• I'm happy to introduce the Styleforum Happy Hour, our brand new podcast featuring lively discussion about menswear and the fashion industry. In the inaugural edition, a discussion of what's going on in retail today. Please check it out on the Journal. All episodes will be also be available soon on your favorite podcast platform.

  • Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 3: Yeossal handwelted shoe with lasted shoe trees

    We are very proud to present this year's edition of the Styleforum Holiday Charity Auctions, this year in support of the Ronald McDonald House Charities of Spokane (www.rmhcspokane.org). Each Auction lasts 24 hours. Please follow and bid on all the auctions.

    The 2nd auction is for a pair of handwelted shoe with lasted shoe trees courtesy of Yeossal. Please bid often and generously here

    Fok and the Styleforum Team.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

looking for suit fabric recommendations

montmorency

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2004
Messages
188
Reaction score
0
I am getting ready to have my tailor make me a suit. I want a solid navy worsted in a spring-summer-fall weight. He has fabric books by Scabal, Loro Piana, Charles Clayton, a couple of Holland & Sherry, GRM, and I think some other odds and ends. Nothing by Lesser or Harrisons and since this would be the first suit he is making for me, I don't think I would want to pay for a Lesser or Harrisons fabric anyway. Does anyone have any specific recommendations out of these choices?
 

whoopee

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2005
Messages
2,455
Reaction score
4
You know your own comfort range but any fabric I found appropriate for spring/fall wouldn't be comfortable in the summer. Try H&S Snowy River (100s) and Target (120s). They are 10/11 ozs and better than the comparable Scabal offerings. The 13oz Perennial book is very good, too, if you are willing to forego the summer requirement. It is not as heavy as it sounds. For summer/late spring/early fall, try the H&S Crispaires. They make excellent suits, especially the mohair/wool.
 

norcaltransplant

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2003
Messages
2,458
Reaction score
71
I second the recommendation of the Holland & Sherry Snowy River. They seem to be cheaper than comparable cloths by LP, and definitely less than Scabal. A lot of Chan customers seemed to be pretty happy with the VBC specials that were offered two or three years ago, and less than estatic with the recent LP samples. FWIW, my last MTM experiment was cut from a Charles Clayton 130s worsted (LS Clothing/H.Freeman MTM). It was really affordable, but I'm kind of wishing that I upgraded to Holland and Sherry for such a basic.
 

montmorency

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2004
Messages
188
Reaction score
0
I have heard good things about Holland & Sherry too. All my tailor said about them was that they were owned by Brooks Brothers (which I had never heard before, despite reading posts on this board regularly). In my mind, that doesn't mean that the fabrics H&S offers in its books are the same as what are found in OTR suits at Brooks.

Norcaltransplant, do you think that a 10 oz. Snowy River would be wearable in NYC during the summer?

I have one MTM suit made out of a VBC flannel. I'm not thrilled with how the fabric holds its shape. It shows more in the pants than the suit, because the interlining in the suit gives it structure.
 

whoopee

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2005
Messages
2,455
Reaction score
4
They are not owned by Brooks, but by Individualized Apparel Group, which also own Oxxford, H. Freeman, and Individualized Shirts, among others.
 

Tomasso

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2006
Messages
4,078
Reaction score
13
Originally Posted by montmorency
I have heard good things about Holland & Sherry too.

Pound for pound, probably the best fabric merchant operating today.
 

whoopee

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2005
Messages
2,455
Reaction score
4
Best large merchant, at least.
 

Tomasso

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2006
Messages
4,078
Reaction score
13
Originally Posted by whoopee
Best large merchant, at least.
Who else has their breadth of offerings?
 

whoopee

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2005
Messages
2,455
Reaction score
4
Which is why I added the "large" designation. "Pound for pound" implies that merchants' relative sizes would not be a criterion in assessing them; all I would consider, then, is cloth quality. The heavyweight H&S would probably take down middleweight LBD/Harrisons and welterweight Lesser straight up, but since one is interested in individual cloths and will not limit oneself to a single merchant for all its offerings, such a comparison wouldn't be applicable. When comparing similarly designated cloths across the three, my choice for the best would unlikely be H&S.
 

Tomasso

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2006
Messages
4,078
Reaction score
13
Originally Posted by whoopee
"Pound for pound" implies that merchants' relative size
Yes, I misspoke. I should say that if I was forced to deal with only one merchant, it would be H&S.
 

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
6,549
Reaction score
1,914
I concur with the H&S Snowy River and Target 120's choices.
The Scabal books to look at in the same category as these are the 2 Saville Row books. Good patterns, good hand.
 

Holdfast

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Mar 10, 2006
Messages
10,562
Reaction score
6,347
Definitely agree with H&S Snowy River, Target and also Perennial - they all have some lovely classic patterns and a decent hand.

If they have it, and you want something a bit jazzier, try Dormeuil's Royal 12 book as well.

Loro Piana's books are very nice indeed, but somewhat more expensive. I have yet to find a "must-have" Scabal cloth, personally.
 

montmorency

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2004
Messages
188
Reaction score
0
I'm just looking for a solid navy, no patterns. Do any of these H&A books have solids?
 

whoopee

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2005
Messages
2,455
Reaction score
4
All of the suiting collections mentioned have solids.
 

william

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 12, 2006
Messages
1,554
Reaction score
1
I'm in a similar position and have been directed towards 10oz worsted (I live in Atlanta). Would it be possible to use a heavier weight with an unlined or quarter-lined design? I should add that the suit I'm ordering will only be used at night and indoors. So scorching summer days shouldn't factor into the equation.
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

How many pairs of shoes do you own?

  • 1 - 4

    Votes: 25 3.4%
  • 5 - 10

    Votes: 129 17.5%
  • 11 - 20

    Votes: 235 31.9%
  • 21 - 30

    Votes: 116 15.7%
  • 31 - 40

    Votes: 67 9.1%
  • 41 - 50

    Votes: 46 6.2%
  • 51 - 60

    Votes: 23 3.1%
  • 61 - 70

    Votes: 21 2.8%
  • 71 - 80

    Votes: 15 2.0%
  • 81 - 90

    Votes: 6 0.8%
  • 91 - 100

    Votes: 7 0.9%
  • 100+

    Votes: 47 6.4%

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
428,561
Messages
9,220,423
Members
193,559
Latest member
jamalopu1
Top