Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luxire, Jun 20, 2012.

  1. mrjester

    mrjester Senior member

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    Right. But from which order date? :-D

    I believe Therese said work on mine is starting next week. [​IMG]

    I sent her a change list of all the items as to keep better track.
     


  2. ammanati

    ammanati Senior member

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    Sadly but probably from the last one.. ;)
     


  3. fridayfrenzy

    fridayfrenzy Senior member

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    NOBD - can you look up a handful of messages and let me know what fabric that was.

    Thanks.
     


  4. YourArsenal

    YourArsenal Well-Known Member

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    I'm not a tailor, but I believe you basically sew through the fabric a couple times to create the tack, then 'embroider' it much in the same way you would a buttonhole, to reinforce. Like this: http://www.knitheaven.com/vintagepatterns/LWTB/LwTb/images/illus-031-full.png – basically around the thread, through the loop, pull tight. It's much like how a bartack on a tie is made.
     


  5. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    Good to know, thanks; I ordered mine a week later so I guess I haven't much longer to wait. [​IMG]
     


  6. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    No worries. It's a hard one to say without seeing the shirt in person, but you may have to play around with adding a bit more over the next few shirts to get it right. Don't do too much all at once, that being said half an inch won't make much difference, probably a full inch would be my recommendation and probably half an inch to the waist to balance it.

    Looking at your image again on a large monitor, I can also see you have quite a curved lower back, so consider adding darts to help with cleaning it up. The darts should be purely used for shape, not for slimming. Some love them and some loathe them, but they do help shape the lower back when used effectively.
     


  7. lachyzee

    lachyzee Senior member

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    I agree with HC and meant to post earlier re. that shirt picture. It's too tight around the hips & waist.

    EIther try darts, or do what I have been doing recently since I don't like darts which is to have a slightly smaller back waist/hip/chest measurement than front (basic principle is that you need a bit more fabric in the front than the back, while keeping the side seam centered, but only a little. For instance I think my shirts were at about 10.5" back waist, 11.25" front waist.
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2013


  8. lachyzee

    lachyzee Senior member

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    I highly recommend that everyone trying sitting & slouching in your shirts before deciding whether they fit.

    If they pucker too much vertically (a little bit is to be expected), or split horizontally at all, along the placket, then this means they are too tight.

    I imagine that the shirt posted earlier must have those problems.

    I've learnt from a great deal of trial and error that it's impossible to achieve a perfectly slim fitting Ralph Lauren model-esque look while standing up/in profile (ie no bunched fabric at all), and still be at all comfortable while sitting down. There's always going to be some bunching at the hips/back, particularly if you wear low rise pants. High rise pants can alleviate the problem somewhat.

    *edit referring to the pics in this post http://www.styleforum.net/t/304965/...ficial-affiliate-thread/4600_100#post_6539367
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2013


  9. Notreknip

    Notreknip Senior member

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    Truth.
     


  10. Spurious

    Spurious Senior member

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    Thank you guys.
    I will talk to Luxire to see what I need to do to implement the changes.
     


  11. burghler

    burghler Senior member

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    Just seeing this now, I'm sure Luxire can make it to whatever construction specs you'd like. I believe Sterlingwear is currently using 24oz melton wool and synthetic blend whereas the historical standard was melton wool 32oz and above (Buzz Rickson's reproduction uses 36oz melton wool). I doubt given the nature of their business Luxire has established relationships with some of the heavyweight wool suppliers like HE Box, who I know offer navy cavalry twill in a 32oz weight, so CMT might be your best bet depending on how heavy you're looking to go. I believe HE Box will sell directly to the customer. If not (and if you actually want to go that heavy), perhaps you could solicit interest through the forum and ask Luxire to purchase the cloth for everyone to have made (by them of course) into pea coats.

    I doubt the all-in cost would be less than the $300 for a Sterlingwear coat but a better cloth and fit along with customization options make it worth it in my opinion. My specs would be very similar to the navy TOJ coat below: horn buttons, reversible collar, slash handwarmer pockets, completely natural shoulder, and short side vents.

    [​IMG]
     


  12. iamacyborg

    iamacyborg Senior member

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    Of course, you'd be missing some of the beautiful ToJ leather in that repro...
     


  13. burghler

    burghler Senior member

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    I've never owned any ToJ but would like to. I actually wanted to order this exact coat from them. Sadly it was discontinued, and I didn't like the flap hip pockets on the new design. The owner closed up shop to open a restaurant, right? Also, I'm curious, other than the pockets, what else is made of leather in the ToJ version?
     


  14. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Just ordered a pair of Dugdale light gray pants. First, I have to take off the pants I'm wearing and send them in. They are the cheapest pants I own, but fit great. If they can replicate them with a couple changes, I'll be thrilled.
     


  15. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    For people who have sent in pants to be replicated, have they been satisfied?
     


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