Longwings or Wingtips

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jmoody15, Nov 9, 2009.

  1. Cary Grant

    Cary Grant Senior member

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    Why the obsession over longwings on this forum? What do people have against wingtips?

    You're argument is false. Sure, there are people here who like longwings. That does not connote general hatred of wingtips, one of the standard shoe styles, however. A careful review of the WAYWN now and Shoe Porn threads will display many more wingtips.
     
  2. DrZRM

    DrZRM Senior member

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    ^ +1

    While there are many here who like longwings, I'd say the majority easily tends towards wingtips. You criticism of longwings as clunky is hardly a revelation. While I like both, I'd certainly chose longwings over wingtips if I could only have one. Fortunately, this is a decision one is rarely called upon to make.

    I have plenty of other shoes to wear if I want something sleek. Longwings represent classical Americana. Bring the chunk.
     
  3. Dburr

    Dburr Senior member

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    Not a reasonable question. It's like asking if I prefer a saddle or a plain toe blucher. Depends.
     
  4. thinman

    thinman Senior member

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    It seems that short wings are always oxford style and longwings are always derby style.

    In my experience, most short wings are oxford style, but not all. The Polo Darltons are short wing derbies. Mine are some of my favorite shoes, especially with jeans, cords, or moleskins. I'm looking for a pair of longwings, too.
     
  5. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If anything, I think longwing proponents, of which I am one, are often vocal specifically because of the widespread fondness here for sleek, modern shoes. There have been endless threads about G&G, EG's 888, C&J's 348, Vass U last, even Kiton's pointy toes and tacky patination ... The lowly longwing, in comparison, has only lately been getting some love.

    I like both sleek shoes and clunky shoes, depending. And it really is how you use them: A clunky chestnut longwing can look great paired with a slim, light gray wool trou. They can look old-fashioned, but they can look modern, too. Thom Brown and the Duckie Brown/Florsheim collab come to mind.
     
  6. Guero

    Guero Senior member

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    +1. As a proponent and wearer of the sleeker C&J 348 last and Vass U-last, and assorted imitations thereof, I am definitely not oriented towards the clunky longwing but would find the world a less interesting place without it. And to add one more tidbit to a post above, not all wings, low or long, are brogues, unless you include austerity brogues.
     
  7. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Wingtip derbies often look bad to me because the bottom edge of the brogued eyelet piece and the top edge of the wingtip imply intersecting, rather than parallel, lines. Longwing derbies don't have this problem: the bottom edge of the eyelet piece is always parallel to the the top edge of the longwing broguing.

    If I ever got non-longwing wingtips, I'd pick an oxford format. Even then I'd want the curved edges of the eyelet piece and wingtip to be harmonious.
     
  8. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Senior member

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    Longwings represent classical Americana. Bring the chunk.

    Yes!

    If anything, I think longwing proponents, of which I am one, are often vocal specifically because of the widespread fondness here for sleek, modern shoes. There have been endless threads about G&G, EG's 888, C&J's 348, Vass U last, even Kiton's pointy toes and tacky patination ... The lowly longwing, in comparison, has only lately been getting some love.

    I like both sleek shoes and clunky shoes, depending. And it really is how you use them: A clunky fiery chestnut longwing can look great paired with a slim, light gray wool trou. They can look old-fashioned, but they can look modern, too. Thom Brown and the Duckie Brown/Florsheim collab come to mind.


    Fixed, can't believe you forgot 'fiery'!

    Wingtip derbies often look bad to me because the bottom edge of the brogued eyelet piece and the top edge of the wingtip imply intersecting, rather than parallel, lines. Longwing derbies don't have this problem: the bottom edge of the eyelet piece is always parallel to the the top edge of the longwing broguing.

    If I ever got non-longwing wingtips, I'd pick an oxford format. Even then I'd want the curved edges of the eyelet piece and wingtip to be harmonious.


    Huh? I have a pair of Tricker's Tetbury in Espresso pebble grain on the way, similar to these: http://item.rakuten.co.jp/eton/1408136/
     
  9. kev777

    kev777 Senior member

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    Wingtip derbies often look bad to me because the bottom edge of the brogued eyelet piece and the top edge of the wingtip imply intersecting, rather than parallel, lines. Longwing derbies don't have this problem: the bottom edge of the eyelet piece is always parallel to the the top edge of the longwing broguing.

    If I ever got non-longwing wingtips, I'd pick an oxford format. Even then I'd want the curved edges of the eyelet piece and wingtip to be harmonious.


    Along with Wes i just thought "What????!!!" ............totally over my head that [​IMG]
     
  10. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Huh? I have a pair of Tricker's Tetbury in Espresso pebble grain on the way, similar to these: http://item.rakuten.co.jp/eton/1408136/

    Along with Wes i just thought "What????!!!" ............totally over my head that [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  11. kev777

    kev777 Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Ah now it all becomes clear !!
     
  12. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Senior member

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  13. jmoody15

    jmoody15 Senior member

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    The lowly longwing, in comparison, has only lately been getting some love.

    I guess that might explain it - I'm new around here

    I like both sleek shoes and clunky shoes, depending. And it really is how you use them: A clunky chestnut longwing can look great paired with a slim, light gray wool trou. They can look old-fashioned, but they can look modern, too. Thom Brown and the Duckie Brown/Florsheim collab come to mind.

    I guess that I'm with you - maybe "low wings" first, then longwings later for more casual use. But I'm not at that stage yet. About to buy a new pair, and wanted to see what the argument was for longwings. I'm looking for more of a dressy-casual type look in these shoes, so I'll stick with my original thought.

    You're argument is false. Sure, there are people here who like longwings. That does not connote general hatred of wingtips, one of the standard shoe styles, however. A careful review of the WAYWN now and Shoe Porn threads will display many more wingtips.

    Didn't mean to imply that I saw hatred for wingtips. Just saw a preference toward the longwings in the past month, and was curious. I guess it shows that I'm new, since I didn't think about the possibility of having both types of shoes. [​IMG]

    But I'll contend your assertion that my "argument" is false. It was a simple question, and I don't believe that a question can be false - only an answer. [​IMG]
     
  14. kev777

    kev777 Senior member

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    ^ Aaaaaaaaaaah, gotcha Foo! And I made a mistake, my Tetbury are derbies (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Trickers-Facto...8182001r32540), not oxfords/bals like the ones I had linked.

    I'm sorry Wes but those Trickers eyelet pieces aren't parallel nor harmonious [​IMG]
     
  15. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Senior member

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    I'm sorry Wes but those Trickers eyelet pieces aren't parallel nor harmonious [​IMG]

    Luckily, I'm not [​IMG]
     

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