1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

LOAKE APPRECIATION & SHOE P0RN THREAD

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by wurger, Jul 8, 2013.

  1. Yowzer

    Yowzer Senior member

    Messages:
    271
    Joined:
    May 16, 2013
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Does anyone have the Loake black/dark brown calf Cannon in action? Thanks...
     
  2. wurger

    wurger Senior member

    Messages:
    2,887
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Location:
    Sydney
    Here is a comparison review between Loake 1880 Strand and Alfred Sargent Exclusive Moore, priced at £198.95 and £395 respectively. I used the same format as Gentlemansgazette's shoe reviews.

    STYLE

    Both are Adelaide semi brogues, whereas the Loake Strand has medallion toe caps.

    Adelaide brogues are a variant of oxfords with broguing in a "U" shape around the laces and it does not intersect any other seams on the vamp, also called an "U Throat" oxford.

    Normally, an oxford shoe has two separate pieces of leather for the vamp and the quarter that are sewed together. An Adelaide brogue has just one piece of leather for the vamp with no quarters, like a whole cut but with a separate piece for the facing.

    THE LAST & FIT

    Both are F width, very true to size. The AS 724 has a slightly more square chisel toe and a much narrower waist and heel, but never feels tight when wearing them. The Loake Capital last has about the same room at the ball of the foot as the AS, so the 2 lasts are very similar in fit and feel. I am normally a US E fitting in AE sizing.

    The heel of the Loakes are lower than ASs.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    WORKMANSHIP

    I am happy with the overall finish on both pairs, but there are areas where you can tell that AS Exclusive Line makes one of the top quality RTW shoes in the market.

    AS goodyear welt is channeled, compared to Loake's stitched aloft, a finer touch but not necessary more durable. Both have nice and neat brogueing, seams are stitched up nicely and so are the inside lining.

    The finishing on the ends of the leather welt on the AS is much more neater and flush compare to the Loake. The burnishing of the Loake is inferior to the other AS burnished shoes, mainly in there are some very dark burnished patches where the leathers overlap, and where there is an uneven surface/indent on the leather upper, there is a lighter stripe not burnished.

    The balance between the heel and last is better with AS, meaning that the sole will touch the floor in the area of the front arch when the heel stands flat on the ground, this means a more comfortable walk. The Loake does not have this balance, the sole is in the air when the heel is flat.

    AS has a fiddle back waist compare to the straight waist of the Loake, it gives a more elegant touch, and looks better from all angles.

    There are no odd loose ends and finishes in the full leather interior lining for both pairs, which can lead to a very uncomfortable break in period for some lower end shoes.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    LEATHER

    Both leather uppers and interiors are rather supple, no excess creasing from wearing and very comfortable from the first wearing. The Loake Strand has suede inside heel counter to prevent heel slippage, which is a nice touch while the Alfred Sargent Moore uses calf leather for inside heel counter.

    However, one can tell the difference in leather by touch and feel.

    The Loake 1880 line does have full grain leather uppers, however, when comparing to AS Exclusive line's full grain leather, here are the differences:

    - Leather is very smooth and a lot less porous, feels like a heavy coating on the top, makes polishing very easy. This in a way confirms what some SF member's comment about lower end brand's full grain is somewhere between true full grain and corrected grain, perfectly acceptable at this price point.
    - Leather is not as taut and thick as AS leather

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    CONCLUSION

    While one can clearly see that AS Exclusive line is better than Loake 1880s, one must keep in mind there is a doubling of price. Both shoes fit me very well, so my feet can't feel the difference of the two yet, this may change if the Loake wears down quicker due to a lower grade leather, but I don't think it will since I only wear each pair once a fortnight as a part of my shoe rotation. From a practicality standpoint, better burnishing and detailing doesn't make the shoe last longer, nor can anyone tell the difference when they standing 1 m away. But since we are on the SF, detailing are looks are generally more important in the mind of the shoe owner and this is why we pay double or more for a pair of higher grade shoes.

    The Loake 1880s, from my experience, are one of the best goodyear welt shoes in terms of fit, style, leather and workmanship in the sub 200 pound price point.
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2013
    3 people like this.
  3. Xandion

    Xandion Member

    Messages:
    20
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2009
    Anyone have personal experience with both the capital and the 024 last? Did you end up sizing down half a size from the capital last to the 024 last? The pediwear description is kind of a non answer since it says narrow feet should size down but average may want to as well. Id say my 8F buckinghams are about perfect, maybe a tad long, but width is great. Any assistance is greatly appreciated!
     
