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Low gorge or high?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Stu, Nov 13, 2004.

  1. Stu

    Stu Distinguished Member

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    I'm going to see Chan on Monday. WIll get a standard conservative navy 2-button, besom pocket business suit. My question: I am a pretty regular sized guy:  42R, 5' 10" - 11" about 178-180 lbs. Not skinny, but certainly not a muscle head either. I was wondering whether I should go for a lower gorge or a higher gorge?

    On another topic, I'm thinking maybe single pleat trousers as a nice compromise from the more fashion forward flat front and a double pleat. I want this suit to be a horse for a long time in my stable, so I am eschewing flat front trousers.
     


  2. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Go with a high gorge and a high button stance. A lower gorge only flatters the really tall.
     


  3. jester

    jester Senior Member

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    At my Chan visit on Tuesday, I asked for a deep single pleat. Patrick seemed surprised.

    I smiled when I tried on (just for kicks, I can't afford it) an Attolini suit today, and it had a deep single pleat.
     


  4. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Good advice from Manton, as usual. Higher gorges are more flattering on most men. I would go with that unless you are deliberately going for a retro/vintage look (Which you are evidently not, at least in this case.)

    A variation that I've seen that is a departure from the high gorge and high button stance that is quite striking is the high gorge mid to low button stance. Dolce & Gabbana did their jackets this way a few seasons ago, so that that button essentially started close to the navel, to very striking effect. This is *not* nearly as ageworthy (or perhaps it is because it is so different) as the high gorge, high stance combo. All this is besides the point of course.

    I personally prefer flat front pants, but if you are going with even a single vent, make sure that the pants be cut to be worn at or just below the natural waist.
     


  5. HitMan009

    HitMan009 Senior Member

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    LA Guy,

    It's excellent you mention the high gorge, button stance around the natural waist look. This was the exact style I mentioned to Patrick to do. With this style, I believe it creates a very lean look emphasizing the shoulders and torso. I dunno if it would be considered fashion forward however. While it's definitely not a conserative suit cut, it is still within the tolerance allowed for it to be stylish and not fashion. But I don't know... It could be just wishful thinking on my part. I think getting flap pockets is better cause you can just tuck the flap in if you like and make it look like a besom(jetted) pocket. I definitely would liketo hear input from the gurus on this board.
     


  6. Brian SD

    Brian SD Moderator

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    There was a thread about this a week or so I believe, and most members opposed tucking in the flaps. Either leave them out, or get besom pockets.
     


  7. imageWIS

    imageWIS Stylish Dinosaur

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    (HitMan009 @ 14 Nov. 2004, 5:46) LA Guy, It's excellent you mention the high gorge, button stance around the natural waist look. This was the exact style I mentioned to Patrick to do. With this style, I believe it creates a very lean look emphasizing the shoulders and torso. I dunno if it would be considered fashion forward however. While it's definitely not a conserative suit cut, it is still within the tolerance allowed for it to be stylish and not fashion. But I don't know... It could be just wishful thinking on my part. I think getting flap pockets is better cause you can just tuck the flap in if you like and make it look like a besom(jetted) pocket. I definitely would liketo hear input from the gurus on this board.
    There was a thread about this a week or so I believe, and most members opposed tucking in the flaps. Either leave them out, or get besom pockets.
    Yes, I have to second the no-tucking flaps rule; either get besom pockets or flaps, but don't tuck them in, especially on a bespoke suit. Jon.
     


  8. imageWIS

    imageWIS Stylish Dinosaur

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    High gorge with a low button stance is a very English style...I have several Chester Barrie (RLPL) items that have high gorges with lower button stance and are definitely quite flattering on the right person, plus they counter the common occurrence of high gorge / high button stance that is prevailing in Italian suits these days...of course they are 3-button sports coats, so perhaps a 2-button model might not look quite right.

    Overall, I think to be on the safe side, as this is a business suit a higher button stance will be your best bet.

    Regarding the trousers, well, if you can pull off single pleats, I say go for it, they will be slimmer than double-pleated, but still have an air of business about them that is not normally conservatively acceptable with flat front trousers.

    Jon.
     


  9. HitMan009

    HitMan009 Senior Member

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    Hmm, if someone can point me to that thread, that would be great. My pockets are still stitched tight on my Chan suit. Even on the most well made suits, I understand that the pockets will eventually sag. Is this true?

    I personally don't see how tucking in the flaps is a bad thing. If the pockets have both the top and bottom made up like a besom pocket, how can anyone notice the difference?

    Thanks in Advance everyone
     


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