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low-quality bespoke jacket Appreciation

GQgeek

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Before I get started, I'm not wearing any pants. I left the oven on and my apartment was like a hundred degrees when I got back from salsa. Since I wanted to spare Ed the hassle of cleaning-up his keyboard of a sticky mess, I took angled-shots as best I could to avoid any illicit shots.
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And as I said. I'm just back from salsa and didn't bother changing my shirt for the photo. I know it doesn't match. Lastly, it's said that a picture is worth a thousand words. Since my pictures suck, I'm gonna give you a least a couple hundred words to supplement them.

The jacket is a double-vented, single-button, peak lapel with flap pockets. The colors are off in the photo. The brown has coppery accents and the blue is much more radient. It's not dull like in the photo. It really sticks-out beautifully. I haven't settled on a dslr yet so I'm still taking photos with a razr. This was done at night, with crappy lighting, so it's really not ideal, or even adequate.

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I've come to much prefer the borrelli cut to anything else since I started wearing it. They're just so damned comfortable. This jacket is constructed like a borrelli. The sleeveheads and sleeves are done the same way, it has open-quarters, and most importantly, the canvas used was very very supple and light. There's actually less wadding in the shoulder than the Nerano model, and my tailor didn't go quite as big as borrelli does on the sleevehead (less of a ripple-effect). Of course, there's no banana. The waist, button-fastening, and drape are all perfect imo. You can see that there's no tension in the photo. It lies very smooth and the waist is quite tapered, although you can't tell from the photos I provided.The button-holes are superbly done as well.

My only beef is with pick-stitching. A lot of the customers up here saw garments made using a thick silk thread for the pick-stitching. It sort of says "hey, look at me, I was hand-made and cost thousands of dollars." I liked it at first, especially on some casual unconstructed cashmere jackets that I saw. My first jacket was made that way. For this one, I specified I wanted to use a regular sized thread. They complied with that part of the request, but didn't catch the rest. Unfortunately, they still used the longer stitches they'd use with the thicker thread, so this needs to be communicated better next time. The pickstitching is there, but it's not as good as on a borrelli. Instead of very short stitches in and out, they're a bit longer, and the sewers haven't put enough tension in the thread so that you get the pleasing effect of pick-stitching while avoiding the pin-cusion effect of the stuff that's been pick-stitched by machine. It's good, and it's all clean and straight, but it's just not excellent like the top-tier stuff. The other thing is that I'm debating raising the armhole just a tad more.

EDIT: bad title for the thread. The quality is very good. I meant low-res.
 

edmorel

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Jacket is very nice, would like to see better pics to get a feel for the color/texture etc. Also, you seem to really like Borrelli, like I do. Did you go bespoke because you needed a bettr fit than what Borrelli offers you or simply to try to replicate Borrelli at a more accesible price point?

Lastly, you and Kronik need to visit a therapist. You guys need to come to the realization that I'm just not available to you two. Sorry, but I just don't go that way.
 

chobochobo

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Perhaps it's the angle, but the peaks on those lapels look really 'way out' there.
 

MilanoStyle

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So, is that what you do when you come back from Salsa?
 

Connemara

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Originally Posted by edmorel
Jacket is very nice, would like to see better pics to get a feel for the color/texture etc. Also, you seem to really like Borrelli, like I do. Did you go bespoke because you needed a bettr fit than what Borrelli offers you or simply to try to replicate Borrelli at a more accesible price point?

Lastly, you and Kronik need to visit a therapist. You guys need to come to the realization that I'm just not available to you two. Sorry, but I just don't go that way.


Those e-mails you sent me seem to contradict this.
confused.gif
 

kronik

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I never sought availability. The frivolous nature of our "relationship" (if you want to call it that) was all I ever wanted. The love and affection you expected were never possibilities; move on, it was fun while it lasted.

Nice shirt, GQGeek.
 

itsstillmatt

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So, I am assuming that you want an actual critique... I think that there is a lot of good here. The lapels are really nicely shaped, and the roll is excellent. The buttons are very nice, but I would lose the crow's foot stitching. That is a shirt detail and only Borrelli does it for jackets. The cut away after the button looks quite well done. If I were to change things I would think about: 1. The shoulders look natural, but they look a little stiff. Do they feel that way? 2. I would see if they can do the breast pocket a little better next time. It could use more curvature. Maybe this is just the picture. 3. I think through the mid section you might want to focus more on shape than slimness. I know that I got some negative comments at one point about too much shape, but this looks like it may hug your body, but without much roundness or shape. This is just a preference. 4. The collar could be a touch higher and hug more. Overall I think it looks very good, but there are tiny things that I would change. Probably the only one necessary is #4. The others are just taste issues. The fabric looks very nice. It is impossible to tell about the armholes, but I find the armholes on Borrelli jackets a bit extreme for some reason. Yours look better to me.
 

a tailor

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you are right about the edge stitching. i think that a very fine stitch that is almost invisible looks the most elegant.
that very heavy stitching can be removed and replaced with a finer one.
 