  4. wurger

    wurger Senior member

    Messages:
    2,887
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Location:
    Sydney
    

    for your Buckinghams, is the width just right, as in can't get any narrower? then you should stay the same size. If the shoes are slightly big, an insole can easily solve the problem.
     
  5. Odradek

    Odradek Senior member

    Messages:
    631
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2011
    Location:
    Currently rural England
    

    I was in the Loake shop, off Jermyn Street, last week, and the Beaufort is being discontinued and was on sale at £135, which is a pretty good reduction.
    The blue suede Roux is also being discontinued and they had them selling for £99.
    Note that these prices are just in that shop, and the shoes are still full price on the Loake website.
     
  6. Yowzer

    Yowzer Senior member

    Messages:
    271
    Joined:
    May 16, 2013
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Must be fun to be in London during the summer sales. It sure seems like the Swing last is getting out of favour... A pair of blue suede shoes would be a nice casual addition too. Did you get any good deals?
     
  7. Yowzer

    Yowzer Senior member

    Messages:
    271
    Joined:
    May 16, 2013
    Location:
    Brisbane

    Good effort in writing the review wurger. How do you find the Capitals? I think they work very well for people with wide feet.
     
  8. wurger

    wurger Senior member

    Messages:
    2,887
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Location:
    Sydney
    They do fit my feet very well, but my feet ain't that wide either, the capital last is designed for the most common foot. Loake G fitting would be more suitable for wide feet.
     
  9. Mr Knightley

    Mr Knightley Senior member

    Messages:
    1,745
    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2013
    Location:
    England
    Very interesting indeed.

    What is an Adelaide Brogue? I've not heard that term before.
     
  10. Mr Knightley

    Mr Knightley Senior member

    Messages:
    1,745
    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2013
    Location:
    England
    I have a highish instep rather than a wide foot as such and do find the Loake G fitting very well-suited to my shape of foot. As a result Loakes tend to feel better after a day in the office than any of my G fitting Church's Oxfords.
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2013
  11. wurger

    wurger Senior member

    Messages:
    2,887
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Location:
    Sydney
    Adelaide brogues are a variant of oxfords with broguing in a "U" shape around the laces and it does not intersect any other seams on the vamp, also called an "u -throat" oxford.

    Normally, an oxford shoe has two separate pieces of leather for the vamp and the quarter that are sewed together. An Adelaide brogue has just one piece of leather for the vamp with no quarters, like a whole cut but with a separate piece for the facing.

    Loake Tweed is a standard semi-brogue, and Loake Strand is an Adelaide semi-brogue.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. wurger

    wurger Senior member

    Messages:
    2,887
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Location:
    Sydney

    And most of Loake's G fitting dress shoes are from their comfort line, that helps too.
     
  13. Mr Knightley

    Mr Knightley Senior member

    Messages:
    1,745
    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2013
    Location:
    England
    Ah, I see. Thank you.
     
  14. wurger

    wurger Senior member

    Messages:
    2,887
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Location:
    Sydney
    My brown shoe collection, comparison of Loake 026G and Capital F last, compare to other F lasts, and different shades of brown!

    Loake Tweed, Loake Strand, Alfred Sargent Ramsey, Herring Drake, and Alfred Sargent Hunt.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. Yowzer

    Yowzer Senior member

    Messages:
    271
    Joined:
    May 16, 2013
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Is that the drake on the 1966 last? How does it compare to the Capital?
     
  16. wurger

    wurger Senior member

    Messages:
    2,887
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Location:
    Sydney
    

    Yes, the 1966 last, it's very similar in fit to Capital. The 1966 has a chisel toe, while the Capital has a more round toe.
     
  17. kashmir

    kashmir Senior member

    Messages:
    711
    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2010
    026 G so chubby but I like

    much better than them American fatlasts, I don't know why... something about AE & Alden just looks off to me. I think it's the vamp.
     
  18. wurger

    wurger Senior member

    Messages:
    2,887
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Location:
    Sydney
    

    I think it's more to do with the symmetric round toe, combined with the lower quarters for lower insteps. UK shoes are generally more asymmetrical with a lot more curves on the outside of the shoe when come to lasts which I think is more elegant.
     
  19. Mr Knightley

    Mr Knightley Senior member

    Messages:
    1,745
    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2013
    Location:
    England
    Quote:I happen to be wearing my Kews today and the resemblance with the Drake is quite striking.
     
  20. Ivar

    Ivar Senior member

    Messages:
    928
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2010
    Location:
    Stockholm

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by