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Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread

blindlemonjeff

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Question for the group:

Does anyone know how box pleats impact the dimensions of a shirt?

I have a Kamakura shirt which I love, but I'd rather have it with knife pleats than a box pleat. Should I change any of the dimensions to account for a different type of pleat? I'm presuming this will impact the fit but I don't know how I should compensate in the measurements.
 
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breakaway01

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Question for the group:

Does anyone know how box pleats impact the dimensions of a shirt?

I have a Kamakura shirt which I love, but I'd rather have it with knife pleats than a box pleat. Should I change any of the dimensions to account for a different type of pleat? I'm presuming this will impact the fit but I don't know how I should compensate in the measurements.
general advice -- just tell Luxire what you're trying to achieve without telling them how to do it. Diagrams and/or photos can be helpful. Do not change the measurements -- this will cause more confusion.
 

JimmyTre

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The type of pleat should not affect the measurements, at least not the yoke measurement. The different types of pleat would just be a different way of gathering the fabric below the yoke.

Granted, there would be a bit of extra fabric across the back below the yoke (the point of the pleat) when considering pleat vs. no pleat. But, in the case of box vs. knife pleats, the amount of gathered fabric would be about the same (since the box pleats is really two pleats, just closer together).

The issue is really about the location of the pleats more than about more or less fabric. The knife pleat would give you a little more room if you feel a little pulling on your lats, whereas the box pleat would help more if you feel pulling at the center of the back.
 
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luxire

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Thank you dear friends. All fine here so far. ?

Take good care.

I hope that the worst is behind us.
 

boot_owl

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@luxire I'm trying to reply to an email but it doesn't seem to be going through
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luxire

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@luxire I'm trying to reply to an email but it doesn't seem to be going through View attachment 1355440

No visible issue. Receiving mails as normal. Also, the mailbox is not full.
Will suggest trying to send again.
If the issue persists, please PM me the detailed error message.
 

SartorialStudent

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Hello!
Looking for a off white fabric, best would've been cotton twill which would've been usable all year around where I live (sweden), optimal would be a four season pant. Looked all over the site but no avail, though I found these two:

Plain off-white cotton flannel

Off-white heavy vintage linen

Do any of you have any thoughts on these fabrics? I understand that flannel is unusual in summer, although this one is low weight and to me cotton flannel isn't as much connected to winter as wool flannel. I guess the linen pant would work great in summer, and maybe spring, but not fall or winter, so then I would have to get some other white pant for those seasons.

All help is greatly appreciated!
 

SimonC

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Off-white heavy vintage linen

Do any of you have any thoughts on these fabrics?

I have this. Not quite as epic as the ecru heavy vintage, but a really lovely fabric. Heavy enough for a range of climatic conditions, but it’s linen so will look a bit odd if worn out of season. Not to be worn in the vicinity of small children or animals...

Luxire has the linen-cotton canvas in white, that would be my choice as an underrated fabric suitable for at least 3 season wear:


Alternately, perhaps @luxire can help you source a suitable fabric?
 

luxire

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Hello!
Looking for a off white fabric, best would've been cotton twill which would've been usable all year around where I live (sweden), optimal would be a four season pant. Looked all over the site but no avail, though I found these two:

Plain off-white cotton flannel

Off-white heavy vintage linen

Do any of you have any thoughts on these fabrics? I understand that flannel is unusual in summer, although this one is low weight and to me cotton flannel isn't as much connected to winter as wool flannel. I guess the linen pant would work great in summer, and maybe spring, but not fall or winter, so then I would have to get some other white pant for those seasons.

All help is greatly appreciated!
For Sweden, 4-season wear, I would recommend the Brisbane Moss Keats. Also available in white, cream.
It is an amazing fabric in our experience.
 

SimonC

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Thanks for the reply! The linen cotton mix seems nice but I generally prefer twill or plain, except maybe in 100% linen. Also heard that a cotton/linen mix usually will wrinkle as bad as linen but won't be as ventilated, maybe you have a different experience?

I have a few pairs of the linen cotton canvas. The blend and the weave means it seems to hold a crease much better than pure linen. It breathes adequately, but is a dense fabric so I wouldn’t wear in tropical heat. I’d consider it an all-rounder with a slight bias to spring/summer, but that’s also true of white as a colour.
 

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