Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Looking to invest in one bespoke suit, what features to get?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by DGP, Jul 16, 2006.

  1. DGP

    DGP Senior member

    Messages:
    2,100
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    I have decided to "invest" in one suit tailor made just for me. Cost really isn't an object, and I was looking at some of the upper end makers, like Oxxford. This will be my nice suit, for more special events than just going to work. That said, I want a relatively timeless look that is also flattering on me, at 6'1, 175. I had been thinking a high two-button with flat front pants, but besides that, what else should I make sure to get as features on the suit, and what do I have to pay attention to?
     


  2. A Y

    A Y Senior member

    Messages:
    5,598
    Likes Received:
    381
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    Location:
    Southern California
    Have you thought about using a real bespoke tailor instead? No offense to Oxxford, but I don't think they can get you a bespoke suit in the same way that a bespoke tailor who makes a pattern for you can. The costs will be comparable, too. In either case, I think you may have to do more than one suit to really get the fit and everything else correct, and the bespoke tailor may take longer than Oxxford.

    --Andre
     


  3. Edward Appleby

    Edward Appleby Senior member

    Messages:
    3,246
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2005
    Location:
    Cambridge/Texas
    I have decided to "invest" in one suit tailor made just for me. Cost really isn't an object, and I was looking at some of the upper end makers, like Oxxford. This will be my nice suit, for more special events than just going to work. That said, I want a relatively timeless look that is also flattering on me, at 6'1, 175. I had been thinking a high two-button with flat front pants, but besides that, what else should I make sure to get as features on the suit, and what do I have to pay attention to?
    Oxxford does what you're talking about, namely the Radcliffe, but I'd try it on RTW before commiting to it, as reactions to it are mixed. I tried one on in Korshak, and liked it, until I tried to raise my arms. The armholes are higher than a normal Oxxford, but still too low for the type of suit they're trying to do, IMHO.

    Given what you're looking for (high 2B for a thin, tall frame), I'd suggest Savile Row, if you get around to London enough.
     


  4. JR_Rider

    JR_Rider Senior member

    Messages:
    174
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2006
    Location:
    Bull City, NC
    Slanted pockets, with a ticket pocket and functional buttonholes, side vents, and you'll be good to go!!
     


  5. Edward Appleby

    Edward Appleby Senior member

    Messages:
    3,246
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2005
    Location:
    Cambridge/Texas
    Slanted pockets, with a ticket pocket and functional buttonholes, side vents, and you'll be good to go!!
    Slanted pockets on a suit call to my mind Banana Republic.
     


  6. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

    Messages:
    25,745
    Likes Received:
    238
    Joined:
    May 24, 2002
    Location:
    Constantinople
    Oxxford does MTM, not bespoke per se.
     


  7. Get Smart

    Get Smart Don't Crink

    Messages:
    12,158
    Likes Received:
    67
    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2004
    Location:
    A town called Malice
    Slanted pockets on a suit call to my mind Banana Republic.

    BR flirted with British details last fall, but I don't really see them doing that anymore as the stores all have normal straight flap pockets. Slanted pockets to me say "cool brittania" a la Ozwald, Paul Smith, Richard James etc
     


  8. Edward Appleby

    Edward Appleby Senior member

    Messages:
    3,246
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2005
    Location:
    Cambridge/Texas
    BR flirted with British details last fall, but I don't really see them doing that anymore as the stores all have normal straight flap pockets. Slanted pockets to me say "cool brittania" a la Ozwald, Paul Smith, Richard James etc
    Yeah, they used to do the same for me, but the market was so saturated with them that now they seem like an affectation to me. Plus the fact that they're a riding feature makes them a bit odd on a suit.
     


  9. Get Smart

    Get Smart Don't Crink

    Messages:
    12,158
    Likes Received:
    67
    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2004
    Location:
    A town called Malice
    Slanted pockets, with a ticket pocket and functional buttonholes, side vents, and you'll be good to go!!

    That pretty much describes *my* perfect suit for the past 10+ years.
     


