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Linen sportcoat, to canvas or not?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by edmorel, May 4, 2006.

  1. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Looking at having a linen sportcoat made and I'm thinking that the canvas would show through the front of the jacket. Would this be the case or is it a matter of how good/bad the tailor is. I'd like a canvas front and canvas lapels as I do not like the way linen sportcoats look most of the time. They get very wrinkly and the lapels fold funny. I'm looking for a relaxed yet sharp jacket which will retain it's shape, at least as much as is possible with linen.
     
  2. Teacher

    Teacher Senior member

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    The linen used for suiting should not be transparent; therefore, I'd advise to go with a canvassed construction.
     
  3. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Bump. I was wondering the same thing. Are there different gauges of canvas used for heavier cloth or lighter cloth?
     
  4. Bull

    Bull Senior member

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    Looking at having a linen sportcoat made and I'm thinking that the canvas would show through the front of the jacket. Would this be the case or is it a matter of how good/bad the tailor is. I'd like a canvas front and canvas lapels as I do not like the way linen sportcoats look most of the time. They get very wrinkly and the lapels fold funny. I'm looking for a relaxed yet sharp jacket which will retain it's shape, at least as much as is possible with linen.

    Go for canvas but, except for the front, let it be otherwise as unlined. The back should be as close to fully unlined as possible.
     
  5. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    my god I've been here since 2006 [​IMG]
     
  6. holymadness

    holymadness Senior member

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    Uncanvassed and unconstructed. The point of a linen jacket is to keep you cool in hot weather. An extra layer of horsehair plus lining is antithetical to the goal. EDIT: wtf I replied to a necro thread. [​IMG] Hey ed, you sure were dumb 4 years ago.
     
  7. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    All my linen jackets have canvas fronts. Never had a problem with seeing through.

    Dark shades of linen can look "shimmery" with a white (or cream) canvas so tailors tend to use black for that. You won't notice.
     
  8. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Dark shades of linen can look "shimmery" with a white (or cream) canvas so tailors tend to use black for that. You won't notice.

    Sometimes they still use white and you clearly notice.... [​IMG]
     
  9. JayJay

    JayJay Senior member

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    Uncanvassed and unconstructed. The point of a linen jacket is to keep you cool in hot weather. An extra layer of horsehair plus lining is antithetical to the goal.

    EDIT: wtf I replied to a necro thread. [​IMG] Hey ed, you sure were dumb 4 years ago.

    I have both but prefer my uncanvassed and unconstructed. It's a great travel and all occasion jacket.
     
  10. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Manton, does your tailor use a lighter weight canvas for your linen jackets? Or doesn't it matter?

    I read Ed's original post to mean he didn't want something too "stiff" or too "flimsy" for linen. I thought using a thinner gauge canvas on the lapels and chest would be just enough to maintain some jacket shape. But, wasn't sure if canvas came in different weights.

    Sorry to call you out, Ed. I've been here longer![​IMG]
     
  11. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    My linen sportcoat is canvassed and still wears very cool - I love it. I suggest you stay with the canvas.
     
  12. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

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    Mine are canvassed and for the most part unlined. The canvas doesn't show in front.
     
  13. Cant kill da Rooster

    Cant kill da Rooster Senior member

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    my god I've been here since 2006 [​IMG]
    How did the jacket turn out?
     
  14. enarchay

    enarchay Senior member

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    How much does it cost to have one made?
     
  15. JayJay

    JayJay Senior member

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    Mine are canvassed and for the most part unlined. The canvas doesn't show in front.
    The canvas doesn't show in the canvassed one I have. That one is a half-lined blazer and is quite dressy.
     
  16. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Funny how there are so many differing opinions on the topic. I have a canvassed linen sportcoat with half lining and the lining is made of a cotton shirting material. I like it a lot, but am thinking I'd like to try one without a canvas next. Likely a DB.

    I was thinking an alternative to not make it too flimsy would be to use an additional layer or two of the linen itself as the canvas to make it a touch more robust. Could be a silly idea, but curious if it would work. I would then have no lining of any kind and natural shoulders.
     
  17. the_sartorialist

    the_sartorialist Senior member

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    I was thinking an alternative to not make it too flimsy would be to use an additional layer or two of the linen itself as the canvas to make it a touch more robust. Could be a silly idea, but curious if it would work. I would then have no lining of any kind and natural shoulders.

    I was thinking the same thing, only to use a lightweight fresco rather than linen. So it would simply be cut with a self-facing (or french facing?) cloth as though to conceal a canvas, but in reality, there would be no canvas, so the double layer of fresco should hopefully give it enough body.

    Anyone tried this before?
     
  18. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Manton, does your tailor use a lighter weight canvas for your linen jackets? Or doesn't it matter?
    Same canvas, so far as I know, but then he uses soft stuff for everything.
     
  19. maomao1980

    maomao1980 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Are you having this made by Volpe? If so, I imagine the canvas used by the Neapolitans will be very soft and light. You can ask to have just a canvas chest piece, no lapel canvas. BTW, the jkt should be self-fabric lined in the front quarters and no lining anywhere else (save for the upper back and sleeves)
     

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