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logsdail or raphael?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by AvariceBespoke, Jan 10, 2007.

  1. zalb916

    zalb916 Senior member

    Messages:
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    Dec 26, 2006
    I'm being serious. I don't think you should try bespoke because, frankly, you're just going to annoy the tailor. I'm not saying this to be mean, but because you have high, yet vague, expectations; both of you are likely to get frustrated. Either he'll wind up wasting his time, or you'll wind up with a suit you're not happy with.

    I ask about Brioni RTW because the quality is at least as good as Tom Ford/Zegna and the shoulders are straight and not soft.


    I agree with this. The Brioni look seems the most similar to the look he desires, and I don't think bespoke is the way to go at this point.
     
  2. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Senior member

    Messages:
    1,069
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2007
    I'm being serious. I don't think you should try bespoke because, frankly, you're just going to annoy the tailor. I'm not saying this to be mean, but because you have high, yet vague, expectations; both of you are likely to get frustrated. Either he'll wind up wasting his time, or you'll wind up with a suit you're not happy with.

    I ask about Brioni RTW because the quality is at least as good as Tom Ford/Zegna and the shoulders are straight and not soft.


    I won't annoy the tailor. Trust me I'm not as annoying in person as you percieve me to be based on reading my posts.

    My expectations are not vague - they are general. For example,

    I will say I would like the following:
    1) Structured shoulder
    2) Supressed waist as much as possible but only if it is flattering (lean overall suit)
    3) double vent
    4) very clean overall suit
    5) slightly wider than normal, notched lapels
    6) high armholes
    7) flat front slim trouers with side-tabs
    8) a nice year-round wool that is soft/luxurious but not overly fragile

    This is pretty specific yet can serve as a guideline. I would like to goto a talented tailor and say - OK this is the 8 things I'm looking for, use this as a framework. Then he can construct the suit within these guidelines and fit properly to my body and perhaps make some suggestions based on his experience fitting/ etc.

    What more do I need to "know" before going to a bespoke tailor? I think its pretty ridiculous to say I need to be a crazy expert like Michael Anton to buy a bespoke suit.
     
  3. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

    Messages:
    4,553
    Joined:
    May 11, 2006
    I'm being serious. I don't think you should try bespoke because, frankly, you're just going to annoy the tailor. I'm not saying this to be mean, but because you have high, yet vague, expectations; both of you are likely to get frustrated. Either he'll wind up wasting his time, or you'll wind up with a suit you're not happy with.

    I ask about Brioni RTW because the quality is at least as good as Tom Ford/Zegna and the shoulders are straight and not soft.



    If you do decide to ignore the above, you'd probably have the best luck with Logsdale ( straight shoulders, roped sleeves etc.
     
  4. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,384
    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2006
    Location:
    The wild and the pure.
    I won't annoy the tailor. Trust me I'm not as annoying in person as you percieve me to be based on reading my posts.

    My expectations are not vague - they are general. For example,

    I will say I would like the following:
    1) Structured shoulder
    2) Supressed waist as much as possible but only if it is flattering (lean overall suit)
    3) double vent
    4) very clean overall suit
    5) slightly wider than normal, notched lapels
    6) high armholes
    7) flat front slim trouers with side-tabs
    8) a nice year-round wool that is soft/luxurious but not overly fragile

    This is pretty specific yet can serve as a guideline. I would like to goto a talented tailor and say - OK this is the 8 things I'm looking for, use this as a framework. Then he can construct the suit within these guidelines and fit properly to my body and perhaps make some suggestions based on his experience fitting/ etc.

    What more do I need to "know" before going to a bespoke tailor? I think its pretty ridiculous to say I need to be a crazy expert like Michael Anton to buy a bespoke suit.

    From what I have heard, Tom Ford makes a suit just like that. You may want to give him a ring.
     
  5. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Senior member

    Messages:
    1,069
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2007
    If you do decide to ignore the above, you'd probably have the best luck with Logsdale ( straight shoulders, roped sleeves etc.

    Based on my current information set that I am working with - I agree
     
  6. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

    Messages:
    25,756
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2007
    Trust me I'm not as annoying in person as you percieve me to be based on reading my posts.


    Ditto.


    - B
     
  7. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Senior member

    Messages:
    1,069
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2007
    From what I have heard, Tom Ford makes a suit just like that. You may want to give him a ring.

    [​IMG]

    It gets old.
     
  8. adambparker

    adambparker Senior member

    Messages:
    1,147
    Joined:
    May 16, 2008
    [​IMG] It gets old.
    False. It is tremendously fun and entertaining. How do you think the other thread got to 600+ posts?
     
  9. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

    Messages:
    4,553
    Joined:
    May 11, 2006
    I won't annoy the tailor. Trust me I'm not as annoying in person as you percieve me to be based on reading my posts.

    My expectations are not vague - they are general. For example,

    I will say I would like the following:
    1) Structured shoulder
    2) Supressed waist as much as possible but only if it is flattering (lean overall suit)
    3) double vent
    4) very clean overall suit
    5) slightly wider than normal, notched lapels
    6) high armholes
    7) flat front slim trouers with side-tabs
    8) a nice year-round wool that is soft/luxurious but not overly fragile

    This is pretty specific yet can serve as a guideline. I would like to goto a talented tailor and say - OK this is the 8 things I'm looking for, use this as a framework. Then he can construct the suit within these guidelines and fit properly to my body and perhaps make some suggestions based on his experience fitting/ etc.

