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Looking for a bolder, but classic suit

lemmywinks

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It's crazy I joined this forum in 2008 when I was 15 years old, always painting this picture in my head that one day where I'll be one of those men who wear suits every day, and that when I'm finally a man, I will be like those guys on the Classic Menswear forum who have Bespoke WW Chan suits taking WAWYT photos.
Turns out none of the career choices I made are careers where you get to wear a suit.

Have an opportunity to be a part of a once-in-a-lifetime event coming up where I get to wear whatever I want. I do want to get something made to fulfill the dream that a teenage me had - to get a bespoke suit.

I want something that's a bit on the eccentric side - I don't want a versatile suit, I want to wear a ******* cool bold suit, but at the same time something that is still representative of Classic Menswear values.

I have an idea in my head of what I'm thinking of, but I'm curious what you guys would get if you were in the same situation as me?

When I say 'bold' I'm thinking of details that you definitely wouldn't want if it was your only suit. Double-breasted jackets, peak lapels, details like that.
 

lemmywinks

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I was thinking along the lines of navy pinstripe but maybe it's not as bold as I thought.
 

philosophe

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If navy pinstripe is your idea of bold, go for it.

You might want to consider whether you want to go with bespoke, higher end MTM, or higher end off the rack. Time as well as money is a factor. Not to mention location. What are the major options within easy geographic reach?
 

BlueSteel

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I was thinking along the lines of navy pinstripe but maybe it's not as bold as I thought.
Navy pinstripe (or chalkstripe) suit - double-breasted with wide lapels makes a statement. That is my version of the suit you describe. Got Sartoria Manna in Napoli to make it for me bespoke from Fox Flannel. Wore it the other night to a wine dinner, and it got some flattering attention.
 

acconrad

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Tom Ford with peak lapels.
This was my first thought. Or Cifonelli. Basically you have classic materials (navy worsted) and a classic style (single breasted), but you play with bold elements, such as drape and lapel width. Houses like Tom Ford and Cifonelli are willing to do really large lapels and bold shapes (i.e., Tom Ford does really pointy, strong shoulders).
 

ZRH1

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What about a contrasting colour for the stripe, or a white chalkstripe on a dark background?
I would start with white stripes on navy. On a further note, my sartorial graveyard is full of "bold" suits, as with time I value boring and perfectly fitting over any "different" suit.
 

TheIronDandy

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When I hear "bold but classic suit" and "bespoke", I'm thinking Edward Sexton.

If I may be so bold, I would also caution against stripes: pin- and chalkstripes are heavily associated with business suits, and while a chalkstripe DB suit can be a statement, it can also look like you're cosplaying a senior investment banker.

Also, consider that suits today are quite rare. A standard navy suit will stand out - a suit with ONE unusual element (a bolder cut, or a unusual color or pattern) is well into eccentric territory. The most dramatic (but least glaring) thing to play with is probably the cut and silhouette: strong shoulders and wide lapels that both Sexton and Tom Ford does aren't as obvious as a bold fabric, but they will arguably do more to make you look good. If you want an extra element, consider an unusual material: a navy cashmere blend is different from navy worsted wool.

Obviously, if you're doing a once-in-a-life-time suit, it can be tempting to go all in. I don't think anyone would blame you. But you'll likely get a better, more enjoyable suit if you temper your ambitions and consider the wearability too.
 

Shirtmaven

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I own one of my fathers Smalto suits from the 1980s. Navy flannel with burgundy stripes. Because it is flannel the stripes are not overwhelming.
It is a double Brest 6 button 2 to button.
Side vents. Pleated pants. It had a self belt, but the moths destroyed it years ago
It is distinctive, yet elegant. Worn with a 1/16 repeat burgundy and white stripe white collars and cuffs. Solid burgundy grenadine tie
 

Concordia

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When going bespoke, you don't need to be as far out on the curve as Sexton or Morgan to get something uniquely gorgeous. Think first about the fabric. If weather permits, get something like a Lesser 13oz, which has a very assertive color palette and firm structure. That will be assertive without consigning itself to the dustbin of history. One of the more structured tailors will push it out very well, but even a softer DB from Anderson & Sheppard handle it, as Prince Charles and Lord Mountbatten have demonstrated.

Then, the pattern. Navy herringbone (or petrol blue pick & pick, if you can find just the right shade) will travel between a well-groomed office and the opera or wedding very nicely. And it's just elegant and unusual enough that you will be punching above your weight on those rare occasions.
 

NewDenimBootHead

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I occasionally need to wear suits for work, but it needs to be conservative and respectful of the occasion. So I am wearing navy, blue pin stripe, grey worsted wool, etc. If I had an opportunity to get a suit made for an occasion and I did not need to wear the uniform necessary for work, I have a good idea on what would make a bold statement.

There are others on this form that have great style, but here is my take:

I would opt for a double breasted suit would fit perfectly. The bold part? I would really focus on the fabric. A light or medium gray that had an iridescent sheen. The light gray would show off the tailoring and the fabric would be the star, especially in sunlight.
 

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