1. Welcome to our newest affiliate vendors We are very happy to welcome our newest affiliate vendors, Shibumi Firenze bringing us classic accessories and bespoke tailoring from Florence, and owned long time member "Braddock", and Jonathan Abel who bring us their Goodyear welted shoes made in Portugal.

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Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luxire, Jun 20, 2012.

  1. Sneaky Pete

    Sneaky Pete Well-Known Member

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    I'm an idiot. I've just found the comments/reviews section on the fabric pages.
     


  2. jeep364

    jeep364 Well-Known Member

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    Luxire feedback was to reduce back length at waist 1.5cm. Similar issue I believe. I think otherwise the rise and positioning is spot on. I hesitate to reduce rise too much because I don't want the trousers to ride up at the crotch uncomfortably, but I guess that's why we are taking it at the waist.

    My plan:
    -Reduce back length at waist 1.5 cm as per suggestion.
    -Increase upper thigh 0.5 cm (I know this may actually exacerbate the rear thigh issue, but I feel like I need a bit more room when I place a slim wallet and phone in my pockets).
    -Increase mid thigh 0.5 cm.
    -Adjust length as needed based on shrinkage expectation.

    Also noted some discussion in the FAQ (noted below) on darts. Anybody have comments on these?


    "The garment is loose under the buttocks and there is too much fabric in the area causing diagonal wrinkles to form below the darts. Loose diagonal folds appear from the side seams and inseams towards the crease line of the pant legs.

    • Add one back waist dart. Increase the dart position setting to move the darts closer to the side seam. Shorten or lengthen the back dart length such that they release fabric just above the largest body bulge.
    • Can also be adjusted by shortening the overall length of the back rise/back length by taking a wedge off the top.
    • Pant measurement has not been adjusted according to the seat type.
    Adjustment to Ask For:
    • Add one dart at the back waist
    • Increase dart position setting
    • Decrease back length at waist"

    Second order. Honestly, pretty minute adjustments from first (adding to hip to flatten pockets, adding a bit to the rise, thigh increase). The main issue was the length, I did not expect such dramatic shrinkage.

    Agreed on the wash and wear. Have done a wash or two since the photos were made.

    Second, but very close to the first. I did not wash and wear much before re-ordering due to my impatience. I simply made measurements.

    I think I am being quite meticulous and picky at this point with the rear /thigh fit because i had never taken pictures of the back of my trousers. I have recently done so with expensive MTM with a local tailor and this Luxire fit is better. One of my best 'rear fit' trousers is an OTR in heavy cotton (the weight of the fabric certainly does wonders).
     


  3. Eli Curt

    Eli Curt Senior Member

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    I had my first pair in 4.5 weeks.
    Just added a bit to the waist and a bit to the inseam and ordered my second pair 5 minutes ago. I'll let you know if I have them before September.

    Here's the first pair (those see-through cream cotton ones):

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2018


  4. NycLondon

    NycLondon Senior Member

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    I would say the fit is OK (not Great looking, but still OK). But the price is great, so how do they feel? All this stuff is a balance.
     


  5. paddyo

    paddyo Active Member Affiliate Vendor

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    What would you do to improve the fit?
     


  6. Epicure

    Epicure Senior Member

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    Nice 'stache, sir. While the beard wasn't doing you too many favours, and clean shaven look was a big improvement, now you have the best of both worlds.
     


  7. joacimbylehn

    joacimbylehn Senior Member

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    I never thought I’d say this, but my somewhat consistent visits to the gym has altered my body :eek:

    Pretty much all my shirts now have a neck shelf (or whatever we’d like to call it, that’s the literal translation from the Swedish expression), a small fold on the yoke right under the collar.
    My question is what the best way to amend this would be?
    Adding 1-2 cm or so to the yoke measurements is what I have in mind, but @luxire and everyone else are welcome to come with solutions and suggestions.
    528EDB8C-0064-4EE6-ABB5-DE0A31284CC2.jpeg 48B7E7B6-EE25-42E8-825D-5B070F788B8F.jpeg
     


  8. paddyo

    paddyo Active Member Affiliate Vendor

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    @joacimbylehn

    Your shoulder angle may have changed due to trap development etc. You can fix this problem with -1 cm in collar height (takes out a small wedge of cloth just underneath the collar on the pattern). Be worth seeing photos from the front in addition to see if the change in shoulder angle has affected the fit elsewhere.
     


  9. joacimbylehn

    joacimbylehn Senior Member

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    To be clear, this shirt is not by Luxire, but the issue is more or less visible on all my shirts regardless of maker.
    On the shirt I posted yesterday, I only have a slight hint of it. I'm looking to place an order for a few more shirts but I'd like to get this taken care of first.
    I’ll try to get non selfie shots up here asap to give you a proper idea of full fit.
     


  10. JIMB

    JIMB Senior Member

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    Agree with @paddyo , you want to remove from yoke. I have this with RTW jackets and shirts, also caused by more erect posture which you may be seeing from the gym.
     


  11. breakaway01

    breakaway01 Distinguished Member

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    I agree with @paddyo but be sure to send a photo by email and specify that you want the collar lowered, not that you want the yoke height reduced, which in my experience will result in the entire yoke being shortened.
     


  12. 1up

    1up Distinguished Member

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    Do you guys notice a considerable amount of shrinking with some fabrics more than others?

    I ordered the Sky Blue Twill and Soft White Twill - the white one I've worn/washed much more and it's shrunk a considerable amount.
     


  13. Sneaky Pete

    Sneaky Pete Well-Known Member

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    Good question. I have shirts made for me by a tailor in Bangkok (with varying results but it's cheap...);I buy the fabric here (London) and always wash it before sending to avoid post-fabrication shrinkage.
     


  14. jayysonn

    jayysonn New Member

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    I'm looking right now for business blue shirt fabric. But I'm not really sure where to go to find a nice shirt that fits, especially being far from any type of legit clothing store, and having a limited budget..
     


  15. 8675309

    8675309 Well-Known Member

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