Looking to tailor a dual-use jacket

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dbc, Dec 28, 2009.

  1. dbc

    dbc Senior member

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    Hey folks,
    I'm looking to tailor a charcoal colored jacket for use in both a business setting and for dressy-casual occasions. Perhaps something along the lines of this:

    [​IMG]

    Hoping you can help me out here. I'm looking at something relatively slim so is there anything I should mention to my tailor on top of the following?

    - Double vents
    - Two button
    - Narrow lapels (How narrow can I go without it being too informal?)
    - High armholes (How high do I go? I read somewhere on SF that its the height between my thumb and little finger extended?)
    - What do you recommend I specify with regards to pockets?


    Also, I live in Singapore which is perenially scorching. So ideally I'm looking for something quite lightweight. I've read about Thomas Mason cotton and David & John Anderson but the former seems quite pricey and I don't know any tailors here who carry the latter.

    Any help is much appreciated. Thanks!
     
  2. dbc

    dbc Senior member

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    Oh and yes if anyone can help on top of this, where should the suit end (which part of the bottom) and can I ask for a Neapolitan-esque padding?
     
  3. luftvier

    luftvier Senior member

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    Do you already own similar jackets at all, or is this your first foray into tailored clothing generally?
     
  4. dbc

    dbc Senior member

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    First foray, yup.
     
  5. dbc

    dbc Senior member

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    Any body, please?
     
  6. brittain

    brittain Senior member

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    My only suggestions are to not go with a lapel as skinny as the model is wearing, and to not get besom pockets like he has. I think besom pockets are better off on more formal jackets. As far as the length, most will tell you it should come to the first joint of your fingers. For something that slim with smaller lapels, you could probably get a way with it being a little shorter than that if you like.
     
  7. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Blue rather than gray.
     
  8. hymo

    hymo Senior member

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    Mohair for tropical climate. And avoid Joe's.
     
  9. dbc

    dbc Senior member

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    Thanks folks.

    Is around 2" for a lapel too narrow? I'm probably looking at a notched one.

    I'll be looking closely at mohair, thanks for the suggestion!

    If somebody and just help with the armholes and shoulder padding queries, I'll be off to the tailor soon [​IMG]
     
  10. hymo

    hymo Senior member

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    2 inch is most definitely too narrow.

    Armholes and shoulder padding is a matter of negotiation with your tailor. You'll find out if you've won or lost when you collect the suit.
     
  11. dbc

    dbc Senior member

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    Ok folks, thanks for all the help.

    Just got a bespoke 2 piece charcoal made the other day. 2 3/4 inch lapels. Double vent, two button. Thought screw it about the climate (since I travel a bit), and got a Super 130 wool. Fitting next Tuesday.

    Anything besides the usual (high and tight armholes, back doesn't crumple, jacket stays on shirt collar, length at first joint of thumb) that I should be looking for?

    Cheers.
     
  12. amplifiedheat

    amplifiedheat Senior member

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    Just got a bespoke 2 piece charcoal made the other day. 2 3/4 inch lapels. Double vent, two button. Thought screw it about the climate (since I travel a bit), and got a Super 130 wool. Fitting next Tuesday.

    Anything besides the usual (high and tight armholes, back doesn't crumple, jacket stays on shirt collar, length at first joint of thumb) that I should be looking for?


    The lapels are still rather narrow. Men do not follow the fashions.

    As for fit, there's no reason to measure length by the thumb. Arm length varies too much. If it doesn't cover your bum, it's too short. Substantially more, and it's too long. Trust the tailor on this one.

    Finally, a charcoal suit jacket will never be anything but a charcoal suit jacket. It is certainly not a dual-use item.
     
  13. dbc

    dbc Senior member

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    The lapels are still rather narrow. Men do not follow the fashions.

    As for fit, there's no reason to measure length by the thumb. Arm length varies too much. If it doesn't cover your bum, it's too short. Substantially more, and it's too long. Trust the tailor on this one.

    Finally, a charcoal suit jacket will never be anything but a charcoal suit jacket. It is certainly not a dual-use item.


    Thank you for your comments, I'll bear that in mind when I go for the fitting.

    WRT to the dual-use comment, I think what I meant by that was a suit that's suitable for work and other occasions, like a suit-up occasion at a club. No going to pair it with jeans [​IMG]
     
  14. amplifiedheat

    amplifiedheat Senior member

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    Thank you for your comments, I'll bear that in mind when I go for the fitting.

    WRT to the dual-use comment, I think what I meant by that was a suit that's suitable for work and other occasions, like a suit-up occasion at a club. No going to pair it with jeans [​IMG]


    Glad to hear it. Suit up!
     
  15. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Also, I live in Singapore which is perenially scorching. So ideally I'm looking for something quite lightweight. I've read about Thomas Mason cotton and David & John Anderson but the former seems quite pricey and I don't know any tailors here who carry the latter.

    Any help is much appreciated. Thanks!


    These are brands of shirting fabrics not cloth for suits.
     

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