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Lost a lot of weight. Have to start from new.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by DeusExMachina, Oct 15, 2013.

  1. DeusExMachina

    DeusExMachina Member

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    Hello,

    I'm 31 years old, I studied business and economics.
    Right now I am 183cm tall and 79 kg. Collar size 41-42. Chest circumference 90cm. Upper arm 38. Athletic build.
    I recently lost close to 30kg and will start a new (office) job, which is why except for socks I pretty much have to buy all new clothes. Even my winter coat looks like it belongs to my older brother ;-)
    My weight will stell decrease another 2 or 3kg and I'll add a bit of muscles, but the differences will be pretty negligible.

    As I've lost so much weight, all the suits and shirts I had bought over the years don't fit me anymore and I have to start pretty much from the beginning.

    I have 2 brown Joop suits size 98, which fit me well, one plain brown the other with pencil stripes and 3 nice ties.
    Out of my 25-30 shirts only maybe 5 fit my collar well, but they're all much too wide for my waist, two of which are white shirts that I wear for job interviews, even though slim fit, these white 41 collar Joop shirts are much too wide around the waist.
    I have quite a few Joop shirts that I would like to keep, if they were slimmer.

    After losing my own business money is rather tight, but I need to quickly my wardrobe to be dressed properly for all occasions.

    I also have another couple of Boss suits size 98, which are just plain too big for me. From reading some articles I found that altering them would probably not make sense. I'm not that fond of them anyways so I'm not opposed to the idea of selling them.

    About the suits. I was thinking about adding another 2 Joop 98 suits navy, light grey, dark grey, maybe used on ebay so as to not having to spend 1000 Euros on the suits.

    About the shirts: If I could have my existing shirts altered that would help me out a lot with my casual wear as I could wear those outside of the office. I do have a LOT of plain white and black Joop T-shirts that I would wear under he shirts.
    If there's a cheap source in Asia, where I could have a few shirts tailormade on the cheap, that might be a good idea.

    I will also need some pants, jumpers etc. to wear, when going out. I'll need a winter coat, maybe a thinner coat for autumn and spring, a scarf, and gloves (I have a pair a black suede gloves, which are nice, but they maybe look a bit worn)


    I would ask you to help me with 2 things:
    1. Put together a list of the items I should buy in order to be prepare. I still have some free time, so I can try on clothes, etc. By them time I start the job, the time constraints will be horrible, and I'll have to immediately be prepared to go to the office 5 times a week, while moving to a new city etc. So, I would like to do as much about this as I possibly can, right now.

    2. Give me advice on where I could source parts of my wardrobe, being on a budget and needing a lot at once. I live in Germany and am quite comfortable buying from abroad. So, maybe if I source other items from abroad aswell, maybe a coat etc. I would appreciate you giving me contact information or maybe some bargains I could used. I wouldn't even mind used-like new items.


    I really hope, someone can help. Thank you guys.
    If I can give you measurements or take pictures of things I have etc, to help the process, please let me know
     
  2. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    I will leave the wardrobe help to other guys, as I think they might give you more help, but this is a very nice problem to have. I'm a kinesiologist, so I cannot go without saying well done getting yourself fitter and healthier. Most of us who have never fought that battle do not know how difficult, nor what an accomplishment, it is. Hats off to you, sir!
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. DeusExMachina

    DeusExMachina Member

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    Thank you for the kind words.
    I'll stay off-topic for this post :)

    It might interest you to hear, that 6 years ago I went cold turkey off cigarettes. I had smoked 2-3 packs a day. Within 4 months after giving them up I gained from 78kg to almost 107kg. I went to see an endocrinologist, to find out if something was wrong with my thyroids.
    I tried quite a few different diets and found what worked for me and what didn't, which is different for everyone, I suppose.
    Swimming for example made me incredibly hungry, same as carbs gave me a lot of appetite an hour after I had eaten (I seem to have responded a lot to spikes in blood sugar levels)

    Now, I'm basically getting rid of the remaing jiggly layer and aim at 11-12% body fat. Within the next few weeks I should be able to run 10km in under 45minutes. I'm still battling the 10 wide-grip pullups (8 are my maximum right now). But there's still progress and I'm within 2kg of my target weight of 78kg. Seeing that 7 on the scale again last Friday was a big moment :)
    I should mention though that in my youth I played tennis at an almost professional level and did a lot of other sports. So, pushing my body to its limits (when you see all the coloured spots) every single time I work out, is not that big an issue for me.

