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Looking into Tweed jacket....

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by The_Foxx, Jul 4, 2006.

  1. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Distinguished Member

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    OK, so I've decided to buy a very fine quality tweed sportcoat in NYC this year (when the fall clothing comes out)

    The two brands I'm basically considering (for handstitching, overall quality, etc.) are Turnbull and Asser [i liked the buttonholes on their jackets, etc.] and Luigi Borrelli [I've always wanted to own a Luigi Borrelli sportcoat]

    I'm pretty much looking for a basic, mini herringbone pattern in black and brown, or maybe something that would replicate the look of Connery's Bond in Goldfinger, post golf match and tooling around europe [complete with suede chukka boots and solid knit tie]

    Any advice as to what I should expect to pay, etc. would be appreciated! I'm not really looking at other brands, as I want to ensure I get nice buttonholes and a nice "cut" of the jacket, unless you know something that would be of similar quality for the same basic cost.

    Thanks~!

    *since I can't open threads labelled with p-o-r-n in the title, here's my contribution-- my new Lobb Suttons, prestige model, are currently one of the shoes featured on the www.johnlobb.com website. pretty cool!
     


  2. Roger

    Roger Distinguished Member

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    Foxx, aren't you considering two lines (both outstanding in their own right) that will produce quite different jacket silhouettes? Although I'm not familiar with the T&A cut, I would expect it to have a fair amount of Savile Row influence in it--perhaps quite a bit of structure and a slightly more formal look to it. The Borrelli cut, on the other hand, will manifest what Manton, in his recent book, has called "the drape" cut, in its somewhat uniquely Neapolitan incarnation--a little more relaxed, but still quite dressy in the Italian way, with less structure through the chest, less shoulder padding, and the wonderful (to my eye) shirred, or pleated, sleeveheads. It's hard to imagine the Borrelli having less hand-stitching than the T&A; my guess would be that it will have more.

    In the end it comes down to which cut you like better. I've become enamoured with the Neapolitan style as seen in Kiton, Borrelli, and, in its most extreme form, perhaps, Attolini. As for replicating Sean Connery's look in Goldfinger, my guess is that the T&A would probably do this better, as it's likely he was wearing Savile Row at that stage of the Bond series. Either way, you should be able to find your herringbone pattern, I think, and either way it should be a great jacket.
     


  3. kitonbrioni

    kitonbrioni Distinguished Member

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    Perhaps you should go bespoke given the many outlet in NYC? That way you get the cut, fit, fabric, button-holes, etc exactly the way you want them.
     


  4. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Senior Member

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    Your best bet is to call the stores to get an idea of the cost.

    I believe that Borrelli is about $2,400 +, and Turnbull will be about $2,000+. I'm assuming that we want a tweed rather than cashmere.

    The selection at the Borrelli store will be very limted. Turnbull will have a little more. You may have to go MTM or bespoke.

    Good luck.
     


  5. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Distinguished Member

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    wow, that's more than i thought for a little T&A. I guess with the prices so close, i might go with either one-- but prefer the Borrelli if i can find what i want in my size. I was hoping to find it for around $1800, but....oh, well. When I'm in NYC I will still have some tax-exempt money to spend on sartorial stuff!

    thanks for the details, guys!
     


  6. horton

    horton Senior Member

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    I will second the recommendation of bespoke, especially if the fabric pattern you're conisidering is fairly classic.
     


  7. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Distinguished Member

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    i don't think bespoke is a reality for me....we're talking about a single trip to the big apple, so there would be no way for me to return for multiple fittings. this is the primary reason i go for higher end makers, i think-- it just isn't feasible for me to return to a city in a few weeks/ month for a fitting or two.

    hmmm....well, i'll check out both sources in NYC and maybe add Oxxford Radcliff to my list, but will likely go with an english cut from Turnbull.

    thanks, gents!
     


  8. SGladwell

    SGladwell Distinguished Member

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    hmmm....well, i'll check out both sources in NYC and maybe add Oxxford Radcliff to my list, but will likely go with an english cut from Turnbull.

    Can you get an Oxxford Crittenden in NYC? That's a truly beautiful silhouette. Oxxford's best by miles, IMO.
     


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