J. Cogburn
Senior Member
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2009
- Messages
- 654
- Reaction score
- 15
Backstory
Having now dropped 70 pounds and hitting goal weight (170), it is time to stop buying stop-gap clothing in the course of my descent down the weight scales and to rebuild the wardrobe in earnest. All I really have from my old life that I can keep are socks and ties. Hence, my clothing needs are vast.
Unfortunately, that means I could not manage to do what I had hoped, which is to go bespoke for the suits. I had hoped that English-American - the made-to-measure manufacturer for Tom James and H. Freeman suits in Westminster, MD - would be my initial source for the suits I need to get through the year, but alas, the blazer I picked-up from them yesterday was rather underwhelming. The shape was uninspiring and had even less panache than I might get from BB. Moreover, the fit was off and it needed three weeks more work. I left thinking that I would likely be disappointed if I anchored my business wardrobe with their work.
That left me with the world of OTR designer suits (for the time being anyway).
Black Label vs. Italian
I've tried-on most of the higher-end designer options but fell completely in love with Ralph's Black Label. He gives you one heck of a sharp silhouette without getting Tom Ford cartoony. The lapels are on the narrower side but they are within proportional reason. Moreover, the Black Label is far less expensive than the higher-end Italian alternatives (which I would have had to snag as opportunity arose in the second-hand market) and, for my frame anyway, look a lot better (I've got very square shoulders and a 7" drop at present, but look a little too columnar in the Brionis, too bulky in the Canolis, and rather "bleh" in the Kitons). Oh, and despite some recent confusion here on the matter, Black Label suits are fully canvassed.
The only down side is the limited selection of fabrics. You want a lighter navy? Tough. You want charcoal grey, not black or mid-grey? Tough. You want chalk stripes? Too bad. Nailhead or bird's eye in grey or blue? Dream on.
Oh well, I could only afford two suits at those prices anyway, so there was enough to make do. But damn, those are mighty-fine suits! A near-perfect blend of sexy fashion forward and classic British style.
Just sharing the love. Can't wait to pick them up next week.
Having now dropped 70 pounds and hitting goal weight (170), it is time to stop buying stop-gap clothing in the course of my descent down the weight scales and to rebuild the wardrobe in earnest. All I really have from my old life that I can keep are socks and ties. Hence, my clothing needs are vast.
Unfortunately, that means I could not manage to do what I had hoped, which is to go bespoke for the suits. I had hoped that English-American - the made-to-measure manufacturer for Tom James and H. Freeman suits in Westminster, MD - would be my initial source for the suits I need to get through the year, but alas, the blazer I picked-up from them yesterday was rather underwhelming. The shape was uninspiring and had even less panache than I might get from BB. Moreover, the fit was off and it needed three weeks more work. I left thinking that I would likely be disappointed if I anchored my business wardrobe with their work.
That left me with the world of OTR designer suits (for the time being anyway).
Black Label vs. Italian
I've tried-on most of the higher-end designer options but fell completely in love with Ralph's Black Label. He gives you one heck of a sharp silhouette without getting Tom Ford cartoony. The lapels are on the narrower side but they are within proportional reason. Moreover, the Black Label is far less expensive than the higher-end Italian alternatives (which I would have had to snag as opportunity arose in the second-hand market) and, for my frame anyway, look a lot better (I've got very square shoulders and a 7" drop at present, but look a little too columnar in the Brionis, too bulky in the Canolis, and rather "bleh" in the Kitons). Oh, and despite some recent confusion here on the matter, Black Label suits are fully canvassed.
The only down side is the limited selection of fabrics. You want a lighter navy? Tough. You want charcoal grey, not black or mid-grey? Tough. You want chalk stripes? Too bad. Nailhead or bird's eye in grey or blue? Dream on.
Oh well, I could only afford two suits at those prices anyway, so there was enough to make do. But damn, those are mighty-fine suits! A near-perfect blend of sexy fashion forward and classic British style.
Just sharing the love. Can't wait to pick them up next week.