  10. pejsek

    pejsek Senior member

    Messages:
    938
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2004
    Given your body size and what you're looking for, I don't think I would suggest bespoke or mtm. At 6'1" 175 lbs you are not difficult to fit (unless you have some really unusual physical anomalies hidden in that fairly standard frame). A relationship with a bespoke tailor really is just that, a relationship, and it is probably too much to expect the first suit one has made to be the suit of one's dreams (actually, I think the only way to get true perfection from bespoke is to go with one of the top tailors and let them understand from both words and deeds that you expect to have suits made frequently and for quite some time--which is why I get my bespoke the economical way, by thrifting). Since you are prepared to spend money, I would suggest looking for a great rtw suit from someplace with a sterling reputation for good alterations. Oxxford would certainly fit that bill, but so would many others. One of the big advantages of rtw is that there will be no guessing about the final result and the responsibility for getting the alterations right will lie with the store. You will thus be free to concentrate on the silhouette and the cloth. If you're not looking for something for everyday use you might consider a luxurious cloth. I have a Zegna 15milmil suit that I wear 1-2 a year. I wouldn't choose something like this for the workday, but it's really nice for the odd social occasion.
     


  11. alflauren

    alflauren Senior member

    Messages:
    486
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    Los Angeles, CA
    That pretty much describes *my* perfect suit for the past 10+ years.

    Same here, except I don't like vents. Can't quite decide on flat front/no cuff pants or single pleat/cuffed pants though. So I just get two pair. [​IMG]
     


  12. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

    Messages:
    2,455
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2005
    Judging by your overall body of posts, I doubt Oxxford will make a suit that satisfies your taste. I, too, recommend you figure out what kind of silhouette you prefer and then use a bespoke tailor to get this bespoke suit,
     


  13. kitonbrioni

    kitonbrioni Senior member

    Messages:
    5,496
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2004
    Given your body size and what you're looking for, I don't think I would suggest bespoke or mtm. At 6'1" 175 lbs you are not difficult to fit (unless you have some really unusual physical anomalies hidden in that fairly standard frame). A relationship with a bespoke tailor really is just that, a relationship, and it is probably too much to expect the first suit one has made to be the suit of one's dreams (actually, I think the only way to get true perfection from bespoke is to go with one of the top tailors and let them understand from both words and deeds that you expect to have suits made frequently and for quite some time--which is why I get my bespoke the economical way, by thrifting). Since you are prepared to spend money, I would suggest looking for a great rtw suit from someplace with a sterling reputation for good alterations. Oxxford would certainly fit that bill, but so would many others. One of the big advantages of rtw is that there will be no guessing about the final result and the responsibility for getting the alterations right will lie with the store. You will thus be free to concentrate on the silhouette and the cloth. If you're not looking for something for everyday use you might consider a luxurious cloth. I have a Zegna 15milmil suit that I wear 1-2 a year. I wouldn't choose something like this for the workday, but it's really nice for the odd social occasion.

    Thank your for cutting through the fog and clearly stating lowdone on bespoke.
     


  14. designprofessor

    designprofessor Senior member

    Messages:
    2,483
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2006
    Location:
    tornado alley
    If I were getting the bespoke, I wouldn't keep it in the closet for the just the special occasion. I'd wear it and often. If its as timeless and durable as is claimed, I'd have them measure up another one.
     


  15. A Y

    A Y Senior member

    Messages:
    5,598
    Likes Received:
    381
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    Location:
    Southern California
    Thank your for cutting through the fog and clearly stating lowdone on bespoke.

    I disagree. That was a pretty incomplete and shallow assessment of bespoke, because he wasn't taking anything else into account other than height and weight. For example, most people have asymmetric shoulders. Nor did he consider the kinds of things a custom pattern allows you to do, like very high armholes that let the collar sit on your neck no matter what your arms are doing. RTW is full of compromises to fit a large fraction of the population, hence the relatively low armholes. There was also no consideration of the skilled eye and judgment of a good bespoke tailor --- with RTW you are relying on yourself and the unreliable eye of a random alterations tailor who may or may not understand the design philosophy of the suit being altered to get the fit and balance of a suit correct.

    And I don't see how RTW frees you up to worry about the cloth and silhouette. The first and probably most important thing you decide with a bespoke tailor is the kind of cloth you want to use. Silhouette is determined partly by house style, and also discussions with the tailor. If anything, bespoke lets you focus even more on those two aspects.

    --Andre
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by