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Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luxire, Jun 20, 2012.

  1. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    I prefer getting things made up with no synthetics generally, but there are a lot of options you can go with between the $100 Luxire flannels and $300 Minnis flannels that I assume you are talking about. There are some Dugdale flannels in the $180 or so range and also some flannels from an Italian mill IIRC for around $250.

    I love my Minnis flannel trousers from Luxire and would probably order this fabric again. I have a pair of the Dugdale flannels which are fine but don't have as much of a flannel look (I believe they may be worsted vs. woolen flannels so they look a bit more like a traditional worsted). If you're looking for a good workhorse 14 ounce flannel and don't care as much about how much it looks like a flannel, I think the Dugdale ones are a good middle ground. I tried to take some pictures of the fabric below. The top picture is the Dugdale light grey flannel and the bottom is the Minnis medium grey flannel.

    If you haven't nailed the fit yet, I'd order a cheaper fabric but something you'd still wear. Perhaps some corduroy or moleskin trousers for more casual use. Once you nail the fit, then you can get the $300 per pair items. Of course, if you've nailed your trouser fit already, please feel free to disregard this.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. NOBD

    NOBD Senior member

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    Oui, j'accusais. But I'm glad it's your own création. Zwei Knöpfe, tsss :devil:
     
  3. althanis

    althanis Senior member

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    If it's your first pants I would definitely recommend going with the wool/nylon blend to sort out fit issues before dropping $200. That way, when you've perfected the fit you can get the more luxurious fabric.

    I've read that the nylon would make the fabric a little more durable than pure wool, but I don't have enough experience to tell if this is true. I have to say that I baby my 100% lambswool flannel pants (from another maker), but am thinking of getting this wool/nylon blend for a more casual pair of trousers that I wouldn't worry about all the time.
     
  4. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    What he said.

    The Dugdales are nice and definitely have some nice texture to them, but are not super fuzzy.
     
  5. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    Worsted wool refers to the yarn, not the weave.

    Worsted yarns have all the fibres separate & aligned due to the way they're spun. Woollen fabrics have the fibres still more or less aligned, but they can twist round each other. From a distance, that gives it its distinctive "woolliness". Once you weave the yarns into a cloth, if you then brush the cloth mechanically in a particular way, you get a flannel. Do that to cloth made from worsted yarns, and you get "worsted flannel"; do that to cloth made from woollen yarns, and you get a standard "flannel". The brushing basically roughs up the cloth by dislodging some of fibres in the yarn. I'm 99.9% certain all this has been discussed at far greater lenght, by denizens far more knowledgeable than myself, on SF in the past. Might be worth searching if you want more information.

    tl;dr: from what I can see in the photos, Luxire are almost certainly correct with their descriptions.
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2014
    2 people like this.
  6. jaidog

    jaidog Well-Known Member

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    Great looking shirts! What material is the blue shirt made from, and how would you describe the material?
     
  7. burghler

    burghler Senior member

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    I think the consensus was the yoke height wasn't causing the wrinkles. The sleeves just needed to be rotated.
     
  8. Beatlegeuse

    Beatlegeuse Senior member

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    Very interesting info, thanks HF. I think I had just read so many comments on SF saying things like "don't wear a worsted navy jacket as a blazer because it looks too much like smooth suiting fabric." But by your explanation, something can be worsted but still have plenty of texture. The first fabric I linked to - the herringbone one - looks almost tweedy when you zoom in, which I didn't realize could still be worsted. I guess I had never really understood the terminology properly. I'll do some more research on the fabric and see what I can find.
     
  9. An Acute Style

    An Acute Style Senior member

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    I'm not sure how this falls ethically, but I thought I should share. Luxire offers 4 collar types for which there are not measurements given or real life pictures. I've been looking at other MTM places to get ideas for my Luxire shirts. I use to look at Modern Tailor, but I recently ran across Proper Cloth. They have an excellent gallery of collar types that includes measurements for collar length, spread, tie space, rear band height and front band height. The gallery also has real life pictures of the collar buttoned up with a tie, buttoned without a tie and unbuttoned without a tie. It's one of the best galleries I've ever seen. Anyway, I thought it might help some people get ideas for collars. I went with the Soft Milano Cutaway for my recent order.

    http://propercloth.com/collar-styles

    Enjoy.
     
    3 people like this.
  10. Osiris2012

    Osiris2012 Senior member

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    I'm not sure of the ethics either but that is some serious collar p0rn. Milano II collar and the president cut away with a bit more length is awesome.
     
  11. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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  12. Connemara

    Connemara Senior member

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    Can anyone comment on slim vs. super slim?
     
  13. MattR

    MattR Senior member

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    in my estimation, the slim is like the BB slim fit, if that helps.
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2014
  14. MattR

    MattR Senior member

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    action shot:

    [​IMG]
     
  15. NeedForTweed123

    NeedForTweed123 Senior member

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    Wonderful, thanks for the information. Do you know if it's true that woolen flannels look bad or deteriorate after a short period of time based off of your experience?
     
  16. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Not after a short period of time. Maybe after a few years. I do think woolen flannels will wear a bit faster than worsted wool trousers of similar weight, but I don't think they look bad after a fair amount of wear.
     
  17. NeedForTweed123

    NeedForTweed123 Senior member

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    Would you say it's worth it to buy flannel trousers then? I typically try to have things last for as long as possible, and I am not very hard on my clothes so I was hoping if I got these made they would last a fairly good amount of time, which is typically longer than a few years.
     
  18. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Trousers made with good quality fabrics will last for a good amount of time. How long depends on how many pairs of trousers you have in your rotation. The difference between flannels and worsteds is IMO not large enough that I'd be inclined to buy worsteds instead. The main reason to buy flannels is that they look better with odd jackets (or with a sweater or dress shirt) than worsted trousers. I also find that woolen flannel trousers are more comfortable and feel more lived in, though that could be a personal thing.
     
  19. NeedForTweed123

    NeedForTweed123 Senior member

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    I totally agree and much prefer woolen flannels, especially for odd trousers. I would not want any odd worsted trousers at all really. I'm thinking maybe 10-12 pairs total and they would be split in half between s/s and f/w. Do you think there is a pretty good amount of longevity in a rotation that size?
     
  20. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    Was this a luxire problem or just his measurement problem?
     

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