GQgeek

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Originally Posted by edmorel
Jacket is very nice, would like to see better pics to get a feel for the color/texture etc. Also, you seem to really like Borrelli, like I do. Did you go bespoke because you needed a bettr fit than what Borrelli offers you or simply to try to replicate Borrelli at a more accesible price point?

Borrelli fits me very well, but there are always little things that can be improved. I always have to have my borrellis altered, and some have turned-out better than others. I also never pay retail for them. Consequently, selection is rather limited. I couldn't have afforded to build the wardrobe I have without lance and ian.

At this point I'm using bespoke to fill gaps in my wardrobe because I didn't have any browns or grey yet. I wanted some so I had them commissioned. I have a deposit on a grey with blue windowpane but I haven't decided what to do with it yet. I wasn't sure what the results would be on this one since this is very different from what he does for most clients. I plan on doing a couple bespoke jackets per year. With this jacket I have my bases pretty well-covered. Next year I'll do some S/S jackets.

Originally Posted by MilanoStyle
So, is that what you do when you come back from Salsa?

I had a class but only stayed at the club for 30min after it finished, essentially until lots of people started showing-up. I didn't feel comfortable leaving my brand new bespoke jacket unattended on a chair, gift-wrapped for someone to steal. ;p

Originally Posted by iammatt
So, I am assuming that you want an actual critique...

I think that there is a lot of good here. The lapels are really nicely shaped, and the roll is excellent. The buttons are very nice, but I would lose the crow's foot stitching. That is a shirt detail and only Borrelli does it for jackets. The cut away after the button looks quite well done.

If I were to change things I would think about:

1. The shoulders look natural, but they look a little stiff. Do they feel that way?
2. I would see if they can do the breast pocket a little better next time. It could use more curvature. Maybe this is just the picture.
3. I think through the mid section you might want to focus more on shape than slimness. I know that I got some negative comments at one point about too much shape, but this looks like it may hug your body, but without much roundness or shape. This is just a preference.
4. The collar could be a touch higher and hug more.

Overall I think it looks very good, but there are tiny things that I would change. Probably the only one necessary is #4. The others are just taste issues. The fabric looks very nice.

It is impossible to tell about the armholes, but I find the armholes on Borrelli jackets a bit extreme for some reason. Yours look better to me.


Yes, I did want a critique.

1. I hadn't noticed, but I haven't spent a lot of time in it yet. It's way too heavy for the current temperature and it's fully-lined.
2. It's just the picture.
3. I'm not certain by what you mean. I'll have to go back and look at your pics and see how I look in a full-length mirror, which I don't have at home. Can you explain what I'm looking for better? I'm skinny, meaning I have a fairly straight body.
4. I'll definitely bring this up for the next one. A solid suggestion. Thx.
RE: Crow's foot. I like it and specifically made sure they were done that way with the arrows point down. The normal cross-stitching is boring to me. If anyone but us nerds even notice it, I'd be surprised.
smile.gif


Getting back to Ed's question on the value proposition, it's a little less than similar RTW Borrelli at $2600cdn (for a jacket) and up. They achieve price-parity with Borrelli once you get in to cashmere, but for "regular" fabrics, it's a little cheaper. Suits start at ~$3400 iirc. I had stated earlier that they lost some of their value vs. NYC with a recent increase in price and decline of the USD, but after looking at recent prices in NY, I take that back. It's still very advantageous to do them here, even with a weaker exchange for americans. Now if you frequently travel to Naples, that's another story altogether...

In terms of cut he pretty-much nailed it after throwing-out my old pattern and starting-over. I haven't spent any time in it yet so I don't know how it will feel after wearing for a full day compared to my borrellis. My first impression is that it should be similar. The canvas he used is perfect. The jacket is very light and supple like a borrelli.

In terms of quality, I think he can compete with the top NYers (based on what I know and have seen) with the added benefit of being flexible concerning what style of suit or jacket you prefer. The finishing is truely excellent on the inside as well. As I said above, the pick-stitching isn't quite to my liking, but that's a stylistic thing. At some point they started doing it like that and it was popular with customers, especially with the thicker silk thread. The sewers do a very good job though, because the stitches are tight, clean and straight, but they just have to be explicity told to do it slightly differently imo. My next jacket should be the final test of that. Overall, I think he's a very good, and very adaptable cutter. He likes doing something different once in a while. He's also done suits and dresses for clients' wives and is really not stuck in any one school of thought.
 

rnoldh

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Originally Posted by mrchapel
Looks pretty good. Who's the maker?

+1

Unless I missed something. Who is the Bespoke maker and where are they?

Coat looks great. Do the lapels appear larger than they are due to the photo?
 

MrRogers

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Originally Posted by GQgeek
I left the oven on and my apartment was like a hundred degrees when I got back from salsa.

Between this and dropping chef's knives I'd say you should stay out of a kitchen

MrR
 

MilanoStyle

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I am thinking the maker is Harry Rosen bespoke service?
 

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