    The problem (as nice as it is to be fitter, healthier and happier than I've been in a long time) still is a problem because the financial repercussions, just on the wardrobe alone will be a big hit, I'm afraid.
     
  4. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    It is a financial hit, but you'll probably have 15 or 20 more years of life to spread it over. Again, well done. And, getting on topic, of course navy and charcoal suits are your first stop. I've been considering getting a navy suit made with two different waistcoats - one db with lapels, one ordinary single breasted without lapels. This essentially makes it three suits - two three-piece versions, and a two-piece version. If you stick to solids, you can get by with fewer suits for longer.
     
  5. DeusExMachina

    DeusExMachina Member

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    I'll try to start the list myself:

    - Suits: I have the two brown ones and bought another 2 grey ones today. I'll try to get a navy one and maybe one more grey. I think that area is then covered :)

    - Shirts: I'll see tomorrow, if I can have at least some of my existing shirts altered. I'm not sure, what the best bang for the buck would be. Can I have a friend take my measurement and maybe someone give me a recommendation for an affordable tailor, who would make me a few more shirts (will I get other colours than white for the office?)

    - Socks: I read that I shouldn't wear black socks with brown and grey suits. So, what colours should I get? 3 pairs of light brown, 2 pairs of dark blue and 3 pairs of grey?

    - Ties: What colour, design and how many ties should I get for the basic brown, grey and navy suits? (given that I'll wear white shirts with them)

    - Shoes: I have black leather Ecco slippers, that are extremely comfortable to wear and a pair of brown leather shoes (with leather sole) with a flat toe box? I take it the black slippers are inacceptable for non black suits. So, how many pairs and what kinds should I be looking for? For the winter time with all the rain, I prefer to go with a rubber sole. (For dancing, of course, leather sole is choice)

    - Pocker Square: Should I get one?

    - Coat: What kind of coat should I get for winter to wear over the suits?

    - Gloves: Are the thin black suede gloves ok, or should I be looking for something else?

    - Scarf: Any suggestions on something that'll look classy and go with the coat?

    - Pants: for going out maybe 3-4

    - V-Neck jumpers: maybe 3 different ones to wear with white T-shirts underneath

    - Jeans: to go out and maybe for heavier duty things to do: 2 pairs


    That's as far as I've gotten. Any suggestions, what I've forgotten.
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2013
  6. DeusExMachina

    DeusExMachina Member

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    That is a very good list, thanks. Most of which I figured already.
    So, should I get a brown belt to go with the shoes instead of a black one?
     
  7. Gerry Nelson

    Gerry Nelson Senior member

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    Get one of each. They shouldn't have to cost much.

    If you do get a pocket square, a white linen one will serve you well.

    A navy overcoat will fit in with all you have so maybe a plain mid-grey scarf to go with it.

    Navy and grey socks will be fine.

    For the shirts, a mixture of say five white and blue spread collared shirts will do.

    In choosing colours, aim for stuff that can go with everything else you will wear with it - the key will be versatility. You will pretty much be able to reach into the closet and pick out stuff without having to give too much thought to it.

    Ties - these two posts will help:
    http://putthison.com/post/5802225399/the-necktie-series-part-iii-starting-your
    http://putthison.com/post/1644340218/mostexerent-great-example-of-what-to-start

    Navy ties will go with the brown, navy and grey suits so start with those and you won't have to worry too much.

    I would consider getting a pair of black lace up shoes as well.

    What you've left off that I can see:

    A casual coat or two (pea coat/harrington/field jacket)
    Casual shoes (e.g. brown suede chukka boots)
     
  8. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    Don't buy new shirts if they still fit in the collar. Have a tailor sim them down, and or put darts in them.
     
  9. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    If you've just bought two grey suits, don't buy another one. Get a blue one, but that'll be five suits, which is more than enough for now. Though to be honest, I'd never wear the brown suit with stripes.

    Where are you from? Near Frankfurt?
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2013
  10. OlafG

    OlafG Senior member

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    There is a big world of good shoes to choose from if you look beyond Ecco. Watch out though, as it might become an addiction...

