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Linen shirts

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Kent Wang, Mar 20, 2008.

  1. Kent Wang

    Kent Wang Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    I am thinking of designing some linen shirts. I recall reading that cotton/linen blends are better as they don't wrinkle as much as pure linen. If so, what's the ideal percentage, 50/50?

    What style? I don't want to make a casual shirt, just something I could wear underneath a summer suit, which would also be flexible enough to wear without a jacket. Should such a shirt have collar stays?
     


  2. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    50/50 is about right, you could also do 60/40 in either direction.

    Linen-cotton is amazingly versatile. I have it in a lot of configurations: tab collar, BD, medium spread, button cuff, French cuff, etc. BD linen cotton is a great summer shirt. Can be worn under a suit with a tie, or open necked with odd trousers and no jacket. No stays for a BD of course, but the spread should probably have them. Italophiles who like floppy collars can always just leave them out.
     


  3. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

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    Yes, or hidden buttons. Otherwise you can't control the collar with a jacket on.
     


  4. Master Shake

    Master Shake Senior member

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    I get linen/cotton mix shirts to avoid the wrinkles. I don't know what the percentages for each are in the mix. I style these the exact same as my cotton dress shirts -- same collar, same fit, etc. (although I have never, and don't plan on ever, getting one made with french cuffs). I get my shirts with collar stays, yes.
     


  5. Zegnamtl

    Zegnamtl Senior member

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    100 percent linen, soft, light, and let the wind blow through on the nastiest of days.
    Collar stays, dressy in appearance, but light and airy in use.

    I have a Borrelli and a Barba that fit into this category and while I wear them rarely, I love dearly on the days I do.


    ......
    I don't want to make a casual shirt, just something I could wear underneath a summer suit, which would also be flexible enough to wear without a jacket. Should such a shirt have collar stays?
     


  6. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    ^^^ I don't find my pure linen shirts soft or light compared to linen-cotton. Pure linen has to be (or at least in my experience is) thicker, stiffer, and denser than linen-cotton.

    I like it for certain things, but linen-cotton is better as a dress fabric, and better on the brutally hot days.
     


  7. Baron

    Baron Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I have a linen BD shirt that I love - in fact the collar is starting to wear through. I'd love a few more in a linen-cotton blend.
     


  8. airportlobby

    airportlobby Senior member

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    I like a 50/50 w/ invisible button down collars. I also like a shorter length so they can either be tucked in or worn untucked with jeans. Hard to find shirts that fit all these qualifications.
     


  9. redtree00

    redtree00 Senior member

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    I get the most use out of cotton/linen blend button downs.

    I have one spread collar that I love but can't find anything like it. Has a collar similar to the H&K cutaway.
     


  10. remo72tg

    remo72tg Well-Known Member

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    Could you guys recommend any brands that make nice cotton/linen shirts.
     


  11. Kent Wang

    Kent Wang Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Kent Wang will, in about three months.
     


  12. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I have linen and 60/40 linen cotton shirts. I have found after much trial and error that a cutaway or wide spread collar works best. With collar stays it tucks nicely under the lapels of a jacket. Without stays it has a bit more casual look that is good with a linen or cotton jacket when I want to be very casual. Or, for the most casual look and comfort on a weekend or hot day, I love rolling up the sleeves with no tie and of course no jacket. I always buy a slightly smaller collar with linen shirts. They don't get as wild that way.
     


  13. Tomasso

    Tomasso Senior member

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    for the most casual look and comfort on a weekend or hot day, I love rolling up the sleeves with no tie and of course no jacket.
    [​IMG]
     


  14. remo72tg

    remo72tg Well-Known Member

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    Anyone can tell me where to find Borrelli Cotton/Linen shirts in NYC .
     


  15. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    The Borrelli shop?
     


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