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Luciano Barbera Blog Magazine

ADavidS

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As a big fan of Luciano Barbera, both the man and the clothing, I was excited to see they redid their website (www.lucianobarbera.it) and launched a blog of sorts. I remember some old catalogs from Barbera that were filled with humor, and felt like they really copied that mold with their blog. There are also some great photos of Sgr. Luciano on their site:

lucianobarbera.blogspot.com

I am glad to see the company getting a little younger, I think they need that if they are going to last.
 

Bull

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I have high expectations for the blog. Here's to hoping they knock it out of the park!
 

ADavidS

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I think it is still in its infancy. But I did notice that they got Will Boehkle to write a guest piece for them - that seems like a good start.
 

robin

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on sprezzatura



Why are you looking at a picture of a bare hanger? It goes back to a book I love from the Italian renaissance called The Book of The Courtier. The key idea of the book - it is long and who has the time to read these days - is sprezzatura. A man must face the world with sprezzatura. It literally means detachment, but a better way to think of it is quiet confidence or low-key style. The most forceful statement is understatement. It is the philosophy behind everything I do. So why are you looking at a picture of a hanger? Sprezzatura.
 

Parker

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Funny, I was going to start a thread on his Style Tips after seeing the new site the other day. I think the tips are quite good and I like how he doesn't take this stuff too seriously. Makes it more fun. The sprezz one is kinda goofy, but actually is a different take on the term which seems now to mean "unbuttoned monk straps" and "look-at-me socks". "It is not enough to have beautiful clothes. Lots of people have beautiful clothes. In fact, some peole have too many. What is important is what you do with them." Luciano Barbera THE SUIT You do not need me to tell you that the suit is the key element in any gentleman's wardrobe. So I will tell you a story instead. I had my first suit made for me when I was 24, by the legendary Milanese tailor, Mario Pozzi. It took Mr. Pozzi 6 months to go through the process of fitting me and taking all my measurements. Then he cut the fabric, a beautiful saxony cloth, and personally delivered it to my door. When I tried it on, he and I were both very pleased. Why wouldn't I be? He was a genius. I was also eager to get back into my street clothes but he gave me this advice. "Put the suit on and keep it on. Wear it for two days straight. Eat in it. Sleep in it. Then it will not just be an exquisite suit. Sarà un tuo vestito - it will be your suit". THE JACKET A suit tells the world you are ready for business. A jacket tells the world you are open to fun. For me the ideal jacket should have soft and natural lines and balanced proportions. It should fit you but not constrict you. I do not believe in stiff shoulder pads. That is vanity, not style. Do not make it too tight. If it's too tight, you will look like a matador. Any time I see a man playing golf or tennis in his jacket, I know he and I could be friends. TROUSERS There are many schools on trouser length. In America they are often worn so that the pant leg tumbles over the shoes. Many Europeans now wear them quite short. You even show a little sock. What can I say? Perhaps we Europeans are secretly afraid of flash floods. The picture at right shows, quite literally, where I stand. I call this the Mid-Atlantic Solution since it is halfway between Europe and America. The pants just breaking lightly on the shoe. I do not want to see your socks, but I do want to see your shoes. THE SHIRT I know I have said you can have too many clothes. But I take that back where shirts are concerned. The shirt is a triumph of modern life, like the automobile or the web. It is easy to put on and take off, quick to wash and easy to store. Plus, shirts look great. A man should own as many shirts as he wishes - the more the better. I personally have so many shirts that I sometimes walk into my closet, pull one out, and think to myself, "Now where did that come from?" Having lots of shirts will allow you to surprise yourself with your own good taste. THE TIE The tie follows the culture. In the 50s I wore a bow tie. In the 60s I tied a Windsor. In the 70s I went open-necked. In the 80s I had a big aggressive knot that said, do not mess with me. Now I find that what I want is a less-fussed-over-knot with a soft pleating. It is simple. It is declarative. It feels right. How will I wear my tie in the next decade? Who knows? Ask me then. SEASONAL Everyone knows you wear wool in the winter, linen in the summer, and a straw hat from June 15th to Labor Day. Everyone is right. And therein lies the problem. Follow these rules and you will look like everyone else. Better that you display a little originality. On the gravest days of winter I put on my gray flannels, a cashmere tie in a sober color and my white linen jacket. The pants keep me warm. The tie gains me entrÃ
e into good restaurants. The blazer reminds me that summer will come again.
 

Bull

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His write-up on trousers is the last word on trouser length. Awesomely succinct.
 

intent

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The man has a flair for hyperbole.
 

Superfluous

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"Q: Which designer never fails to impress you?

Ralph Lauren."
 

Moss

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A man of style and a true gentleman. His wit and advice lifts you up to where you should be in making style relaxed and playful. :slayer:
 
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