Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Equus Leather, Aug 12, 2011.
just paid for my 1 1/4 belt in australian nut with nickle west end ... thanks charlie!
Just to say we are definitely going ahead with London Tan as well now. We have some leather remaining for both, particularly London Tan but not that much, so don't leave it too long of you'd like to going in!
Many thanks to all the participants,
it was asked in the other thread, but can the belts be made with snaps to change the buckle in the future? that would be great!
will there be any ridges or stitching down the sides of the belt? trying to decide whether to go for a more casual 1.5" with jeans if no, or if there is, maybe a slimmer version to wear with dress pants.
Stitching is part of our signature really but I know people like to change buckles some times so we can do Chicago screws if that's any use to people? We haven't worked with snaps and whilst I don't like or dislike them more than screw fittings we'd have to test them first so I don't plan to use them on this run
Regarding the edges, crease marks are also a part of our signature way of making the belts, but we can happily miss them of if someone doesn't want them. We don't do ornamental stitching, it's either there to hold a buckle or lining in place or not at all, so definitely no stitching round the edge of these
Hope this helps,
yeah the ability to change out buckle would be great for long term use. so screws or snaps, i dont really care.
thanks so much!!!
Just an update to this.
First of all, it's been pointed out that Russet/undyed leather is liked in here. If there is enough interest I'd be prepared to add it as third colour to this run. If your keen let me know!
London Tan has sold well but there is still plenty left, if youd like a belt just let me know
Australian Nut has all but sold out, if your keen don't leave it too long or you may not get one.
Many thanks to all subscribers! I'll post progress as the project continues
^ Would be very interested in the undyed bridle butt...be curious to see how it compares to Baker's raw oak-bark.
Why do they call it Australian nut?
I think this is the same leather from Baker's that I have here (mine is thicker at 6mm):
If so, it's a fantastic leather
I'll add you to the interested list. I suspect that the difference between the raw oak bark and the russet bridle butt will be that the bridle butt has been stuffed with tanners grease. I will enquire though, Bakers descriptions are somewhat idiosyncratic to say the least and their price list tends to require clarification! Rather nicely it also includes their telegraphic address!
Regarding Australian Nut, it's a very old bridle leather colour that goes back centuries and I suspect was at one point made with nuts from Australia! It's a brown with some red in as a rule and all the makers of proper English bridle butt have a version.
Good pics in both threads btw..
^ I see, thanks for the description!
I've heard of nut tanning in old days (but nut dyeing?), but it seems as if most modern tanneries use nut powder & concentrates?
Very interesting though.
My bad, when I bought that particular belt it was stated to be made of 'oak-tanned shoulder', and it was mentioned that Baker's oak-tan doesn't get the fat/oil immersion or setting treatment that the bridle does.
Was wondering how you'd compare Baker's bridle compared to the bridle curried by Sedgewick?
Thanks in advance for your insight
All kinds of random things have been used to dye leather and most other things over the years. Nowadays as you say the dye is very likely to be a concentrate powder with a distinct lack of actual nut in it, I'll ask the tanneries we deal with though when I next speak to them, it's an interesting one.
The oak tanned shoulder will be a lower grade leather than bridle butt, the tanneries use the better grades fir the more expensive leather and butt is a more dense less scared bit of the hide. As you say the stuffing with oils/waxes is missed out as well.
Comparing Sedgwick and Bakers is quite difficult TBH. They are both extremely good, the best in the world really and the differences are down to the preferences of the individual. The most obvious difference is the Bakers in the colours we're looking at is far more aniline, there tends to be a clear mottling which is pleasing if that's what you want. It feels very nice in the hand, is supple and has a very nice leather smell as well. It will age beautifully and the colours will mature very well. In favour of the Sedgwicks it is available in a much wider range of colours and the colours are very consistent both accros the butt and between batches, so we as makers know what colour something will be before it arrives. We get through a lot of Sedgwick leather and I have only ever returned 1 piece, they very consistently make very good dense leather.
^ Thanks for that!
Will have to try out a couple of your Sedgwick ones
I'll be interested in your view on the differences if you do.
This is a repost from Mens Clothing - sorry, wanted to make sure none missed out who is involved
As promised photos as we progress. The Bakers delivery had just delivered both the Australian Nut and London Tan
For those of you who either know Sedgwicks leather through us or anyone else
The Australian Nut is redder and variegated in colour and changes colour when its flexed, not dissimilar to a pull up leather. It shows more scars and marks than I would expect in a Sedgwick piece but this compliments the colour. Its a similar substance to Sedgwicks but noticeably more flexible. Its more heavily greased as it arrives. The colour is very pleasing to my eye. In the image below Sedgwicks is on the left.
The London Tan is a more warm colour than the Sedgwicks and shows more variation but not to quite the same degree as the Aus Nut. Whilst the Aus Nut from Bakers really isn't the same colour as Sedgwicks Aus Nut the London Tan from both makers is quite similar. On balance I have to say I prefer the colour of the Bakers I think, its a little more orange and a little less yellow and is extremely nice. In common with the Aus Nut its about the same weight as the Sedgwicks but more flexible. The cut strap in the photo below is Sedgwicks. The photo doesn't do justice to either colour but London Tan is a swine to photograph at the best of times...
Better photos will follow in due course but I thought people would be interested in quick first impressions. I think people will be pleased when they see their belts first hand. The London Tan isn't fully subscribed and I think people are missing out because its one of the nicest coloured bits of leather Ive seen for a long time.
I have a sample of the Russet here as well and will be in touch with those who have expressed an interest in due course
is the australian nut list full?
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