Long collared shirts

[TupacShakur615]

I’m tall with a long neck.

I love OCBD shirts with really long points but also any shirt with long collars.

But I can’t find a great brand that makes them. Or frankly even what to search for.

The know the usual suspects. Jpress, BB, Mercer. But correct me if I’m wrong, they’re not exactly long.

Coincidentally I was looking through a book on George bush senior and him and Gerald ford had some pretty amazing collars. I believe both bush and ford shopped at jpress but the collars seem different now.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

 

[TupacShakur615]

Welp, I'm sorta answering my own question but it looks like Edward Saxton has a few: https://www.edwardsexton.co.uk/collections/shirts/products/sage-white-bengal-stripe-shirting

 

[breakaway01]

At this price point I’d recommend considering custom shirts. You’ll be able to specify this collar style, e.g.

Straight Point Collar - Proper Cloth

The Straight Point has the narrowest spread among any collars out there, and has been around as long as men have been wearing coats and ties—think pre-Ivy Style Ivy League.

propercloth.com

https://collaro.co/style-guide/shirt/collar/Classic
(You can specify longer lengths)

Or search for “point collar” for RTW options, such as

Long Point Collar

A long point collar is a distinguished element to any shirt, bringing a subtly nostalgic feel, and pairing perfectly with a neat tie knot. Handcrafted in our Somerset factory with a regular silhouette, floating interlinings, single-needle construction, and an elegant spread collar, it's a shirt...

us.drakes.com

 

[TupacShakur615]

I've never heard of collaro. Their stuff looks awesome, thank you.

 

[comrade]

Did you see this from Mercer?

 

[comrade]

Or this from O'Connells:


:

 

[TupacShakur615]

Did you see this from Mercer?


View attachment 2271593

While Mercer looks great and I’d love to try them, I’m for sure nervous as it’s seems a bit loose fitting.

I’m tall but muscular with a slim waist. I was nervous Mercer was too baggy (even though I like the classic fit). Even too baggy for classic. But I should run it.

 

[comrade]

While Mercer looks great and I’d love to try them, I’m for sure nervous as it’s seems a bit loose fitting.

I’m tall but muscular with a slim waist. I was nervous Mercer was too baggy (even though I like the classic fit). Even too baggy for classic. But I should run it.

Yes. They are baggy and I am not thin. I had discussions w/ them for MTM for
a shirt and my neck, shoulders, and chest meant that they would produce a 16.5/
34 with a 54 inch chest. My H &Ks have a 50 inch chest and fit not too full.

 

[TupacShakur615]

Yes. They are baggy and I am not thin. I had discussions w/ them for MTM for
a shirt and my neck, shoulders, and chest meant that they would produce a 16.5/
34 with a 54 inch chest. My H &Ks have a 50 inch chest and fit not too i

Any suggestions for the same or similar collar but different brand?

 

[comrade]

Try bespoke. Talk to Carl at CEGO. He seems very knowledgeable and regularly
post on SF. No idea of prices.

 

[notdos]

SuitSupply offers them under their Custom program on the website.

 

[TimothyF]

If you're price conscious, try the cheap MTM shirtmakers (who usually manufacture in Asia). I know Spier and Mackay can probably do it, as I have a Western shirt with long point collar (over 3")

 

[trusheerush]

I'm 6'4" with a long neck, wide face, and a penchant for large collars. I have explored many of the options posted in this thread. The key dimension for sizing a collar to a long neck is the band height; the point length should also be long but the band height is what really creates the proportionality. Collar band height is usually measured at the rear unless otherwise specified.

The minimum rear band height I would consider is 1.5 inch, but ideally even taller. My preference is for 1.875" rear band height and 1.375" front band height. The rear of the collar almost touches the hairline. The front of the collar sits at the forward tip of the adam's apple. Collaro allows this as their maximum collar band height. Luxire can also do this because they allow basically limitless collar customization. Spier and MacKay Large Italian Button Down and Yeossal Button Down top out at 1.625 rear band height; Proper Cloth's Large Roma Button Down has a 1.56" rear band height. I view any of these as acceptable but Collaro or Luxire would be my favorite. O'Connell's, Mercer, Kamakura, and Suitsupply custom are shorter than I prefer.

For collar point length, I think anywhere from 4" to 4.25" is ideal for a button down. Proper Cloth and Yeossal will do 4" points. Spier and MacKay does 4.125" points. Collaro will do 4 or 4.25 inch points, although I find 4.25" this borders on too long, as the "S" curve will start to get so wavy that it turns into a double S curve, so to speak. Luxire will do whatever you tell them. I prefer 4.125".

Collar spread is a bit esoteric as it applies to button downs because the collar point position is really defined by where the buttons are placed on the shirt, so the unbuttoned collar spread measurement affects the geometry of the collar roll. I think any unbuttoned spread measurement from 4.375" (Spier) to 6.5" (Collaro) is reasonable. I don't really know what the single ideal measurement is for this within this range. If you go with Luxire, you will need to specify this yourself.

Beyond these metrics, there is some difference in how these shirtmakers cut the collars. Spier and MacKay, for example, cuts kind of a curve into the edge of the collar so that it wraps around your shoulder at the sides, but this decreases the perceived collar height and I really don't like it.

For non-button down forward point collars, these are more formal and my view is that the points should tuck under your lapels. I need about 4.5" points and 5.5" spread to make that work with my preferred high collar band. As far as I know, nobody makes a tall, long non-button point collar along these lines. Luxire will do it if you ask them. Capirari (https://www.capirari.com/prodotto/bogart-02-spear-point-collar/) does it but they don't do MTM for the rest of the shirt.

Ideally, if money, time, and location are not an issue, you would go to a serious bespoke shirtmaker. but even among these, I'm not sure how many would have experience doing fully bespoke collars. Probably not your local neighborhood custom clothier. Otherwise, my MTM shirtmaker preference is Luxire > Collaro > Yeossal > Proper Cloth > Spier and MacKay > Ratio, Suitsupply, Kamakura, etc.