Looking for a D-pocket horse hide jacket!?

[Lorcan7]

Y2 do a dyed through horsehide D-pocket

https://standardandstrange.com/coll...yle-jacket-black-y2-02?variant=41983203836077

 

[canstyleace]

Yep FCL is this forum’s darling (over at FL it’s much more divisive) but I never thought that their patterns were any good. I once dared to mention in the leather jackets thread that I thought they did marketing really well (I’d dare say the aging in the jackets they use for their photos is not 100% natural) and that that was key to their success and I was eaten alive lol.

I only really like just 1 FC model, and it’s a design done by other brands as well I just think the fit on that one is better for my body type

Oddly enough, the jacket I’m currently struggling to purchase is from a FC spinoff brand I’ve never heard of, and could find zero feedback on, yet it’s the first japanese jacket I’ve seen that has a leather I haven’t seen other brands use, but sadly it varies soo much from jacket to jacket that I can’t buy it blindly with from japan, I need to see the jacket I’m buying first and approve it, only like 3 stores currently still have it and none is really helping me out via email inquiries asking for pics and measurements

Speaking of, is there still someone here that does personal shopping proxy services from japan?

 

[JibranK]

Which brand? Most of FC's spinoff brands have even worse patterns.

The FC jackets that are leather versions of fabric jackets tend to be fine. It's the ones that are actual leather jacket designs that are usually disasters.

See the lapels here for example:

Completely lifeless and when you compare to a modern Schott let alone a vintage model, it's a night and day difference in favor of the cheaper option. That shouldn't be the case for something billing itself as the premium alternative!

Let alone the gimmicks like pre-cutting off the belt and epaulettes so you can see the "tea core" emerge at the edges lol.

I think motorcycle jackets are kind of overdone in general now (FCL kind of made them a thing on SF) but they're the worst iteration.

 

[canstyleace]

Which brand? Most of FC's spinoff brands have even worse patterns.

The FC jackets that are leather versions of fabric jackets tend to be fine. It's the ones that are actual leather jacket designs that are usually disasters.

See the lapels here for example:
View attachment 2244761

Completely lifeless and when you compare to a modern Schott let alone a vintage model, it's a night and day difference in favor of the cheaper option. That shouldn't be the case for something billing itself as the premium alternative!

Let alone the gimmicks like pre-cutting off the belt and epaulettes so you can see the "tea core" emerge at the edges lol.

I think motorcycle jackets are kind of overdone in general now (FCL kind of made them a thing on SF) but they're the worst iteration.

I don’t like double riders or teacore tbh, the only FC motorcycle type jacket I like is the santa anita (currently sold out everywhere), it does have a quick fading thick HH but as far as I can tell it fades to a light grey not brown or teacore, but mainly I like it cuz it’s a tight fitting, V shaped halfbelt with a smallish collar and hand warmer pockets

I know theres tons of halfbelt options but I don’t like big pointy collars or overly decorated backs, and I kinda prefer how the darts and yoke combo looks vs a gusseted back or a completely clean back

So really my only other options for that would be a bodie which is currently not being made and it’d need a sz 34 which is extra hard to find pre-owned since there were fewer made than most other sizes, or hope that a 36 buena vista pops up in good condition

The FC spinoff is called naked sun and the jacket I like is a repro of an EWMIC barnstormer but made with a pretty thick and grainy buffalo hide

 

[JibranK]

Check out Johnson Leathers in San Francisco. They have incredible patterning (including custom patterns if necessary) and can make anything in any leather. They often have exclusive leathers made for them, like the custom Horween I got on my jacket.

They’ve done versions of the East West jackets so they might even have a pattern ready to go for you.

 

[JibranK]

They also make stunning half belts. I realize my links made it seem like I was only talking about the EW stuff.

 

[JChance]

Look for chrome-tanned leather if you don’t want teacore. Lost Worlds is the answer here

 

[JibranK]

Look for chrome-tanned leather if you don’t want teacore. Lost Worlds is the answer here

Chrome tanned can be "tea core" (I hate that term) and there's veg tanned leather that isn't.

But I agree, chrome tanned leathers are far better suited to garments than veg tan despite that becoming fetishized as part of raw denim culture.

 

[verver]

@JibranK : interested in seeing compare/contrast pics of what’s lifeless vs what’s not, lapels. And how you’d describe each
Also, recs for the OP w aero and lost worlds may not be what he’s looking for if it’s purely for “fashion” purposes

 

[MickeyPunch]

@JibranK : interested in seeing compare/contrast pics of what’s lifeless vs what’s not, lapels. And how you’d describe each
Also, recs for the OP w aero and lost worlds may not be what he’s looking for if it’s purely for “fashion” purposes

Hmm I doubt many fashion brands are doing horsehide D-pockets, those things together seem very repro oriented.

 

[JibranK]

@JibranK : interested in seeing compare/contrast pics of what’s lifeless vs what’s not, lapels. And how you’d describe each
Also, recs for the OP w aero and lost worlds may not be what he’s looking for if it’s purely for “fashion” purposes

The picture I posted of a workwear guy in FCL's Perfecto copy is a good example of lifeless collar and lapels. If you're into menswear it's actually not dissimilar to how cheap RTW suits/jackets have super flat lapels.

Hmm I doubt many fashion brands are doing horsehide D-pockets, those things together seem very repro oriented.

I've seen SLP do some quite ugly jackets vaguely inspired by 1950s motorcycle jackets.

Did see a quite beautiful Margiela that reproduces a Fidelity motorcycle jacket from the 1960s; they got every detail right, except they did the jacket in a luxurious calfskin rather than horse. It looked quite cool.

But yeah the only fashion brands you'll see doing horsehide D-pockets are the ones affiliated with the Japanese magazines; in the grand scheme of things they're quite small.

 

[MickeyPunch]

The picture I posted of a workwear guy in FCL's Perfecto copy is a good example of lifeless collar and lapels. If you're into menswear it's actually not dissimilar to how cheap RTW suits/jackets have super flat lapels.


I've seen SLP do some quite ugly jackets vaguely inspired by 1950s motorcycle jackets.

Did see a quite beautiful Margiela that reproduces a Fidelity motorcycle jacket from the 1960s; they got every detail right, except they did the jacket in a luxurious calfskin rather than horse. It looked quite cool.

But yeah the only fashion brands you'll see doing horsehide D-pockets are the ones affiliated with the Japanese magazines; in the grand scheme of things they're quite small.

I don’t think SLP/Celine etc would use horsehide though.

 

[JibranK]

I don’t think SLP/Celine etc would use horsehide though.

Indeed not; I'm just saying where/how they do intersect. (Badly, in the case of Hedi stuff.) Hilariously Hedi himself seems to prefer wearing the American originals over the slop jackets he pumps out for the global nouveau riche. I respect the hustle.