that others have on you just go to an decent tailor in your city and then wear it proudly... At 25 a world of opportunities could arise at anytime...

Thanks for the thoughts. Let's just say I've been pleasantly surprised by Indochino (and have also had great experiences with TaT). Perhaps I have measurements that fit well into the standard cuts of these two online MTM guys, but I've had very few complaints about product or service from these two.

Any thoughts you have regarding details would be appreciated, though!

 

[Holdfast]

Originally Posted by SVC

Please let me know your thoughts regarding my customizations below.
I'd suggest keeping the peak lapels (shawl is fine too if you prefer that), but reducing the buttons down to just one. Number of vents is personal preference: unvented is sleeker, but double vents is more comfortable. If you wear a waistcoat rather than a cummerbund (and so can easily access your waistband) you might want to consider adding side-fasteners on the trousers as well, so you can let them out a bit to compensate for a larger-than-average meal... the same thought probably applies to getting a double/linked button for the front of the jacket rather than a normal one if possible. I don't know what sort of options you get with online MTM, but I generally prefer covered buttons with DJs rather than plain ones, and grosgrain lapels rather than satin. Make sure to specify that they add the stripe down outside leg seam of the trousers if that's not automatically done by them. I can't think of anything else, and if you're happy with the product you get with the company you use, I think you should get a decent enough DJ out of them to last many events. I'm waiting on a new MTM tux to be finished too, though from a bricks & mortar tailor. Decided to get a midnight-navy DB (already have a RTW SB peak lapel black one, but figured it was time to get something that fit a little better, plus it'll be nice to have a choice... maybe use DB for winter events, SB for summer...). Good luck!

 

[SVC]

Originally Posted by Holdfast

I'd suggest keeping the peak lapels (shawl is fine too if you prefer that), but reducing the buttons down to just one. Number of vents is personal preference: unvented is sleeker, but double vents is more comfortable. If you wear a waistcoat rather than a cummerbund (and so can easily access your waistband) you might want to consider adding side-fasteners on the trousers as well, so you can let them out a bit to compensate for a larger-than-average meal... the same thought probably applies to getting a double/linked button for the front of the jacket rather than a normal one if possible.

I don't know what sort of options you get with online MTM, but I generally prefer covered buttons with DJs rather than plain ones, and grosgrain lapels rather than satin. Make sure to specify that they add the stripe down outside leg seam of the trousers if that's not automatically done by them.

I can't think of anything else, and if you're happy with the product you get with the company you use, I think you should get a decent enough DJ out of them to last many events.

I'm waiting on a new MTM tux to be finished too, though from a bricks & mortar tailor. Decided to get a midnight-navy DB (already have a RTW SB peak lapel black one, but figured it was time to get something that fit a little better, plus it'll be nice to have a choice... maybe use DB for winter events, SB for summer...).

Good luck!

Thanks, Holdfast. I'll do one button instead of 2 and make sure to add side tabs. Why grosgrain instead of satin, by the way?

Also, I see that many traditional retailers (Brooks included) sell tuxedos with flapped pockets, but I've read that besom pockets are more appropriate? Any thoughts?

 

[random-adam]

When it comes to details, it's hard to argue with this.

I'd stick with that for your first tuxedo.

 

[SVC]

Originally Posted by random-adam

When it comes to details, it's hard to argue with this.

I'd stick with that for your first tuxedo.

random-adam, i actually did read through that link earlier today. pretty amazing aggregation of information, actually. thanks for the heads up!

 

[Holdfast]

Originally Posted by SVC

Thanks, Holdfast. I'll do one button instead of 2 and make sure to add side tabs. Why grosgrain instead of satin, by the way?
Personal preference really; there's so much artificial light around in most settings that it tends to reflect off satin and make it looks shiny, whereas the duller grosgrain absorbs it more. Makes a difference, esp. in any flash photos. That reminds me: go for a barathea weave for the fabric; it's traditional, but more than that is functional in that it also has a somewhat matte finish (at least, more so than a flatter weave) which absorbs rather than reflects light.

