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Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luxire, Jun 20, 2012.
Shirred back and shoulders on our vintage shirt
Center pleats useless?
Yes and No.
Yoke height is key here. If the yoke extends lower on the back, the pleat would not add much to the flexibility of arm movements, which is what they are for. They are not for giving "breathing space" to your back.
So, if you want "functional" center pleats, decrease the yoke height. Otherwise, they function well as the placeholder for locker loops.
Is the shirring feature generally more appropriate on OCBDs? More formal? Less formal? I've thought about getting it done too but I dont' know where it is or is not customary/acceptable to do so.
Daaamn, can't believe I missed out on this thread for so long. Well, I guess it's a fairly new company and I was trying out different MTM shirt makers about a year ago, then kind of stopped. The fabrics at Modern Tailor were mostly terrible, and I also had a bad experience with CottonWork.
I'm just looking for a place to build a wardrobe of casual untucked shirts to wear with denim like OCBDs, tattersall patterns, maybe some linen for summer, madras, etc. I'm typically around a 16.5 x 37.
Do the fabrics shrink much in the dryer? I typically tumble dry a new shirt twice to get all the shrinkage out of the way, then hang dry after that.
I'm uncertain. As far as I know OCBDs are traditionally made with box/center pleats. (well, the ones with origin in the US I think)
At least PRL and BB make their shirts with box pleats, unsure of other makers. I've just made my two OCBDs with a center pleat as that was what I was accustomed to.
Ketawa: From Luxires page on http://luxire.com/pages/quality-and-satisfaction:
Shrinkage: Your shirt is pre-washed and pre-shrunk. All fabrics at Luxire are washed and carefully ironed before carving it into your shirt. Some fabrics, like Oxford, shrink more than others. These are washed, dried and ironed 2-3 times before stitching. This reduces the probability of shrinkage. We adjust shirt sizing based on shrinkage so you are not required to adjust the size you provide.
Here's my newest shirt. Fabric is candy stripes oxford. It is a bit crisp and wrinkles slightly more than my previous blue oxford. But it is still nice to the touch.
Comment on the fit would be appreciated. I think the extra fabric on the back was fixed compared to the previous blue oxford shirt.
I like the second shirt a lot more on you than the first one.
The changes to the waist paid off.
Have you changed the sleeves as well? Those of the second shirt look slimmer in the upper arm. In your place I would still ask for more taper from the elbows to the cuffs though.
Other from that I would suggest wearing and washing it several times and to decide afterwards which smaller changes you still might want to make to it.
Wow, that is fantastic. Thanks for the pointer.
Luxire, would you be able to source selvaged denim from mills like Cone Mills?
I bought another pair of RAW denim recently and once again am not satisfied with the fit and some details of it.
I would love to order a pair from you because I trust in the craftsmanship of your tailors and enjoy to be able to specify all sorts of details, but am uncertain because of fabrics and hardware like buttons etc.
I'd be interested to hear the answer to this as well. Also, my Mercer & Sons-styled OCBD arrived yesterday. The collar roll looks great and the measurements I provided were exactly followed. I'll definitely need to make a few adjustments going forward and will post pics once I have a chance to launder.
So has anyone got anything other than shirts and pants? Anyone got any outerwear yet?
Plain back or center pleat. Although I absolutely hate a box pleat on normal dress shirts, I somewhat like it on an OCBD. It's useless to me functionally, but it's in keeping with tradition. Which a lot of aspects of clothing are.
No shirred sleeves/back, they're terribly hideous. A shirred sleeve when overdone (I've seen a really pronounced Neapolitan one, which is no surprise since they seem to enjoy exaggeration) looks like a woman's dress shirt and is a terrible look.
Got this: 4 pocket shirt jacket; technically it's a shirt but it's a spring/summery kind. BTW would go for linen if you live somewhere really hot (kinda regret it) so for here in AUS it's used in autumn and probably spring when it gets here.
OK, I'll consider going with a plain back for my next order then.
Thank you! I made the cuffs 0.5" bigger. I did mention in the note that I liked how the sleeves look on my previous shirt but it seems like the bigger cuffs still make the sleeves balloon out. Or maybe I should just stick with the smaller cuffs after all.
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