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Mad men vs. the trendy modern suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by CrimsonSox, Sep 21, 2013.

  1. CrimsonSox

    CrimsonSox Senior member

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    What looks better on Don Draper?

    A:

    [​IMG]

    B:

    [​IMG]

    It's hard to see the excesses of our own time, until our vision is corrected by a knowledge of history. There are two grey suits here, but only one is tasteful. The other is too short. Like this:

    [​IMG]

    I know what suit I'd wear:

    [​IMG]

    Just thinking about that short jacket makes me reach for a drink.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  2. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    Can't wait for this shrink-wrapped button-popping bullshit to be relegated to history.
     
    2 people like this.
  3. MikeDT

    MikeDT Senior member

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    +1

    I detest all this skinny, short and tight nonsense as well. :fu: Apparel manufacturers must like it though, they can use less material while still charging the same price.

    Might be OK for an emaciated teenager or something, not so good on the older man who's become a bit more rounded. It's not a good look. At the moment I tend to avoid tailored stuff(except for shirts and pants), because that's all it seems to be in RTW, skinny and cropped, and don't particularly wish to look like a frankfurter sausage. :embar:
    [​IMG]

    I think bring back the 1970s or 1990s, when they've seemed to be much more generous with the fabric and cut.
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2013
  4. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    I couldn't agree more. But it's everywhere in the RTW world. People who wear them look like they put their suits through a washer and dryer and shrank them by a couple of sizes.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. MikeDT

    MikeDT Senior member

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    I see plenty of nice looking well fitted suits and jackets in CM, but I think many can't really afford or have access to a good bespoke tailor, or they just don't care anyway. And so rest of us are wearing the currently fashionable RTW skinny shit, that looks like it's shrunk in the wash. Can't even go for the next size up, because that looks like crap as well.
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2013
  6. mossrockss

    mossrockss Senior member

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    The question is, how can I have a face like don draper?
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. Dempsy444

    Dempsy444 Senior member

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    Don draper has better taste then Jon Hamm that is for sure. Hamm's suits look terrible and what's with the box of cigarettes in the front pocket? I assume that is what it is.
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. MikeDT

    MikeDT Senior member

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    A prop from Mad Men?
     
  9. JackDry

    JackDry Member

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    Agree with everyone above!
    There is "fitted" and then there is the equivalent of skinny jeans most suits are now!

    On a side note: Did anyone see Skyfall? They were some tight suits.
     
  10. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    I haven't seen the film, but I've seen a few still shots, including those to be found on this web-site:

    http://thesuitsofjamesbond.com/?cat=101

    As you could guess, I don't like the new look, for all the reasons already mentioned in this thread. And while I don't like the honey-I-shrunk-the-suit look on anyone, I do think that, all other factors being equal, it looks even worse on older men than on younger men. And Craig is looking noticeably older in these shots than in his first Bond film.

    I do, however, like the Tom Ford tab collar shirt. But I'll cheerfully admit that liking tab collars is a personal idiosyncrasy.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
  11. masernaut

    masernaut Senior member

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    I have noticed that dress quality has been going down in Mad Men. This past season, I couldn't help but notice skinny ties and ill-fitting suits and jackets.
     
  12. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    I've never seen the show. Is it possible that it's trying to reflect differences in style between the year when the first season is supposed to take place and the year when the past season is supposed to take place?

    I only ask because I've read that the show puts some effort into using clothing and props which are true to the period.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
  13. MikeDT

    MikeDT Senior member

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    Budget cuts in the wardrobe department perhaps? TV shows will often decline in quality anyway, the longer they run.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2013
  14. MikeDT

    MikeDT Senior member

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    I read that as well, although this is probably both time consuming and expensive. So now AMC just goes to Topman or something for their wardrobe and costume requirements? Just a guess.
     
  15. MikeDT

    MikeDT Senior member

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    Looking at the 007 suit ballot, Skyfall seemed to be the least popular, and I wouldn't vote for it either. I have seen the movie. Although the jacket lengths in Skyfall seemed to be OK, not like the dude I posted earlier, and what all RTW jackets seem to be like now....barely extending beyond the belt line, and the buttons likely to go popping off at any time. :brick:
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2013
  16. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    While you can definitely criticize skinny suits, this particular thread has to be among the more stupid on this forum. You are essentially framing the question thus:

    What looks better, a professionally shot photograph of an outfit chosen by a team of talented wardrobe stylists, or a candid photograph of the same actor in a different suit, where that actor may or may not have any knowledge about, or interest in, clothing?
     
  17. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    Others can speak for themselves, but that's not at all what I was talking about. I was talking about the trend toward tighter and shorter in suits, starting with off-the-rack suits. Here's me talking about precisely that, from an earlier post in this thread:

    "I couldn't agree more. But it's everywhere in the RTW world. People who wear them look like they put their suits through a washer and dryer and shrank them by a couple of sizes. "

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
    2 people like this.
  18. adamantine

    adamantine Member

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    An honest question: If you aren't fat would this be a problem?
     
  19. CrimsonSox

    CrimsonSox Senior member

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    Hamm is dressing in a way that's emblematic of much of trendy RTW, as Academic put it well. The jackets are excessively short and tight. It's true that it would be futile to make the comparison with Draper if Hamm were dressing in a style that was idiosyncratically bad. The comparison has an important point because it's not idiosyncratic but representative of a larger fashion that many of the posters recognized. Thom Browne, who can hardly be called an amateur dresser, makes the exact same missteps as Hamm:

    [​IMG]

    What makes the comparison between Hamm and Draper even more telling is that Browne and other designers claim to be inspired by Mad Men and the early 1960s look. Brooks Brothers makes clothes for both Browne's Black Fleece Collection and the show. But the comparison demonstrates that Browne and other designers are missing the jacket length, which should be longer and cover the rear. The maker can be the same, the person wearing the clothes can be the same, the inspiration can be the same, but the design makes all the difference. Men who care about clothes and who are buying suits would be well-advised to make sure that the length is appropriate, and it's a lesson well-illustrated by the comparison between Hamm and Draper.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2013
  20. JackDry

    JackDry Member

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    Got to agree with you about the collars!
    They do look good. Tricky finding them in the Uk though.
     

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