Looking for Advice Re: Problems with Made-to-Measure Suit

[Glen Plaid]

I'm writing to request the advice of more experienced forum members with respect to a disappointing initial foray into made-to-measure suits.

I recently visited a local merchant to be fitted for my first made-to-measure suit. The website advertised Hickey Freeman M2M suits; the proprietor informed me though that a Hickey Freeman suit wouldn't fit my frame and instead sold me a Coppley M2M suit for $840. For the record, I'm 5'9", slim and muscular. I've begun purchasing more expensive work clothes because otherwise folks (perhaps including this merchant) often think I'm 24 (rather than 30). I opted for M2M because, among other reasons, my shoulders and chest are large relative to my waist and, like I told the merchant, I wanted a snug-fitting suit.

The suit came in about 8 business days later and, when I tried it on, it was a disaster. There were huge folds of excess material in the back underneath my armpits. Meanwhile, there was zero tapering. It looked like I was wearing a cartoon silouette of a house. The fit was substantially inferior to what I get in an off-the-rack Hugo Boss, DKNY, Brooks Brothers Fitzgerald, etc.

The merchant tried to convince me to take the suit jacket without alterations; I made a fuss and, at the first fitting, he agreed to taper the suit and, at the second, he agreed to have his tailor open up the back of the suit and cut out the extra fabric. I'm supposed to stop by in a couple days to pick up the finished product.

I'm trying to understand how I should approach this (hopefully final) interaction. Here are my specific questions:

1. Do folks have an opinion about the merchant's judgment and good faith when he put me in the Coppley suit rather than the Hickey Freeman suit? I'm suspicious because his stated reason (the fit) doesn't make a lot of sense in light of the end product.

2. Is there a way for me to determine whether the merchant actually ordered a M2M suit from Coppley as opposed to fitting me with an off-the-rack suit? This merchant also carries off-the-rack Coppley suits; and the suit he gave me had working button holes, which I'd chosen not to pay for.

3. Assuming (fingers crossed) that the tailor eventually alters the suit so that it fits, then should I care that the final product had to be taken apart by the tailor? Is the suit more likely to wear out and/or are there problems I should look for before I take receipt of the suit?

4. Is $840 an appropriate price for my Coppley suit (assuming it fits)?

5. Above all, am I justified feeling indignant about this experience? Or is this par for the course when you're trying to buy somewhat customized clothing on the relative cheap?

Thanks in advance for your advice.

 

[Nicola]

Originally Posted by Glen Plaid

5. Above all, am I justified feeling indignant about this experience? .


Depends on a couple of things in my mind. How much did you push what you wanted? It sounds like we have similar builds and I always have to push what I want over what they are used to. The average North American guy is built a little like a water barrel. They get confused if you aren't.

I've no idea how the stock suit is cut. Is it baggy to begin with? You need to start with something that is close to begin with.

I'd be pissed but then I would have pushed hard to make sure they knew what I wanted.

 

[Sator]

Better M2M places have coats you can try on. They then note down the changes required to the coats. You should be able to see what alterations they are making on the spot.

Especially since you went for a cheaper service you should have asked more questions eg how much waist suppression? How much shorter/longer? Also why is the Coppley a better cut for your body? It sounds like he had other motivations for pushing the Coppley onto you.

The moral of the story is to always shop around and ask plenty of informed questions.

 

[CharlestonBows]

