KiwiFeet
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- Jun 25, 2014
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Righto boys, check my collection out.
I'm a New Zealander living in Melbourne (Australia) presently and only 12 months ago discovered this thing we call English goodyear welted shoes. Now I'm hooked. But as I say to my fiancee, better than collecting guns or cars.
As below:
Loake Gladstone - Black Calf
When I first tried these on fresh out of the Herring box I was immensely frustrated - how could size 11 F fitting shoes feel like such bellowing clown shoes on a man who usually takes a UK size 12? It was no surprise when I read on the Pediware website last month that Loake has subsequently reclassified its Swing last to a G fitting, and recommends buyers to take another half a size down from what they'd usual take in the Loake Capital last. The Swing last needs extra width and length to enable it to do just that we are told - swing.
Anyway, I'm pleased to say that all of my concern permanently disappeared after inserting a thick pair or Waproo orthotics. My Gladstones are the staple of my corporate rotation and I have grown very fond of them. After 12 months of wear (about 1-2 days a week), the leather sole finally gave way last month and wore right through to the cork. I'd resisted adding a rubber topy to keep the light spring in the step, and safe in the knowledge that for AUD$110 (£60) my Loake outlet here in Melbourne does a half leather resole and rubber heel. I've been very happy with this local repair even though it probably waives my eligibility to ever have a Loake factory refurbishment. Living this far away, sending back to a UK factory is uneconomical and difficult in any case.
Loake Hyde - Black Calf
With rain and winter upon my southern latitude, I needed my second black pair for work to be waterproof. I'd taken two leather soled pairs to a conference in Sydney recently during a weekend of perpetual rain, and had come back with all shoes thoroughly sodden, and looking most unhealthy. The Hydes have been brilliant on this score with their 'Dainite' rubber sole, even if as a consequence they feel a little less flexible, a bit heavier and slightly "clompy". The welt ledge is wider too, but I'm not complaining as this boot probably has its primary demand in brown for outdoor weekend wear. I'm just glad they also look so good with the suit trouser and with jeans.
I should add that even the Capital last in Loake is noticeably bigger compared to the same size in Church's and Cheaney. I'm very sure I could get away with a 10.5F in these boots, even though they are shorter and less bulbous than their plus size Gladstone cousin. Whereas my 11F Cheaney brogues (down the post below) hug my feet to the millimetre (like made-to-measure leather socks). Overall though, very happy. And Chris from Herring agreed to throw in free pair of cedar shoe trees given that they charge £20 delivery to Australia where Pediware and Robinsons do not.
Church's Cityline, "Hong Kong" - Ebony Capital
I bought these shoes by mistake. I was sure they were black in the photos, and the colour description of "ebony" corroborated my assumption as well. When I read the word Ebony, all I can think about is shiny black and white piano keys, being played and sung about by Paul McCartney. So when I opened the box to find a pair of dark brown Oxfords the frustration kicked in. Especially knowing that at the bargain sale price of £145, and living at the arse end of the world, that getting a return or refund actioned easily would be most difficult.
However, the colour very quickly grew on me. These Church's are so tight and glossy and crisp that it felt like I was wearing two shiny chocolate blocks on each foot. The leather is no supple calfskin I should add - Church's emphasise the perma-shine nature of it, when really it could be equally described as corrected hard leather from a very old cow. But after only three weeks of blistering sharp pain on the toes (as the vamp found its creases) this pair has become a delight to wear, and especially, to polish. They go so well with Navy too. A little detail not always obvious in the product description for this range is that they are not fully leather lined - instead, the arelined with a cream canvas material. I've never noticed any real difference.
Church's Cityline "Paris" - Brown Suede
Following on from the success of the Hong Kong, I jumped at the chance to get a second pair of Church's Citylines when Herring announced that the suede line would be run off indefinitely, with £100 discount thrown in for good measure. One thing about this last that I should add is its peculiar sizing. I am a very firm "F" fitting (or even a generous "E" if the wind is blowing in the right direction) but the 11G in this range is as narrow (or narrower) than all of my Loake and Cheaney 11Fs. And long too. As long as my oversized Gladstones. I was intrigued when I saw they also came in an "F" and wondered which lean-footed fellows would possibly be able to form a market for that fitting.
I've never had good suede shoes before and I was initially terrified to see them so easily stained and marked. But after adding a rubber and brass bristled suede brush to my shoe care kit, and emptying the best part of a can of Kiwi suede waterproofing spray not to them (to the annoyance of my coughing and spluttering fiancee), I've really enjoyed the process of keeping them clean. They get many a comment. I've not yet had the courage to wear them with a suit in a corporate environment yet, but my Dad (a dapper retired man of insurance) assures me that the look is most acceptable, and has been precedented by a number of English gents before me. RIP Church Cityline suedes - I'm glad I managed to snatch a momento before you went.
