• I'm happy to introduce the Styleforum Happy Hour, our brand new podcast featuring lively discussion about menswear and the fashion industry. In the inaugural edition, a discussion of what's going on in retail today. Please check it out on the Journal. All episodes will be also be available soon on your favorite podcast platform.

  • Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 8: Cuir de Russie card case from Equus Leather

    We are very proud to present this year's edition of the Styleforum Holiday Charity Auctions, this year in support of the Ronald McDonald House Charities of Spokane (www.rmhcspokane.org). Each Auction lasts 24 hours. Please follow and bid on all the auctions.

    The 8th auction is for a Cuir de Russie card case from Equus Leather. Please bid often and generously here

    Fok and the Styleforum Team.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Mad Men costumes - discuss

porcelain monkey

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2008
Messages
1,820
Reaction score
23
I know Mad Men style has been discussed at length in other threads, but I find myself wanting to do it in a more focused way, especially on Monday mornings. For example, I noticed in the past two weeks that Roger Sterling has abandoned three piece suits for double breasted. Was this a style trend at the time (1961-2), or is he looking for a more modern look now that he has decided to leave his wife and take up with the hot secretary?

I am very interested in any knowledgeable people's take on the historical accuracy of the clothes. For example, I would expect to see the men begin to abandon their hats soon.

Please discuss.
 

Vintage Gent

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2003
Messages
2,748
Reaction score
29
Originally Posted by porcelain monkey
I know Mad Men style has been discussed at length in other threads, but I find myself wanting to do it in a more focused way, especially on Monday mornings. For example, I noticed in the past two weeks that Roger Sterling has abandoned three piece suits for double breasted. Was this a style trend at the time (1961-2), or is he looking for a more modern look now that he has decided to leave his wife and take up with the hot secretary?

I am very interested in any knowledgeable people's take on the historical accuracy of the clothes. For example, I would expect to see the men begin to abandon their hats soon.

Please discuss.


Actually, a double-breasted would have been quite out of style by the early 1960s. The heyday of the double breasted was from the 1930s to the early-50s. It only lasted as long as it did, more than likely, because of the war. In 1942, the War Production Board made some very draconian decrees about clothing and fashion, all in an effort to conserve fabric for the war effort. While switching from the double-breasted to the single breasted would have made sense as a single-breasted requires less fabric, the board wisely considered that doing so would cause many men to abandon their old double-breasted suits for single-breasted. As a result, it essentially put a halt to changes in men's fashion for the duration of the war.
 

MrDaniels

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2006
Messages
3,663
Reaction score
423
I am sure that the sport coat Don wore last night when he arrived at his FIL's was a true vintage piece, but I really thought the lapel was WEIRD (weekend wear that it was). It was the first garment I have seen on him that seemed like something completely out of character for his character...like something Pete might wear, maybe.
 

PandArts

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2008
Messages
4,509
Reaction score
720
Originally Posted by MrDaniels
I am sure that the sport coat Don wore last night when he arrived at his FIL's was a true vintage piece, but I really thought the lapel was WEIRD (weekend wear that it was). It was the first garment I have seen on him that seemed like something completely out of character for his character...like something Pete might wear, maybe.


Yeah I agree. I really liked it but the single button cuff and the narrow lapel did seem odd for him. But I did like the look overall.
 

RSN125

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2008
Messages
408
Reaction score
1
Originally Posted by MrDaniels
I am sure that the sport coat Don wore last night when he arrived at his FIL's was a true vintage piece, but I really thought the lapel was WEIRD (weekend wear that it was). It was the first garment I have seen on him that seemed like something completely out of character for his character...like something Pete might wear, maybe.

+1. The color and fabric didnt seem like anything else he has ever worn. In general he is super sharp.
 

PandArts

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2008
Messages
4,509
Reaction score
720
It almost seemed like a dinner jacket. Maybe that's all he had with him on such short notice at the Roosevelt?
 

MrDaniels

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2006
Messages
3,663
Reaction score
423
It was the notch that really threw me off...almost as disturbing as Betty's dad copping a feel!
 

porcelain monkey

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2008
Messages
1,820
Reaction score
23
I noticed that jacket, too. Funny notch on the lapel almost made it look like a shawl collar. I took it to be less rather than more formal, but I don't really know.
 