    What more do I need to "know" before going to a bespoke tailor? I think its pretty ridiculous to say I need to be a crazy expert like Michael Anton to buy a bespoke suit.


    That's pretty much what Chris makes for me. ( I don't get notches tho.) Clean chest, slight waist supression, flared skirt.
     
  10. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Senior member

    Messages:
    1,069
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2007
    That's pretty much what Chris makes for me. ( I don't get notches tho.) Clean chest, slight waist supression, flared skirt.

    Chris is in the Chicago area though, right?
     
  11. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Senior member

    Messages:
    1,069
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2007
    False. It is tremendously fun and entertaining.

    How do you think the other thread got to 600+ posts?


    OK so keep it to the other thread.
     
  12. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

    Messages:
    4,553
    Joined:
    May 11, 2006
    Chris is in the Chicago area though, right?

    yes. but he does go to NYC.
     
  13. adambparker

    adambparker Senior member

    Messages:
    1,147
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    May 16, 2008
    OK so keep it to the other thread.
    Come on now. You expect to resurrect a year-old thread that was absurd in the first place after the monstrosities you've created these last couple weeks and get serious answers? No, this is much more fun. EDIT: Yachtie, you are a kind and generous soul.
     
  14. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Senior member

    Messages:
    1,069
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    Jan 7, 2007
    yes. but he does go to NYC.

    would you be willing to PM any photos?
     
  15. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,795
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    My expectations are not vague - they are general. For example,

    I will say I would like the following:
    1) Structured shoulder
    2) Supressed waist as much as possible but only if it is flattering (lean overall suit)
    3) double vent
    4) very clean overall suit
    5) slightly wider than normal, notched lapels
    6) high armholes
    7) flat front slim trouers with side-tabs
    8) a nice year-round wool that is soft/luxurious but not overly fragile

    This is pretty specific yet can serve as a guideline. I would like to goto a talented tailor and say - OK this is the 8 things I'm looking for, use this as a framework. Then he can construct the suit within these guidelines and fit properly to my body and perhaps make some suggestions based on his experience fitting/ etc.


    Believe it or not, this list is not really that specific. Other than your preference for structured shoulders and a 'clean' suit (I assume you mean no drape), nothing points in the direction of one tailor over another. With regard to waist supression, there will be a point at which your tailor will tell you it is simply incorrect to supress more; the same goes for the height of your armholes. If he's a good tailor, no matter his method or style, he will give you as much shape as possible.

    Double vents, flat front pants, 'year-round' fabric--none are distinctive requests.
     
  16. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Senior member

    Messages:
    1,069
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2007
    Come on now. You expect to resurrect a year-old thread that was absurd in the first place after the monstrosities you've created these last couple weeks and get serious answers?

    No, this is much more fun.

    EDIT: Yachtie, you are a kind and generous soul.


    OK, whatever. Have your fun.
     
  17. rnoldh

    rnoldh Senior member

    Messages:
    13,560
    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2006
    What more do I need to "know" before going to a bespoke tailor? I think its pretty ridiculous to say I need to be a crazy expert like Michael Anton to buy a bespoke suit.

    You've nailed it.

    I too thought Manton is an expert at many things.

    But I hadn't realized that he's crazy.

    As for a bespoke tailor, look up Darren Beamann with the search function.

    Were you to commission a bespoke suit with Beamann, the thread possibilities would be endless.
     
  18. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

    Messages:
    4,553
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    May 11, 2006
    No need to PM, I'm not ashamed:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    No drape, no problems.
     
  19. RJmanbearpig

    RJmanbearpig Senior member

    Messages:
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    Oct 19, 2008
    Location:
    Hibernation
    You've nailed it.

    I too thought Manton is an expert at many things.

    But I hadn't realized that he's crazy.

    As for a bespoke tailor, look up Darren Beamann with the search function.

    Were you to commission a bespoke suit with Beamann, the thread possibilities would be endless.


    Manton is batsh!t insane. I confirm it.

    AtrociousOfftherack should go to Darren Beaman.
     
  20. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Senior member

    Messages:
    1,069
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2007
    Believe it or not, this list is not really that specific. Other than your preference for structured shoulders and a 'clean' (I assume you mean no drape), nothing points in the direction of one tailor over another. With regard to waist supression, there will be a point at which your tailor will tell you it is simply incorrect to supress more; the same goes for the height of your armholes. If he's a good tailor, no matter his method or style, he will give you as much shape as possible.

    Double vents, flat front pants, 'year-round' fabric--none are distinctive requests.


    What more of a direction do I need to provide? Can you be specific on what you have told your tailors you would like?

    I agree about there being a limit to waist supression & high armholes - I will rely on a good tailor knowing the limits to both of those.

    Obviously, "year-round" fabric is not distinctive but what am I to say now w/o looking at cloth? I will obviously need to look at selection.
     

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