Cheaney Arthur III - Dark Leaf
Now we hit my favourite - my Cheaney brogues. My favourite shoes of them all. Sure, part of the appeal is the ornate detail of the brogueing. And the rich and atypical "dark leaf" burnished colouring. But it is also the way they feel. My Cheaneys feel far more imperfect and 'original' than any of my other shoes. You can see in the photo below how the height of the heels are actually quite different. At first I was aghast, but then quickly realised that handmade means human imperfection which I have come to appreciate.
There is something a little fragile about this pair. The leather heel just a tad more susceptible to pockmarking. The leather sole just a little more vulnerable to the swelling effects of moisture. The upper leather just that much more indefensible to permanent creasing and marking. I nurse this pair like you would a vulnerable puppy, and keep the day-to-day hammering to the Loakes, which I'd be less upset to take to an early grave. And these Cheaneys reward me with such comfort. Soft but firm, snug and immaculately fitting old friends.
RM Williams Craftsman - Brown Kangaroo
Whilst this thread is English-made in its focus, I had to add my RM Williams Craftsman boots to the post as they deserve equivalent kudos. Goodyear welted leather soles as well, on a very English Chelsea boot platform. But in detail they are firmly Australian. To me, this is because of the slightly squared chisel toe that almost nods to the American cowboy boot, and the sharper slanted elastic sides. These boots are as much at home poking out the bottom of a pair of moleskins on an Outback safari as with jeans in an inner-Melbourne pub. And many Australian blokes wear these under a suit as well to let you know there's a bit of humour and recreation to them outside the boardroom.
One thing special about RM Williams boots is that they are made from only one piece of leather, much like the whole cut series just released in the Cheaney range. As such, you'll never see that little straight seam that appears beneath the elastic sides of all English-made Chelsea boots. I've put rubber topys on the bottom of mine because I thrash them outdoors so much. In fact just last week I was walking dirt tracks up in Kakadu National Park - but upon my return they've shined back up perfectly as below. Mine are made of Kangaroo leather - so much finer that traditional calf leather giving them a lighter, shinier and more sumptuous feel, even if more fragile. RM's rival any British Chelsea boots boys. I recommend the investment.
I hoped you enjoyed the run-down. Adieu.
I'm a New Zealander living in Melbourne (Australia) presently and only 12 months ago discovered this thing we call English goodyear welted shoes. Now I'm hooked. But as I say to my fiancee, better than collecting guns or cars.
As below:
Loake Gladstone - Black Calf
When I first tried these on fresh out of the Herring box I was immensely frustrated - how could size 11 F fitting shoes feel like such bellowing clown shoes on a man who usually takes a UK size 12? It was no surprise when I read on the Pediware website last month that Loake has subsequently reclassified its Swing last to a G fitting, and recommends buyers to take another half a size down from what they'd usual take in the Loake Capital last. The Swing last needs extra width and length to enable it to do just that we are told - swing.
Anyway, I'm pleased to say that all of my concern permanently disappeared after inserting a thick pair or Waproo orthotics. My Gladstones are the staple of my corporate rotation and I have grown very fond of them. After 12 months of wear (about 1-2 days a week), the leather sole finally gave way last month and wore right through to the cork. I'd resisted adding a rubber topy to keep the light spring in the step, and safe in the knowledge that for AUD$110 (£60) my Loake outlet here in Melbourne does a half leather resole and rubber heel. I've been very happy with this local repair even though it probably waives my eligibility to ever have a Loake factory refurbishment. Living this far away, sending back to a UK factory is uneconomical and difficult in any case.
Loake Hyde - Black Calf
With rain and winter upon my southern latitude, I needed my second black pair for work to be waterproof. I'd taken two leather soled pairs to a conference in Sydney recently during a weekend of perpetual rain, and had come back with all shoes thoroughly sodden, and looking most unhealthy. The Hydes have been brilliant on this score with their 'Dainite' rubber sole, even if as a consequence they feel a little less flexible, a bit heavier and slightly "clompy". The welt ledge is wider too, but I'm not complaining as this boot probably has its primary demand in brown for outdoor weekend wear. I'm just glad they also look so good with the suit trouser and with jeans.
I should add that even the Capital last in Loake is noticeably bigger compared to the same size in Church's and Cheaney. I'm very sure I could get away with a 10.5F in these boots, even though they are shorter and less bulbous than their plus size Gladstone cousin. Whereas my 11F Cheaney brogues (down the post below) hug my feet to the millimetre (like made-to-measure leather socks). Overall though, very happy. And Chris from Herring agreed to throw in free pair of cedar shoe trees given that they charge £20 delivery to Australia where Pediware and Robinsons do not.
