Longwings in the UK or Italy

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by radicaldog, Nov 21, 2009.

  1. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    I hope this isn't SF groupthink, but I need a pair of heavy/bad weather shoes, and I'm warming to the thought of longwings, perhaps in a scotchgrain calf. 360 welt, double soles, storm welt. Yes, Alden. But I'm the UK, and (i) I like to try shoes on before buying them, and (ii) I've never seen them here. I've seen them in a shop in Italy (where I go fairly frequently), but they were 800 Euros or so (cordovan only), and I really don't think they're worth that much. So, what are the options? My ideal price range is in the middle of the 'proper shoes' market, i.e. Church's, C&J, and the like (£300-350 or so, but I wouldn't mind something cheaper if the quality is good). Church's F fitting is OK for me, but I'd prefer something a bit narrower, if possible. I wouldn't mind a dainite sole for this kind of shoe.

    On Pediwear I found models by Loake and Sargent (links below), and I've seen a Cheaney model in a local shop, but I don't think the quality of these shoes is very good, especially as regards the leather.
    http://www.pediwear.co.uk/loake/products/1057.php

    http://www.pediwear.co.uk/sargent/products/1574.php

    This is probably the best approximation I've found (the one I saw in the shop was regular calf with leather soles):

    http://www.herringshoes.co.uk/produc...electedFitID=0

    Any suggestions? (Thanks in advance!)
     
  2. NoVaguy

    NoVaguy Senior member

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    The Herring/Cheaney and Alfred Sargent look good, but I don't know how the leather quality will hold up.

    The Loakes looks like corrected-grain. I am not a fan of smooth corrected-grain burgundy shoes. If you're getting corrected grain, get something in a scotch or pebble grain. I think a smooth corrected grain shoe shows scuffs way too easily, and doesn't hold up well.

    Order of Preference for the shoes you've shown - Herring/Cheaney, then Alfred Sargent, and then the Loake.
     
  3. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    The Herring/Cheaney and Alfred Sargent look good, but I don't know how the leather quality will hold up.

    The Loakes looks like corrected-grain. I am not a fan of smooth corrected-grain burgundy shoes. If you're getting corrected grain, get something in a scotch or pebble grain. I think a smooth corrected grain shoe shows scuffs way too easily, and doesn't hold up well.

    Order of Preference for the shoes you've shown - Herring/Cheaney, then Alfred Sargent, and then the Loake.


    I agree with that order of preference. In fact the only ones I'm seriously considering are the Herring/Cheaneys. But does anyone know of other makers/models?
     
  4. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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  5. pabloj

    pabloj Senior member

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    Trickers, great quality, and great prices in their eBay shop
     
  6. carl_muffin

    carl_muffin Member

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    I personally am a great fan of AS shoes and would highly recommend the following

    http://www.alfredsargent.co.uk/image...ges/OAKLEY.jpg

    as opposed to the Baltimore as the leather is corrected and it probably wont hold up as much as the calf grain as on the calf grain on the Oakley
     
  7. ysc

    ysc Senior member

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    I recently got a pair of the scotchgrain country boots from Herring and have been pretty pleased with them so far, they also arrived the day after I ordered them, which kind of blew me away.
    I would recommend something like them over a pair of brogues, because if they are dealing with a lot of bad weather they will probably need cleaning/polishing fairly often and brogue work makes that a pain (imho).
     
  8. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    Thanks for the suggestions. So now it's between the Cheaney/Herring and the Alfred Sargent. Both have dainite soles, but the Sargent looks less rubbery -- probably it's just the picture, though. Opinions/experience on quality?

    I've also sent an email to Dinkelacker -- I'm tempted to do SF-style purchase in order to get a better shoe.
     
  9. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Senior member

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    Thanks for the suggestions. So now it's between the Cheaney/Herring and the Alfred Sargent. Both have dainite soles, but the Sargent looks less rubbery -- probably it's just the picture, though. Opinions/experience on quality?

    Tough chioce between the two. I prefer the color of the Cheaney's but the Sargents are also very nice. ...Toss a coin? best 2 out of 3?
     
  10. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    Trickers, great quality, and great prices in their eBay shop

    I've got a printed Trickers catalogue, but I don't see any longwings. Lots of heavy country brogues (wingtips), but no longwings.
     
  11. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    Tried the Cheaney on -- the supposedly medium fit is way too wide for me. Anyone know if Sargent fit differently?
     
  12. Closer

    Closer Senior member

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    Dont sneeze at Alfred Sargent. They make for Brooks Brothers. They recently shared factory space with Graziano and Girling. Alfed Sargent is about to launch a very high level line with channeled, fiddle backed soles.

    check out this thread on AAAC:
    http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/F...ad.php?t=94160

    I have the brooks brothers, pebble grain, wingtip, with Dainite soles, made by Alfred Sargent. They are very well made shoes, with very high quality linings. They are tough as nails too.

    To answer one of your questions, the Sargents will also fit wide. Alot of these "Country Shoes" are on wider lasts for thicker socks. I have to wear thick socks with mine.

    I almost flipped them because I cannot wear them with thin socks, but they are just too awesome so I have to keep them.
     
  13. Closer

    Closer Senior member

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    The Aldens you are considering and the Church's option would both have more normal (less wide) lasts.
     
  14. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    The Aldens you are considering and the Church's option would both have more normal (less wide) lasts.
    Interesting -- thanks. Church's F (medium) fits me OK, if a bit on the wide side. Is the Alden D fitting similar? And thanks for the info on Sargent. Why don't Church's, Trickers and C&J make longwings?!?
     
  15. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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