Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luxire, Jun 20, 2012.
(j/k. good to hear!)
Hey guys, looking for some advice for my first Luxire order. A couple of questions.
1) Can someone recommend a collar for me? Will be worn around 75% open and 25% with a tie. Probably don't want a straight BD, but hidden would be OK.
2) Recommended fabric for my first shirt? Probably want to stay in the $60-80 range. I don't really have an Oxford and I probably need solids, though that new gingham from a few posts back looks great.
3) Best way to order first shirt is...? I don't have a perfectly fitting shirt currently, but could probably patch together my desired measurements from a couple of shirts. Is that better than sending in body measurements?
What are you going to be wearing it for? Office work environment?
The best is taking an existing shirt and sending it in. Even if it doesn't fit perfectly, you can have them offer suggestions on what measurements to change (send in fit pics if you want this). It's not a bad idea of have a local tailor work over one of your shirts to serve as your template.
Second best is measurements, but there's room for error there. A distant third is body measurements, which is a total crap shoot.
My first order from Luxire turned out good for the most part.I ordered the soft white herringbone fabric, as I love herringbone on shirts, and wanted another white dress shirt.
As this was my first shirt, I went with the "super slim" fit option in a 15.5" neck with a few alterations myself. I shortened the shoulder by .25", decreased the armhole to 9"(super high armholes on everything are best), decreased the bicep, and had a shirt that I could just barely slide my hand through and put that for the cuff. Everything else is "stock". I still think the torso area needs to be taken in but other than that everything is good!
Now some issues with the shirt. I noticed in more than one place a general sense of either sloppy or careless stitching on the shirt. I had asked for a reinforcing side gusset and from the way it was cut and sewn I have a feeling I am the first one to ask for this!
Sloppily cut and not in line with the seam.
The left collar stay is sewn quite wavy, it goes one way on the bottom, then curves another way on the top.
The arm seam decreases in width as it approaches the cuff.
I have seen the rounded French cuffs Luxire has done, and requested a slightly rounded cuff, but I guess I was not specific enough about this. The one on top is how I prefer them, and the one on the bottom is Luxire's.
Cutaway collar I requested, Luxire followed the measurements(or dimensions) perfectly. Overall the shirt is quite good, but Luxire needs to have their seamstresses do a better job sewing.
You know, perhaps $60 MTM isn't for you? That post is the very definition of nitpicking.
Try Ascot Chang. I believe they let you specify seam width in micrometres, and to customize cuff curve arc using differential geometry.
Also, would people please spoiler posts that contain a lot of pictures - makes things a lot easier on all of us.
*edit also your sleeves are too long. Check out the bunching at your right arm. The biceps still look a bit too big - you're very skinny.
But really it's impossible to tell how a dress shirt fits unless you button it all the way up. Completely throws off the look of the chest, yoke, sleeves etc.
I don't think expecting straight seams is nitpicking, but hey I guess I care more about the quality and construction of my clothes. Also from all I hear about Luxire from here on the forum and on the internet quite frankly I expected better. Yes I bought the cheapest fabric as a first trial shirt, that's what everyone does, so I don't see how this is my fault, the construction and sewing would have been the same whether I bought the $60 fabric or some of their $300.
None of this has anything to do with what the guy just posted.
I really wish people would stop white knighting brands on here. It's clear there were some sloppy points on this shirt, and there's no reason to be rude to him because he showed what they were. If he had bought the $600 fabric, would his gripes about construction be valid? Is there a sliding scale where a 60 dollar shirt merits you average or sub par clothes, and 100+ means the seams are straight?
No, it's not clear.
Half of the "issues" in the above post I don't even see.
1. Can't really tell in that photo.
2. Barely, barely noticeable narrowing of one seam which is probably hidden under a French cuff anyway.
3. Again, a slight curve in a seam, which is hidden under the collar anyway?
Additionally, the Soft White Herringbone is also a very soft, and incredibly stretchy fabric. I own it. If you pull the fabric in any way at all, the seams will curve. I imagine it is quite difficult to sew and cut for this reason. Until the shirt is washed and ironed it's all pre-emptive.
And yes, if you bought a $600 shirt, I would expect that the attention paid to construction would be more than the $60 shirt.
@ErikJN: just because I am curious, repeating Macs' question: are your pants lined (am assuming not)?
I can give a hearty recommendation of the following chino fabrics. Nice and heavy. No sheen. Hold a crease well enough. I haven't washed them yet, but I probably won't for a while.
In real life, I'd say the colour of the choco chino is something like this pair of Dockers (http://us.dockers.com/product/index...271558.3360914.13186555&parentPage=family&ab=). Warm brown with a hint of burgundy when in sunlight.
Product pictures of the other two are fairly accurate.
Do the chinos have any drape, or do they fall more like a new pair of jeans?
*Edit* Ranting and other tomfoolery.
Sorry but I don't really know what this means.
In descending order of softness, they essentially mirror their weights ie British Khaki - Choco - Stone.
Separate names with a comma.