Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luxire, Jun 20, 2012.
Off-White Bull Denim Jeans
Hand-hammered copper rivets
Shirt jacket in Navy Linen:
I am a very junior member of this forum, but I thought I would start contributing in this thread, since you all have helped me so much in deciding what I wanted.
I do not know if I could be helpful to anyone myself, but I will try. I should say that I have an odd body shape, as I used to be very fat, and my upper body, as well as my legs are very slim compared to my bottom and upper thighs.
My first experience with Luxire is very recent. I ordered two shirts, using the same measurements.
I made one big mistake: the shirt from which I took the measurements was a bit short, so I decided to lenghten it, but without factoring that my hips (not to say my bottom) is quite large, so a shirt that was snug when it was short became a shirt that was way too tight at the bottom.
That being said, the shirts are of an exceptional quality, and the fabrics are great. For a formal shirt, I would really recommend the scabal white dobby hairline stripes, it is very nice. For a business shirt, the blue micro herringbone is great, although it may be a tad too dark for some of you.
I ordered two additional shirts, correcting the defective measurements, and one pant. I wanted something quite special, and these are the details of my current order. I will post pictures when I get it.
1x Minnis Midnight Grey Wool Birdseye - Front Pleats: No Pleat - Front Pockets: Custom Pocket Style(Describe in custom field below) - Fly Style: Button - Waist Band: Custom style waistband (Add requirement in custom field below) - Rear Pockets: Custom - Lining: Custom - Bottom Cuff: No - Waist Size: 17.50 - Half Hip Measurement: 20.50 - Hip Measurement Front: 19.75 - Pant Length: 42.50 - Inseam Measurement: 32.50 - Front Rise: 10.50 - Back Rise: 17.75 - Thigh Measurement (2 inch Below Crotch): 12.75 - Knee Measurement: 9.00 - Bottom / Ankle Opening: 7.75 - Custom Requirements: Here is what I would like:
Instructions for pants
- slanted front pockets, with contrast piping in [charcoal grey thread]
- fly style: buttons, with the construction exactly as in pt01 picture (except for the extended waist band, see below). As in the picture, I would like (1) contrast piping in [charcoal grey] on the side of the invisible row for button holes; (2) contrast lining on the back of the same piece in [black] and (3) the piece of fabric that is used for the invisible top button of the fly should be in [black and white stripes - for example in cotton].
- extended waistband, using a single belt loop (no other belt loops around the trousers). The one belt loop should be 1,5x wider than a standard belt loop and have a line in the middle similar to the one featured in the pt01 belt loop picture, but in [charcoal grey]. Button at the end of the waistband (which should sit just above the top of the slanted pocket) should be visible, with thread in [red].
- daks adjustable waistband on the side, as shown in picture [ph08_grande on your website, also in the album I just shared with you], with horn buttons and contrast thread in [charcoal], .
- 2 rear pockets with buttons using the pt01 style featured in picture of the light grey cotton pants, with the thread used for the buttons and on each side of both pockets' openings in [charcoal].
- waistband interior lining in [steel grey, satin like]
- pocket lining in [cotton - grey gingham checks or hariline stripes in grey or dark blue]
- front lined to knee
- no bottom cuff
- any visible buttons should be the fanciest you have in horn or very high quality plastics (check the photos), invisible buttons can (but do not have to) be in different colors.
- Thread for all buttons should be the same color as the color used for the contrast piping and other details except otherwise instructed
- My initials [YB], tone on tone, block capital letters, small and discrete (no more than a quarter of the height of the waistband), should be sewn on the waistband, just above the rear pocket (on the right side).
-- Dress shirt
1x Grandi & Rubinelli Baby Blue Birdseye Dobby - Neck: 14.75 - Sleeve: 34.00 - Collar: Semi Spread - Cuff: French - Back: No Pleats - Pocket: No - Placket: Yes - Custom_notes:
- the collar button, and the first button below the collar are special. The button holes should use navy thread and the button should be attached with the same color thread.
- Rest of the shirt is normal: should be tone on tone button holes and white button thread
- I need a button on the sleeve opening - Chest: 21.00 - Waist: 19.50 - Bottom: 23 - Yoke: 18.00 - Biceps: 9.25 - Armhole: 9.50 - CuffSize: 7.50 - Length: 30.50
-- Casual shirt
1x Warzone White Oxford - Neck: 14.75 - Sleeve: 34.00 - Fit: Custom - Collar: Button Down - Cuff: French - Back: No Pleats - Pocket: No - Placket: Yes - Custom_notes: Trying to do something similar to this: [redacted]
- Contrasting fabric in [blue gingham checks on white, such as this one: http://luxire.com/products/blue-gingham-by-sic-tess] on the hidden side of the placket (top to bottom of placket, excluding collar)
- last button hole (bottom of the shirt) opens horizontally, with button hole in [pale blue thread], and [pale blue thread] used to attach the last button
- contrasting collar interior and collar back (but not collar band) in [blue stripes on white such as this one: http://luxire.com/products/pale_blue_pencil_stripes_on_white (but put horizontally) - should be the same level of blue (but I do not mind if it is pale blue or darker) used in the contrasting placket interior]
- contrasting cuff interior in [blue stripes on white such as this one: http://luxire.com/products/pale_blue_pencil_stripes_on_white (horizontally) - should be the same level of blue (but I do not mind if it is pale blue or darker) used in the contrasting placket interior]
- If possible, half of the cuff interior is in stripes, the other is in white polka dots on blue
- button holes at the cuff should use blue thread and be attached with the same thread
- contrasting gusset in white polka dots on blue if possible, otherwise plain blue.
