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Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread

FrankCowperwood

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And along these lines, if I'm experiencing sleeves that hang well with my arms at my side but pull a little too far back when I raise my arms to perpendicular, what should I try? Add .25" to the sleeve length? Give myself a little more room in the chest? Something else?
 

New Shoes1

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And along these lines, if I'm experiencing sleeves that hang well with my arms at my side but pull a little too far back when I raise my arms to perpendicular, what should I try? Add .25" to the sleeve length? Give myself a little more room in the chest? Something else?

You can add to the sleeve length to see if that helps. You might want to also consider adjusting the sleeve angle to account for more freedom of movement. I have not tried the sleeve angle adjustment yet, but there was a discussion of it a few pages back.
 

luxire

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So this raises an interesting question for me. I know that Luxire will let us specify certain measurements on shirts in .25" increments (sleeve length is one I think).

It seems to me as if that's a margin of measurement that could easily be overwhelmed by variance in cutting and sewing (which is not to say that Luxire's cutters and tailors do anything other than their best, but that we have to allow for some variance) or by one fabric that may shrink a little more than others when washed.

I mention this because among the various shirts I've ordered so far and that have the same measurements, I've definitely noticed some variation in the fit (mostly the one or the other ends up feeling a little too small/short, and that's likely because I have the measurements set to where there's little margin for the error I'm suggesting here). Nothing tragic, but it is noticeable in a few cases.

Thoughts?

In our cutting and making, we have zero tolerance. We ship the shirts with accurate measurements. If anything is off during making, it is corrected / remade before being shipped.

What we are unable to accurately account for is shrinkage. Even though we wash and dry the fabric before cutting, we do see that fabrics can shrink marginally. If the shrinkage is reported to be more than marginal, we add another wash cycle for the fabric.

Also, some fabrics tend to feel different than the others. Due to fabric thickness, smoothness, weight and weave, even if the measurements are exactly the same, they can sometimes feel very different on the body.
 

variancelog

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It is true that there are many variables in how clothes will fit. This is one of the reasons why it can be a perilous path trying to get your fit "dialed in". Each person needs to find their own balance and call it a day at some point. That's how I look at it anyway, as one who has obsessed over these points excessively (probably even for a styleforum member). I've changed my pattern so many times and each time it always seems like it could be better. My name is Variance and I am a shirtfitoholic.
 

FrankCowperwood

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You can add to the sleeve length to see if that helps.  You might want to also consider adjusting the sleeve angle to account for more freedom of movement.  I have not tried the sleeve angle adjustment yet, but there was a discussion of it a few pages back.


Thanks. I read that discussion with interest. I wonder if it might be a complex enough adjustment that it would have a high probability of leading to an unanticipated result.

I'll probably try a shirt with a fractionally longer sleeve. Which gets back to my question about .25". I wonder if that will be enough to really make a difference.
 

FrankCowperwood

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In our cutting and making, we have zero tolerance. We ship the shirts with accurate measurements. If anything is off during making, it is corrected / remade before being shipped.

What we are unable to accurately account for is shrinkage. Even though we wash and dry the fabric before cutting, we do see that fabrics can shrink marginally. If the shrinkage is reported to be more than marginal, we add another wash cycle for the fabric.

Also, some fabrics tend to feel different than the others. Due to fabric thickness, smoothness, weight and weave, even if the measurements are exactly the same, they can sometimes feel very different on the body.


Thank you. That's good to know that your policy is zero variance. That leads me to think I'll try adding a little to my sleeve length on my next order.

Your other points about the inherent differences of different fabrics are well made and certainly make good sense.
 

luxire

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Bowball

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Just a short post to say that I've been really impressed by how quickly and helpfully luxire have been responding to my emails. Really hope Justin's suggestions can sort out my trouser fit.

On another note I've certainly noticed some shrinkage on my older Oxford shirts after a dozen trips through the drier.
 

HughJ

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Thank you. That's good to know that your policy is zero variance. That leads me to think I'll try adding a little to my sleeve length on my next order.


After going back and forth with Luxire, it was pointed out to me that they measure sleeve width differently than most MTM manufacturers - they measure at the armhole rather than across the bicep. I'm not sure how they then determine how to taper the arm toward the cuff, but in my case it resulted in a literally skin tight sleeve and the tightness across the back you describe. I have OTR shirts with sleeves that are too long/too short, but none of them exhibit this issue, so I think that sleeve width must play a role in the tightness. I will report back on how my next order goes (added .75" to sleeve width), but I think my sleeve length and yoke width are otherwise perfect, and I'm reluctant to add side pleats on a casual shirt.
 
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JubeiSpiegel

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Mine still haven't even been shipped : (


Is you order using an exact shirt pattern from a previous order? Usually extensive shirt delays are due to the pattern creation/editing process. Otherwise maybe there is a fabric shortage on your selections, so just waiting on fabric?
 

venividivicibj

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Is you order using an exact shirt pattern from a previous order? Usually extensive shirt delays are due to the pattern creation/editing process. Otherwise maybe there is a fabric shortage on your selections, so just waiting on fabric?

Changes to a previous order, but no the exact same. I ordered swatches too, but those should normally be easy
 

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