    You should at least get a dark brown or black (depending on your work place) balmoral captoe
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2013
  11. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    Ach du heilige Scheiß. First of all, burn your shoes. Then go buy new ones. Go to Görtz. Do not spend less than €200. Do not wear "slippers". Do not wear Ecco. Do not wear flat toe boxes. :brick:

    Come to Frankfurt, I'll take you shopping. :D
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2013
  12. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    Last edited: Oct 16, 2013
  13. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    The easy thing to do is to match your socks to your trousers. But I find that burgundy socks always look very nice with grey or blue trousers.
     
  14. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    You should have some light blue shirts too for office wear. Ties should be various shades of blue, some burgundy, some grey. No yellow, no bright red.

    Ansons is your best bet.
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2013
  15. DeusExMachina

    DeusExMachina Member

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    Thanks for all your replies. Let's take it from the top.

    I have quite a few shirt that would fit on the collar 41-42, but I would like them in slimmer fit.
    What do you think they'd charge me per shirt? They're mostly Joop, some Abrams and the odd Zara shirt.
    I have about 5 white ones, that I can wear even now. So, that would be covered. The others are more for recreational purposes.
    These are the suits that I bought

    http://www.ebay.de/itm/331039196714
    http://www.ebay.de/itm/171149122435
    http://www.ebay.de/itm/111186636765
    http://www.ebay.de/itm/111186634549
    http://www.ebay.de/itm/111186617342
    http://www.ebay.de/itm/131020898958
    http://www.ebay.de/itm/131020884430

    Thanks for the advice on the shoes, though a bit unpractical as I'd have to go to Görtz barefoot, which I would like to avoid.
    I have to say, I've loved all the Ecco shoes that I've had so far, They were exceptionally comfortable to wear, which is very helpful, when you actually walk in the shoes. I've had Lloyd, Boss and Joop shoes aswell. I always had a fondness for suede Joop shoes, but I guess, that's not acceptable with a business suit, or is it?

    I'm from lower Bavaria, some 400km from Frankfurt, but I've lived in the area and have some friends there that I should visit. Thank you very much for your offer. I'll definitely take you up on that. I used to do a lot of my shopping in Metzingen, which was always a good place to go for Joop and Boss. At some point over ten years ago Boss seems to have changed theirr cut

    We'll have to talk strategy on how much money I'll need to save and what we'll go for. I had my mother in law took my measurements today. She's altering my suit pants (of the two brown ones) by tomorrow. So, I can tell you those now at least.
    In terms of shirts, I'm set, I think, maybe altering some of the ones I have and getting 2 blue ones (I don't have any of those).

    Maybe it would make sense to take some pictures of the ties that I have (they're not the colours you suggested) But I'll buy some navy and grey ones anyways. I'm of course open to suggestions.

    About the shoes: I still don't get it: What suit colours do I wear brown shoes to and which ones do I wear black shoes to? I was under the impression that black shoes only go with black or maybe grey trousers.

    Burgundy socks with blue trousers? I guess, I'll need someone to lay out my clothes in the morning. ;-)
    That would not have occurred to me.
     
  16. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    €10 per shirt.
     
  17. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    Dark brown shoes look great with suits that are blue or grey.
    Black shoes look great with grey suits, navy blue suits, and if it's night time, black suits.

    EDIT: http://www.styleforum.net/t/344166/infographics-about-mens-fashion/0_100#post_6462385
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2013
  18. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    If you want exceptional comfort, wear tennis shoes all day. If you want to look like a well-dressed, professional adult, wear the shoes I showed you.

    Joop and Boss are fashion labels. They don't make shoes. You wouldn't buy a car or a watch because it's made by Joop or Boss because they aren't car or watch companies. Görtz is a shoe company. They make shoes. Good shoes.

    You can spend €100 on shitty shoes that fall apart after one year and look like shit the entire time. Or, you can spend €200 or €300 for great shoes that will look great for 10 or 15 years.

    Life is too short to wear shit.

    EDIT: Suede shoes are ok, but they should be your fourth or fifth pair. The other pairs are more useful.
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2013
  19. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    Burgundy, blue, brown or grey socks will look great with blue or grey trousers. Since you should only be wearing blue or grey in the daytime anyway (except tan in the summertime), you could choose your socks with your eyes closed and it'll look good. For example: http://frankfurtstyle.tumblr.com/post/38159327008
     

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