Manton

RINO
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 20, 2002
Messages
41,583
Reaction score
2,855
Originally Posted by Vintage Gent
Actually, a double-breasted would have been quite out of style by the early 1960s. The heyday of the double breasted was from the 1930s to the early-50s. It only lasted as long as it did, more than likely, because of the war. In 1942, the War Production Board made some very draconian decrees about clothing and fashion, all in an effort to conserve fabric for the war effort. While switching from the double-breasted to the single breasted would have made sense as a single-breasted requires less fabric, the board wisely considered that doing so would cause many men to abandon their old double-breasted suits for single-breasted. As a result, it essentially put a halt to changes in men's fashion for the duration of the war.

Actually, as I recall reading, the war restrictions helped increase the popularity of DB. The reason was that the WPB forbade vests, and back then SB suits were "supposed" to be three piece. So one way to keep the gut properly covered was with DB suits.

I posted this in another thread, but I think the Sterling character is meant to be a throwback of sorts, a guy with a lot of suits from another era and one who has a set sense of style and just continues to wear what he has always worn no matter what is in fashion at any given moment.
 

Vintage Gent

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2003
Messages
2,748
Reaction score
29
Originally Posted by Manton
Actually, as I recall reading, the war restrictions helped increase the popularity of DB. The reason was that the WPB forbade vests, and back then SB suits were "supposed" to be three piece. So one way to keep the gut properly covered was with DB suits.

True, but one of the keys was to avoid drastic changes in styling, limiting demand for new clothes. I've owned a couple of suits produced in the wake of the WPB, and both were double breasted. Neither had flaps, and the pants were both pleatless and cuffless.

Originally Posted by Manton
I posted this in another thread, but I think the Sterling character is meant to be a throwback of sorts, a guy with a lot of suits from another era and one who has a set sense of style and just continues to wear what he has always worn no matter what is in fashion at any given moment.

Yeah, that sounds about right to me.
 

gefinzi

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2004
Messages
223
Reaction score
2
I also noticed Don's sportscoat.
There are lots of style differences between season one and season two...it seems to me the producers are emphasing the passage of time rather heavily, perhaps by moving fashions forward faster than the calendar might justify. (An example is the fellow with the African-American girlfriend--he went from looking fairly straight-laced in season one to looking like a proto-hippie in season two). Unfortunately, given history, the wardrobes on Mad Men will get worse, not better, in coming seasons, as the show enters the mid and perhaps late sixties.
 

Shirtmaven

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Dec 26, 2003
Messages
3,469
Reaction score
393
The collars on the shirts are all wrong. it looks as if they just went into brooks brothers and bought whatever was on the shelf. the pinned collar on sterling also seems off.
I realize that the costume budget on this show is not huge. they basically rent from the big costume wearhouses. then they shop lots of other things like the shirts. At least they could make shirts for the principle actors.

i am working on Life on Mars. this is a 70's show. the costumes in this show have been toned down a bit, but still they will hurt your eyes.

Carl
 

Manton

RINO
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 20, 2002
Messages
41,583
Reaction score
2,855
Carl, as noted, I think Sterling's clothes are supposed to look "off" or at least out of step with the times.
 

Parker

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Jan 9, 2005
Messages
8,638
Reaction score
15,255
I'm still catching up with Season One, so I'm trying to skim without spoiling. But, one of my favorite scenes was when Draper gets in on the day of the Lucky Strike presentation and takes out a fresh shirt from his desk drawer full of fresh white shirts. Said so much.
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

How many pairs of shoes do you own?

  • 1 - 4

    Votes: 30 3.6%
  • 5 - 10

    Votes: 143 17.4%
  • 11 - 20

    Votes: 269 32.7%
  • 21 - 30

    Votes: 130 15.8%
  • 31 - 40

    Votes: 70 8.5%
  • 41 - 50

    Votes: 48 5.8%
  • 51 - 60

    Votes: 25 3.0%
  • 61 - 70

    Votes: 22 2.7%
  • 71 - 80

    Votes: 17 2.1%
  • 81 - 90

    Votes: 7 0.9%
  • 91 - 100

    Votes: 9 1.1%
  • 100+

    Votes: 52 6.3%

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
429,098
Messages
9,228,593
Members
193,720
Latest member
swtxzdj
Top