LOAKE APPRECIATION THREAD

[APHK]

I currently have the Strand and Savoy. The Aldwych will probably be my next purchase.

Loake 1880s are great shoes for the money and I readily wear them in rotation with more expensive shoes.

 

[wurger]

Yes, they are my go to shoes for everyday wearing, good quality and style, especially when it comes down to a pair of black cap toe oxfords.

 

[APHK]

My Savoys.

 

[wurger]

Beautiful full brogue, you can really appreciate the elongated Mayfair last on this pair.

 

[dddrees]

Loake 1880 Aldwych Black Review

STYLE

The black cap toe oxford is one of the most versatile shoes a man can own, suitable for nearly all formal occasions from office to weddings. The Aldwych is Loake's best seller in the 1880 range and also the most elegant English men's shoe to be recognised by its closed lacing, and its only decoration is the double seam along the straight toe cap and the join between the vamp and the quarters. On a closed lacing shoe, the quarters are sewn under the vamp and fasten together by laces over the tongue, which is sewn onto the vamp.


THE LAST & FIT

The Aldwych is on the Capital last, Loake's most straightforward last, designed to fit standard average feet, true to size. I purchased my normal UK 6.5F which had the right length, sufficient width, comfortable toe box and a snug heel. The Capital F last is similar to Alfred Sargent 724 F last, Tricker's 4537 fitting 5 last, which I also wear in UK 6.5. For reference, I wear a US 7 E in Allen Edmonds Park Avenue and Kenilworth.





WORKMANSHIP

The double stitching on the uppers is neat, same goes for the inside lining. Goodwear welt is stitched aloft, standard for shoes at the 200 pound price point. The soles have nice patterned grooves, which my cobbler applied topy to. There is a slight imbalance between the sole and heel, when the heel stands flat on the ground, there is a small gap between the sole and ground, again, quite common in shoes at this price range with pre-made leather heel blocks. If I look hard enough, I will find some imperfections in finishing and welt edge dressings, but none of these will take away anything from the quality of the shoe.







LEATHER

Both leather uppers and interiors are rather supple, no excess creasing from wearing and very comfortable from the first wearing. There is no suede inside heel counter to help with heel slippage, but that feature seem to be only available on brogue shoes. The upper is not very porous, thus relatively smooth, makes polishing very easy and produces very good shine.







CONCLUSION

Considering its relatively low price of 200 pounds, and been Loake's premiere line, it offers a pair of good quality goodyear welted shoes at a very affordable price, especially for people that doesn't live in UK or the US. Comparing to the my other higher grade English made shoes, there are differences when taking a really close look and feel the leather by hand, but then they do cost around twice as much as the Loakes.

The Loake 1880s, from my experience, are one of the best goodyear welt shoes in terms of fit, style, leather and workmanship in the sub 200 pound price point.

Great review, thanks for taking the time, and thanks for sharing.

 

[wurger]

thanks, dddrees, there is just enough merits and demerits from Loake 1880s to write a review, unlike the higher grade shoes, where they are pretty good or perfect, haha.

 

[Chuckie Egg]

Here are my Loake1880 Edward oxford with victor sole, compared with my Cheaney Avon derby with dainite sole.

I do like the Cheaney but I have to say I prefer the Loake. The leather feels great and burnishes well, and it seems better stitched together than the Cheaney. At least to my non-expert evaluation. I also got complimented on the Loake which was nice

 

[Yowzer]

Here are my Loake1880 Edward oxford with victor sole, compared with my Cheaney Avon derby with dainite sole.



I do like the Cheaney but I have to say I prefer the Loake. The leather feels great and burnishes well, and it seems better stitched together than the Cheaney. At least to my non-expert evaluation. I also got complimented on the Loake which was nice

Noice... double leather soled? The Loake being a closed oxford style looks better too... a tad more elegant..

 

[Chuckie Egg]

Thanks Yowzer

This one 'Edward' has a rubber victor sole - however they also do this same shoe with leather sole but call it 'Ashby'.

I went for the rubber sole as I intend to wear it for all-weather.

The Cheaney was 300 GBP, compared to 200 for the Loake. I truly cannot see a tangible quality difference.

 

[wurger]

Interesting point about the price, Chuckie Egg, it's really a diminishing return for shoes past say 200 pounds.

 

[Chuckie Egg]

Yes wurger, at least I cannot see or feel a marked superiority in the Cheaney. I think Loake 1880 is probably underrated, or maybe the brand equity is lowered by its more budget ranges.

The Cheaneys are nice (I like them too) but little things I notice such as:
- some long-ish thread ends that I had to snip down
- areas of under-polish/dye (e.g. pale area of the vamp under the corner of the lace facing/flap)
- the lace flaps have a more wrinkly leather than the rest of the upper... I'm guessing they are using a lower grade of leather for those parts?

If I was to do a blind assessment without knowing brand/price, to my non-expert eye, I would think the Loake was the more expensive shoe.

 

[wurger]

Loake gets a lot of flak from wearers of their lower range, and Charles Tyrwhitt shoes which were made by Loake, but the ranges I mentioned are not 1880 quality, which is an excellent range at its price point.

And Herring shoes by Loake are quite good quality according to a few SF members too.

 

[Chuckie Egg]

I'm confused as to whether the calf leather Tyrwhitt shoes are Loake 1880. They have a pair of brogue in their sale @ half price GBP 125, was 250...?

 

[wurger]

From the discounts they are doing, and the qualities of CT shoes, I highly doubt it.

 

[alexSF]

The CT shoes made by Loake are clearly advertised as made in northampton, lower price shoes are made abroad.

And consider also that CT shoes are always "on sale", the retail price is the sale price.