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Long Torso Short Stature

Redgreenbleu

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Oct 19, 2018
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I have a long torso and stand at 171cm or 5’7”ish. There is much advice on suit jacket length and I am thinking I generally look better in shorter jackets. However, shorter jackets lead to my butt only being mostly covered. If I get the longer jacket, I think it also looks good, but I think it makes me look shorter.

Is it more important for jacket to cover your rear or for the jacket length to bisect the body? I see the butt reference frequently but with different proportions maybe this rule is not always possible?
 

a1s2d3

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Jan 30, 2016
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For your proportions, what you need is a jacket with the length of the short jacket, but with the same button stance as the longer jacket, not the button stance of the short jacket. I think it is more important to bisect, when you are shorter or taller the rules of proportion don't always work the same as an average height person.
radcliffe.jpg

Notice the length is not hitting his thumb knuckle which is a standard way to measure proper length, yet it bisects him in half and looks correct although it is probably not covering his seat. I like the button stance to be at the crease where the arm bends as it is in the picture.
 

JohnPatShop

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Jul 28, 2017
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Button stance is nearly always too high in department store suits, but I suggest wearing suit pants with a higher rise at the waist.

If you're going the cheapie route, its possible to buy a regular length suit jacket and have it tailored short. The pockets will look all wrong, but it's an option. You can also get pants at a hem length that's a size too long for you and have it hemmed to your length. The waist rise will be a little high, and visually lengthen the legs. To a degree, you can afford to wear a high rise of you have a long torso. It's a lot of hoops to jump through, but it's one possibility.
 

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