Levi raw denim shrinkage observations

[Conrad]

All the posts here that I've read keeping championing how 501's are the only shrink to fit Levi's. Well, I've always bought rigid 517's and that didn't sound quite right to me as they always seemed to come big and shrink ALOT when initially washed. Anyway, this leads to my question and observations.


Observations and Measurements:

I picked up a pair of raw 517's about 2 weeks ago. I wear a 29x30, so I grabbed a pair in 29x30 like I always do- but with slightly more specific intentions. While I was at it I also grabbed a pair of stone washed 517's and headed for the fitting room.

The stonewashed fit me absolutely perfectly, so then I put on the raw denim and noticed that the legs and waist were both about 2" too big. I then compared them to a couple other pairs of raw 517's and a pair of raw 501's and they were all about the same, 2" too big all around.

So I put the stonewashed back and left with the raw denim. I then measured the pants pre-wash and measured 31x33. From there I've treated them like any other pair of raw denim pants I buy.

My initial wash was just a warm no soap wash to knock the excess dye out and then a warm dry. I measured after the wash and the pants were down to about a 30X32. Good enough around the wasit for wearing, but i had to roll the pants inside about 2" so I wouldn't have all kinds of extra breaks in my pants.

I wore them on and off over the next two weeks before the first hard wash.

Well, today was the first hard wash. Washed the pants hot/hot and dried on "nuclear"

with the moisture sensor set to "extra dry".

Pulled the pants out of the dryer and they were a little tight buttoning, wore them until they loosened back up, and then took them off and remeasured. The pants now measure an actual 29X30 and there is a bow in the zipper where it was perfectly straight when I bought them.


Question:

So even though these pants shrunk a solid 10%, why are they not considered shrink to fit? Is it because they don't shrink during an inital soak, or is it just becuase they're "not supposed to shrink that much"? (which obviously they are supposed to if the raw pants were 2x3" too big)

Justin

 

[whodini]

There's a difference between washing and drying a regular pair of one-wash jeans with the point of shrinking them as much as humanly possible and soaking a pair of unwashed, unsanforized raw jeans.

Those raw 517s aren't STF because they've already been washed. If Levi's has sizing issues then it's only contributing to your confusion.

You do understand there's a difference between "raw" and "STF" I assume.

 

[Conrad]

That's what I'm trying to figure out, the exact difference between raw and shrink to fit. While the raw 517's are sanforized, they come emensely large for their labeled size. If you wash them hot/hot and dry them hot until totally dry, they shrink to their labeled size.

If you wash them according to label directions they shrink the expected 5% or so for sanforized denim, but if you wash them with absolute shrinkage in mind they shrink to their labeled size. They lost a solid 2" in waist and 3" in inseam, which are values typically attributed to "shrinkable" denim, and these are values i've normally gotten from raw levi denim- even though this is the first time i've actually documented the change.

So even though raw Levi denim will shrink 10% if washed and dried as hot as possible, what exactly is the definition difference between "raw" and "shrink to fit"?

 

[whacked]

Originally Posted by whodini

Those raw 517s aren't STF because they've already been washed.
While the terminology might not carry 100% over to SF/sufu-talk, the 517 Rigid is said to be "made of 100% cotton unwashed preshrunk heavyweight denim" here:
http://www.drysdales.com/Mens/Jeans/...Cut-Jeans.html

Originally Posted by Conrad

what exactly is the definition difference between "raw" and "shrink to fit"?
I suspect it's just sizing recommendation: for 501STF you're supposed to size up 2 in the waist and 3 in inseam (or something like that), while you get your true size in rigid 517s.

 

[whodini]

Originally Posted by whacked

I suspect it's just sizing recommendation: for 501STF you're supposed to size up 2 in the waist and 3 in inseam (or something like that), while you get your true size in rigid 517s.
Dear Whacked, Please stop. Sincerely, SW&D Conrad, you're taking a pair of jeans (517) that have already been PRESHRUNK and you're using EXTRAORDINARY means to SHRINK them further. Haven't you ever had a favorite t-shirt that you accidentally threw in the dryer that was once a size L and came out a child's medium? That's what's going on here. The problem is that Levi's has sizing issues and that is what's throwing you off. The vanity sizing of the 517's are in no way an indication or recommendation that you try to shrink them further. "Raw" describes a pair of jeans the way "green" describes grass. It is NOT supposed to be a guide of whether or not a pair has been previously washed (aka, preshrunk in the case of the 517's), is sanforized (a term you should look up), or is completely unwashed and unsanforized. "Raw" simply means "untouched" in terms of lack of distressing or treatment (not stonewashed, acid washed, etc.). STF is meant to shrink under the normal conditions of coming in contact with water for the first time. If you try washing them in hot water before throwing them into a hot dryer, then they will shrink EVEN MORE than intended. Why? Because HEAT SHRINKS COTTON. It has no bias as to what the clothing may be. Again, the problem is that Levi's has sizing issues and that is what's throwing you off. The vanity sizing of the 517's is in no way an indication or recommendation that you try to shrink them further. Hopefully you will also soon realize that any "shrinking" you did in the waist on the 517's will be undone by wearing them regularly. THIS IS NOT THE CASE IN STF's as they are originally UNWASHED and MEANT TO SHRINK.

 

[I<3Bacon]

I used to have those raw 514's (with the scrape marks on em). The waist was actually tighter than my pre-distressed 514's (but stretched out). Inseam was spot on.