Church's Cityline, "Hong Kong" - Ebony Capital
I bought these shoes by mistake. I was sure they were black in the photos, and the colour description of "ebony" corroborated my assumption as well. When I read the word Ebony, all I can think about is shiny black and white piano keys, being played and sung about by Paul McCartney. So when I opened the box to find a pair of dark brown Oxfords the frustration kicked in. Especially knowing that at the bargain sale price of £145, and living at the arse end of the world, that getting a return or refund actioned easily would be most difficult.
However, the colour very quickly grew on me. These Church's are so tight and glossy and crisp that it felt like I was wearing two shiny chocolate blocks on each foot. The leather is no supple calfskin I should add - Church's emphasise the perma-shine nature of it, when really it could be equally described as corrected hard leather from a very old cow. But after only three weeks of blistering sharp pain on the toes (as the vamp found its creases) this pair has become a delight to wear, and especially, to polish. They go so well with Navy too. A little detail not always obvious in the product description for this range is that they are not fully leather lined - instead, the arelined with a cream canvas material. I've never noticed any real difference.
Church's Cityline "Paris" - Brown Suede
Following on from the success of the Hong Kong, I jumped at the chance to get a second pair of Church's Citylines when Herring announced that the suede line would be run off indefinitely, with £100 discount thrown in for good measure. One thing about this last that I should add is its peculiar sizing. I am a very firm "F" fitting (or even a generous "E" if the wind is blowing in the right direction) but the 11G in this range is as narrow (or narrower) than all of my Loake and Cheaney 11Fs. And long too. As long as my oversized Gladstones. I was intrigued when I saw they also came in an "F" and wondered which lean-footed fellows would possibly be able to form a market for that fitting.
I've never had good suede shoes before and I was initially terrified to see them so easily stained and marked. But after adding a rubber and brass bristled suede brush to my shoe care kit, and emptying the best part of a can of Kiwi suede waterproofing spray not to them (to the annoyance of my coughing and spluttering fiancee), I've really enjoyed the process of keeping them clean. They get many a comment. I've not yet had the courage to wear them with a suit in a corporate environment yet, but my Dad (a dapper retired man of insurance) assures me that the look is most acceptable, and has been precedented by a number of English gents before me. RIP Church Cityline suedes - I'm glad I managed to snatch a momento before you went.
Cheaney Arthur III - Dark Leaf
Now we hit my favourite - my Cheaney brogues. My favourite shoes of them all. Sure, part of the appeal is the ornate detail of the brogueing. And the rich and atypical "dark leaf" burnished colouring. But it is also the way they feel. My Cheaneys feel far more imperfect and 'original' than any of my other shoes. You can see in the photo below how the height of the heels are actually quite different. At first I was aghast, but then quickly realised that handmade means human imperfection which I have come to appreciate.
There is something a little fragile about this pair. The leather heel just a tad more susceptible to pockmarking. The leather sole just a little more vulnerable to the swelling effects of moisture. The upper leather just that much more indefensible to permanent creasing and marking. I nurse this pair like you would a vulnerable puppy, and keep the day-to-day hammering to the Loakes, which I'd be less upset to take to an early grave. And these Cheaneys reward me with such comfort. Soft but firm, snug and immaculately fitting old friends.
RM Williams Craftsman - Brown Kangaroo
Whilst this thread is English-made in its focus, I had to add my RM Williams Craftsman boots to the post as they deserve equivalent kudos. Goodyear welted leather soles as well, on a very English Chelsea boot platform. But in detail they are firmly Australian. To me, this is because of the slightly squared chisel toe that almost nods to the American cowboy boot, and the sharper slanted elastic sides. These boots are as much at home poking out the bottom of a pair of moleskins on an Outback safari as with jeans in an inner-Melbourne pub. And many Australian blokes wear these under a suit as well to let you know there's a bit of humour and recreation to them outside the boardroom.
One thing special about RM Williams boots is that they are made from only one piece of leather, much like the whole cut series just released in the Cheaney range. As such, you'll never see that little straight seam that appears beneath the elastic sides of all English-made Chelsea boots. I've put rubber topys on the bottom of mine because I thrash them outdoors so much. In fact just last week I was walking dirt tracks up in Kakadu National Park - but upon my return they've shined back up perfectly as below. Mine are made of Kangaroo leather - so much finer that traditional calf leather giving them a lighter, shinier and more sumptuous feel, even if more fragile. RM's rival any British Chelsea boots boys. I recommend the investment.
I hoped you enjoyed the run-down. Adieu.
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