- Elbow patch in shirt fabric, attached with blue thread - Chest: 21.00 - Waist: 19.50 - Bottom: 23 - Yoke: 18.00 - Biceps: 9.25 - Armhole: 9.50 - CuffSize: 7.50 - Length: 30.50
I have purchased roughly 15-20 shirts and my favourites are:
1. Blue and Sky Blue Hairline stripes
2. Red Mini Gingham
3. Deep Red Gingham - kinda a brownish dark red, but goes well with navy dress pants.
4. Pale Blue Dress Stripes - it was $80 bucks but good luck finding the same one on the site.
I have had good success with Monti, and that is around the $100 range.
I am hoping the new site has a better method of naming the fabrics, because there are many fabrics with the same name and that if you order Blue Dress Stripes, you may not be getting the same fabric as someone did previously. They will keep it on the site with the same name and same photo but use a different fabric.
Any chance you have a picture of the blue hairline stripes? I was about to choose that one but couldn't tell how it'd look as a full shirt.
I do not have a picture but can tell you it looks like a solid blue from more than 5 feet away. You can only tell it is striped when you are much closer. The colour of the blue isn't pale, it is a darker colour of blue. Not navy, just not pale blue. Think standard business dress shirt blue. If you want a pale blue, the sky blue hairline stripes fits that description (I have that as well).
The fabric itself is pretty basic, but does a good job of not wrinkling. It is not a see-through fabric either.
I had ordered the sky blue hairline stripe first and was so happy with it that I went and ordered the blue hairline stripe next.
I plan to buy some of the aforementioned shirts. If it isn't too much of a hassle, would you be able to link me to the four shirts so I don't make a mistake by ordering the wrong fabric? Or I should be safe as long as the title indicates it's that particulary fabric? I don't mind to spend in the $100 range as that's my budget per shirt.
Hoping that someone can assist me with a question regarding the balance between front/back rise for trousers, as I intend to place my first order for a pair of trousers with Luxire. I am probably going to order the Amazon Green Twill to start.
On all of my RTW trousers, they've been altered to fit slimmer in the leg. The end result is that the inseam tends to "pitch" forward (for lack of a better term. They look fine and the crease is perfectly in the middle, but when measured, the front rise is around 10.5" while the back rise ends up being something like 17". I imagine that this isn't the norm. I understand that MTM exists because there isn't a norm, however, I'd like to know if others have noted a similar issue with RTW and attempted to correct it when going MTM. For example, would you make the front rise 12.5" and the back rise 15" and therefore end up with the same overall measurement, but hopefully yield an inseam that runs dead straight. Hope this makes sense and someone is able to offer some advice regarding this.
I don't quite understand the problem without pictures, but I can say that 16"/10.5" has proven to be a good number for me (big seat) for a mid to high rise odd trouser.
A bit higher for suit pants, 16.5"/11", and 15"/11" for denim.
Took a bit of trial and error to find the numbers that worked for me.
15"/12.5" sounds like it will look a little odd. I have never seen such a small back rise to large front rise ratio... Rare to find front rises that are above 11.5", really.
I'd try 16/11 or 16/11.5 first, myself.
Mate I hope this is the info you want, the back rise is always a fair bit longer than the front. Purely because your ass is bigger than well, your balls so you need more fabric at the back, and where the front and back rise meet at the seam is usually more towards the front of the trouser. I wouldn't worry about the pitch too much because your creating a new pattern. You and I are pretty similar proportions and my luxire back rise is 17.25 and front 12, which gives me a medium/high rise, not super high but certainly not low. In short, a 15 back rise will be disastrous.
I've seen plenty of Luxire trousers posted with the opposite problem of having too much room in the back rise, which leads to excess fabric at the back thigh area or a sloped down waistband so you do need to be careful. For general advice i'd recommended not worrying about the trouser pitch and copying the best pair of trousers you have while adjusting the rise to suit i.e you may want them higher so add 0.5 to them both sides. Takes a bit of expermentation.
Lachy and Jase, thank you both. Exactly the info I'm after, and Jase your reassurance is enough for me. Going to simply go off the current best fitting pair and make the odd tweak here and there. Will post pics once they arrive, but this will be a while as I'm yet to order!!
Does anyone here have experience with the green twill trousers?
As someone with a fat arse and large thighs, I'd recommend just jumping in.
I'm on my third pair now - looking to order another pair or two this weekend.
I can PM you pics if you want? I did for iSurg, and I think that helped convince him!
PapaRubbery, that would be fantastic.
i agree going with your best fitting pants will produce good results. my first pair fit great in the hips/thigh/butt. i will say that i discovered that i like my cotton odd pants to fit a little slimmer in the leg than my suit pants (or my odd wool pants for that matter). so it's worth thinking a little (but not overthinking) about how you'll use them and how you like different sorts of pants to fit. that said, i only ended up decreasing the leg by about .25" for subsequent orders of cotton pants.
Thanks topos. I'm the same as you in that I like my cotton pants to fit slimmer in the leg, although in my case it's by a reasonable margin. For example, my wool trousers tend to have a 7.5 - 8" leg opening, while cotton can be as narrow as 6.5" across.
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