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Lining - how much is best?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Dragon, Jul 30, 2006.

  1. Dragon

    Dragon Senior member

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    Maybe this has been discussed before (sorry if it has)...

    How much lining is the best for a jacket?

    Assuming that the tailor produces the same quality for a full lined jacket, partially lined, no lining jacket...what are the merits and de-merits of the amount of lining in a jacket? Just the amount of air flow? [​IMG]
     
  2. kitonbrioni

    kitonbrioni Senior member

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    Usually, the less lining is the best. Nevertheless, it's a personal choice.
     
  3. stach

    stach Senior member

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    How much lining is the best for a jacket?
    Just the amount of air flow? [​IMG]

    All kidding aside, climate is a big consideration. A minimum for me is a full sleeve plus a back yoke lining.
     
  4. thinman

    thinman Senior member

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    All kidding aside, climate is a big consideration. A minimum for me is a full sleeve plus a back yoke lining.

    I agree with this as a minimum. One purpose of the lining is so the wearer can slip the coat on with a minimum of friction. Without sleeve lining, I find it nearly impossible to get my arms into a jacket and I also want the back yoke lined so the jacket drapes smoothly across my upper back.

    I recently order a jacket from WW Chan in light-weight wool with 1/4-lining for coolness in Summer.
     
  5. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It is more work to make a jacket that has less then a full lining. The inside back seams have to look nice and clean. Usually taped.

    If you look at the inside seams of a full line jacket, you will see that they are not as nicely finished.

    Carl
     
  6. Earthmover

    Earthmover Senior member

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    My preference is quarter lining with French piping for all seasons -- I sweat in the winters as well, so as long as the fabric is winter weight, no real need for lining.
     
  7. Tomasso

    Tomasso Senior member

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    what are the de-merits of the amount of lining in a jacket?

    Occasionally a quarter lined jacket, depending on the material, can catch or stick on a knit shirt/sweater like Velcro, thereby affecting the drape. This usually occurs when one stands after having been seated but can be "shaken off", so to say.
     
  8. Quirk

    Quirk Senior member

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    What about pants? Aside from extremely cold climates, is there any reason to get a fully lined pair of pants?
     
  9. thinman

    thinman Senior member

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    What about pants? Aside from extremely cold climates, is there any reason to get a fully lined pair of pants?

    (1) Friction causes the lining to wear instead of the trousers themselves
    (2) You prefer the feel of the lining next to your skin.

    Earthmover, what is "French piping"?
     
  10. Tomasso

    Tomasso Senior member

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    What about pants? Aside from extremely cold climates, is there any reason to get a fully lined pair of pants?

    I've found that bemberg/silk lined trousers(from the waist to the knee) can add a chill to the legs in the winter and add unneeded warmth in the summer.
     
  11. Quirk

    Quirk Senior member

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    (1) Friction causes the lining to wear instead of the trousers themselves

    Thanks. But does this really make a difference? Pants usually wear out in the seat/thigh area anyway, so I'm skeptical how much help it would be to have lining from the knee to the ankle. And doesn't most wear to your pants come from the outside friction anyway (chairs), rather than inside friction (underwear and skin)?
     
  12. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

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    Pants-lining is most useful from the knee up, so the pants don't catch as you sit and stand. The only reason for full lining, aside from possible warmth in winter, would be to avoid either a seam or the lining itself showing through thin and/or light-colored pants (a woman I once met was complaining that Navy dress whites were lined only to the knee, so you could see through the pants where the lining ended. She was surprised to learn that men's pants are not, as a rule, fully lined).
     
  13. GQgeek

    GQgeek Senior member

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    What about pants? Aside from extremely cold climates, is there any reason to get a fully lined pair of pants?

    Yes. Depending on the fabric weight and color, sometimes it's needed to prevent the pants from being overly transparent. I just got a pair of cream colored pants that turned-out horribly because of the way they were lined.

    Without a lining, you could see a distinct seam all the way down the leg of the pant. Any socks that didn't closely match the fabric color would also show through. The pockets were clearly visible underneath the fabric while i was wearing them. They looked absolutely terrible.

    A full lining is required for pants like that because it puts an extra layer in-between the pockets thereby preventing them from being visible and also renders the outseam of the leg much less visible.

    Depending on the tightness of the pants, the full lining makes them a bit less comfortable, but it's honestly not that noticeable. It also makes them a bit warmer to wear, but it's not the end of the world, although given the choice, I prefer lining only to the knee.
     
  14. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    tomasso is right. regular lining adds an extra layer to summer pants and that holds in body heat, not cool. the lining will not insulate in the winter and feels cold against the skin.
     
  15. Earthmover

    Earthmover Senior member

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    (1) Friction causes the lining to wear instead of the trousers themselves
    (2) You prefer the feel of the lining next to your skin.

    Earthmover, what is "French piping"?


    My understanding of French piping is when they finish the exposed seams (I believe, with the same material as the lining) so that they are covered by about 1/4" of lining material at the end of each seam. J.Crew had a few of these in earlier seasons, on the lower end, and I've seen a few high-end sportcoats with this feature. I don't think it does anything functional except that I think it makes the coat look real nice, especially if you play around with lining colors.
     
  16. Tomasso

    Tomasso Senior member

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    My understanding of French piping is when they finish the exposed seams (I believe, with the same material as the lining) so that they are covered by about 1/4" of lining material at the end of each seam.

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Earthmover

    Earthmover Senior member

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    Ah yes, there it is! Do you know if most respectable bespoke makers will do that? That would be another reason why I should go bespoke, but I also want to lose some damn pounds before I start. I will also lose some pounds after going bespoke, but that will be worth even pence...
     
  18. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG]
    Geez. I thought it would be piping with a little tongue [​IMG].
     
  19. Kent Wang

    Kent Wang Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    I don't think it does anything functional except that I think it makes the coat look real nice, especially if you play around with lining colors.
    I think there is also less potential for snagging and sticking.
     
  20. Dragon

    Dragon Senior member

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    Thank you very much everyone for sharing your knowledge.
     

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