Also, I see that many traditional retailers (Brooks included) sell tuxedos with flapped pockets, but I've read that besom pockets are more appropriate? Any thoughts?

No flaps is more traditional, but making all jackets flapped is probably easier for Brooks in terms of economy of scale of production. No flaps means pockets do risk visual sagging over time, but if you don't use the outer pockets all that much (I happen to rarely use them, preferring the internal pockets for most things) it's not an issue. Just remembered - I used to have a very dark purple velvet Versace suit (yeah baby, yeah!) that I wore as a fun tux sometimes to less formal (and more raucous) black tie events... that had unflapped pockets and the open pocket snagged on the side of a bar and ripped the pocket open a little. I didn't mind on that suit. It was easily mended and in any case that suit was just a fun little number (and at other times, it got anointed with various other substances, alcoholic and otherwise, though miraculously they all came out with dry-cleaning), but something to be careful with on a more formal tux if you happen to get a little worse for wear during the course of the evening...

 

[SVC]

Haha, thanks for the story.

I'd never thought of that element of flap vs. no flap, but like you, I use external pockets very little, so I think I'll go with the traditional route, especially since I'm going a little more modern with the plain front shirt.

A one-button, black peaked-lapel DJ with besom pockets should help "balance" my shirt rule-breaking, I think.

 

[SVC]

P.S. Here are a few additional details from "Angie" at Indochino: "All of our tuxedos come with covered buttons, satin lapels and have the satin stripe down the pants legs."

 

[markdc]

Originally Posted by Holdfast

Number of vents is personal preference: unvented is sleeker, but double vents is more comfortable.
!

Great thread! Very helpful. Question--is it possible to sit down in a chair with an unvented tux, or do you have to take the jacket off and put it on your chair before you sit down? All of the tuxes I've worn in the past have been dual-vented, if I recall correctly.

 

[random-adam]

On sagging besom pockets -- just leave 'em stitched up. It's not like you need to use the pockets anyway, right?

 

[SVC]

Originally Posted by random-adam

On sagging besom pockets -- just leave 'em stitched up. It's not like you need to use the pockets anyway, right?

Good point. Though I'm not sure it'd be a huge problem either way...

 

[Holdfast]

Originally Posted by markdc

Great thread! Very helpful. Question--is it possible to sit down in a chair with an unvented tux, or do you have to take the jacket off and put it on your chair before you sit down? All of the tuxes I've worn in the past have been dual-vented, if I recall correctly.

Yeah, it's perfectly possible to sit down in an unvented tux, but you need to undo the button for it to be comfortable and not bunch up a bit. But I almost always undo the buttons when sitting down regardless of jacket vent configuration, so it's neither here nor there to me.

 

[CousinDonuts]

@SVC - I just recently received my Indochino tux back from the tailor (cuff adjustments) and am looking forward to the first wearing this weekend. I went with a one button peak lapel with double vents. I did not get flaps on the pockets, but looking at Google tux pictures I'd say you're 50-50, so it's personal preference.

2 items to note:
1) I chose the natural shoulder. There is very very little padding, as you would expect, which makes the shoulder pretty flimsy if you're carrying the jacket. Now given that you will have your jacket on almost all of the time, this probably isn't a big deal. However, to me black tie means a little more structure and if I did it again I'd get the standard shoulder. Again, personal call here.

2) The one-button comes with a deep gorge. The button sits right at my belly button. If you want a higher gorge (above your bellybutton) then go with 2button.

As far as those questioning you about the quality, I guess I'd respond with a question...how often are you wearing the tux, and who will be at the event with you? If you attend 1-3 functions a year (as I do) and you're with a conservative crowd, not in a big city, then you will be just fine. You'll look better than 98% of the people simply because it fits properly. Now if you're canoodling with Hollywood starlets, investment bankers, or other ultra wealthy individuals, you may want to reconsider and go for a higher-tier brand.

Just my 2 cents...