Originally Posted by Glen Plaid

1. Do folks have an opinion about the merchant's judgment and good faith when he put me in the Coppley suit rather than the Hickey Freeman suit? I'm suspicious because his stated reason (the fit) doesn't make a lot of sense in light of the end product. 2. Is there a way for me to determine whether the merchant actually ordered a M2M suit from Coppley as opposed to fitting me with an off-the-rack suit? This merchant also carries off-the-rack Coppley suits; and the suit he gave me had working button holes, which I'd chosen not to pay for. 3. Assuming (fingers crossed) that the tailor eventually alters the suit so that it fits, then should I care that the final product had to be taken apart by the tailor? Is the suit more likely to wear out and/or are there problems I should look for before I take receipt of the suit? 4. Is $840 an appropriate price for my Coppley suit (assuming it fits)? 5. Above all, am I justified feeling indignant about this experience? Or is this par for the course when you're trying to buy somewhat customized clothing on the relative cheap? Thanks in advance for your advice.
1. I don't know that his reason makes a whole lot of sense. That said, my experience lies more with Coppley than with Hickey. 2. Try on one of his stock suits in your size. Make sure it's the same model that he was supposed to make for you -- for instance, Coppley's Biella (my choice) model will fit differently from their Cantoni (or whatever the new name is). Considering the fit issue you describe, it might be possible - but I doubt it, since it has working surgeon cuffs. (Most Coppley that I've seen usually comes working ready). More likely is that he just doesn't know his models, or doesn't know how to work a measurement tape. 3. Should you mind? Well, that depends on the fit. If it fits, then it fits. Alterations aren't going to make it wear any faster, but hacking up a suit will effect fit. But I'd still be pissed that it was so cocked up originally. The smart thing for him to do - if fit was that bad - would be to remake it. 4. $840 isn't bad, and might be a little cheap, depending on fabric range. From my experience, the bulk of Coppley fabric ranges hovers right under a grand. Also depends on if he put you in Coppley's "Accumeasure" MTM or "Made-to-Measure" MTM. 5. Yes, you are totally justified. Fit is what going custom is all about. Should you expect some modifications to be made on your first? Yes, of course. Should you look like you're wearing someone else's suit? Not at all. If the guy doesn't know how his vendors work, how his models fit, and how to properly measure, it's gonna turn out bad. I speak from both sides of the transaction, both as a retailer and as a customer. All just IMHO, of course.

 

[Glen Plaid]

Thanks to CharlestonBows, Sator and Nicola for your extremely helpful responses. Next time, I'll ask to try on a stock suit and to see and understand the particular modifications.

My situation with the current suit now seems clear. If it fits, then no harm no foul; I got a good suit for a good price. If it still doesn't fit, then I'll ask that the merchant either have the suit remade or refund my money (his choice).

I look forward to continuing to participate in this forum.

 

[acidboy]

Welcome to the forum. Your merchant sounds like he could excel in selling used cars. Most of the time I avoid doing business with people like that- and making you accept the suit sans alterations and ill-fitting at that is a definite sign for me to just walk away. I do hope you get satisfaction from the alterations they're making, and without compromise at that.

 

[SlamMan]

I'd definately go somewhere else next time. If you have other suits that you like the fit, or are at least close, you should wear that in when so the tailor has an idea of where you'd like to be.

 

[taxgenius]

Originally Posted by Glen Plaid

1. Do folks have an opinion about the merchant's judgment and good faith when he put me in the Coppley suit rather than the Hickey Freeman suit? I'm suspicious because his stated reason (the fit) doesn't make a lot of sense in light of the end product.


I agree with the merchant. He would know how th end result would look like, and knew that the end result would not be to your liking.

 

[ortolan]

Originally Posted by Glen Plaid

Thanks to CharlestonBows, Sator and Nicola for your extremely helpful responses. Next time, I'll ask to try on a stock suit and to see and understand the particular modifications.

My situation with the current suit now seems clear. If it fits, then no harm no foul; I got a good suit for a good price. If it still doesn't fit, then I'll ask that the merchant either have the suit remade or refund my money (his choice).

I look forward to continuing to participate in this forum.


Great approach. A couple of examples:

I had a linen blend MTM jacket made which arrived with the sleeves too short. The store tailor tried to take the sleeves out through the cuff (they decided not to take it out through the armholes) but alas, there was a visible line in the sleeve under certain reflections of the light. A dark wool would not have shown any issue. I was sad since the MTM jacket really was exceptional otherwise. Nevertheless, the store agreed a line on the sleeve was unacceptable for MTM and generously reordered the jacket at their cost; I was happy with the second one. Granted, the jacket was a bit more expensive than your suit (over 3K) and I had already spent quite a bit at that merchant.

To a large degree bespoke is safer, as major issues are prevented by multiple fittings, and you can do fairly large changes at the first fitting. That doesn't mean that the result is always what you expect. For example, I didn't like the balance of a bespoke dark wool suit even after the so called 3rd and final fitting, it had a slight upward tilt. The tailor took apart the suit, redid the front to back balance (some of this was limited since the suit was already cut). I had two more fittings at no additional charge. The final result was excellent and I was quite pleased. It can be done.

The ultimate question is whether you insist on a quality product and whether the merchant is willing to do it. If you are an established patron of a merchant, they often will try a bit harder to make you happy.

Hope to hear a success story. Best wishes,

--ortolan

 

[HalfCanvas]

The salesperson sounds like either ill-informed or untrustworthy to me. HF's new Barrett model is an exceptional fit for a leaner, more muscular build. Methinks he steered you toward Coppley for profit reasons.