Letting out chest on jacket...

[Jay687]

I have yet to find a jacket that fits me well. I've tried a decent amount of brands... none work. They all will either fit my shoulders perfect and pull in the chest or fit the and be too large on the shoulders.

And being too big in the shoulders looks way worse. I'd rather it pull (which if the jacket is unbuttoned doesn't show) at the chest and fit everywhere else.

However, I do want to be able to button it without it pulling. Not that all jackets pull a lot, but I've definitely never had one fit really properly in both shoulders and chest.

So, how much can you usually let out in the chest?

Say there isn't enough material... are there any other options? Assuming it's at the seams on the sides, under your arms, could you get away with using a similar weight/color fabric to extend that half an inch needed? I doubt anyone would ever even notice/see.


Before people say, look for another brand... 1. I've tried. 2. I have a limited budget. and 3. I'm also short, so it's hard enough to also find brands that run a bit shorter as well (and even then need to get the length chopped about an inch).


So, lemme know about letting chest out. How much is usually possible. The cost. How difficult (i.e. need to find a good tailor). And so on...

Thanks.

 

[Prince of Paisley]

I have a friend with a similar problem.

I would suggest (though there are many others with more knowledge than I) that some jackets can be let out from the seams on the sides/back - depending on how much extra fabric was used in the contruction of the jacket, to allow for such alterations.

Generally I would say cheaper jackets tend not to have enough extra fabric at the seams to have them let out. You may have to rely on SAs to know their product and advise you about this on a case-by-case basis.....

 

[Jay687]

I guess I'll have to do some research on suits I'm interested in and see...

I know one suit in my price range is JCrew. I've tried them on. Fit well in shoulders. The slightly shorter trend makes it a nice length for me. Additionally, having 9" drop, it helps being able to get separates. Overall, it's the best choice in the price range... that I've found... but has the problem with the chest being too small on the 36S.

Does anyone happen to have a JCrew ludlow suit handy? Perhaps they could have a look and see if it could be let out at all?

 

[Jay687]

Another option... although outside my price range of $500 - 600... is mr. ned in NYC. It seems he can do it for $850. Though, plus tax and me traveling out there (stupid mta increasing ticket prices), it'll be closer to $1000.

Now, I can get J Crew with coupon I was sent... for $500 (a bit more with tax). But this would then need to be tailored to let out the chest, which might or might not even work. I'd also still need the jacket shortened slightly and sleeves and jacket.

I'd say the Jcrew suit will still probably be under $600.

Or I could pay the few hundred more (definitely out of price range), and considering it'll be my only suit... perhaps it's worth it.

I'm just not sure.

 

[landshark]

I was going to suggest MTM or bespoke. Spending less money on a cheaper suit and then spending some good money trying to get it to fit you will take more time, money, and effort than is necessary. MTM should fit you right off the bat with minor alterations afterwards. It's a small price to pay in order to save you a long headache. It is better to have one well fitting suit, than many ill-fitting ones.

 

[Jay687]

Yea. I think that's the route I'll go. It's not too bad. Since really, all the decent suits I'd get OTR are 400 - 750. Throw in tailoring costs and time... still won't have perfect fit.

So, why not just go all out and get it MTM I suppose.

Man, it's expensive not fitting into OTR better. I know it'll never fit anyone perfect, but being short and barrel chested... definitely got the ****** end of the stick.

 

[a tailor]

jay if you mean tight across the front of the chest it cant be let out. there is just no cloth there.
if you choose a larger size then the shoulder alteration is quite expensive.
but then the garment is too large else wear, and that means still more alterations.

 

[landshark]

You should consider it a blessing. You can customize most everything on a MTM suit to your own desire.

 

[Jay687]

I suppose in a sense, lol... being forced to go MTM to get something that fits appropriately. Now I get the other luxuries.

Well, I think I'll be heading to Mr. Ned. For fabric though... just since now I must choose a fabric. What would one suggest for a good 4 season suit? I'm looking for a charcoal grey... and I know fabrics come in oz and thread count. Advice anyone? Perhaps I'll start a thread asking about it.

 

[arc]

Do some searches for year round fabrics. It's discussed ad nauseum in newbie MTM/bespoke threads, so there's a wealth of information. No need to start yet another new thread.

 

[Jay687]

^Thanks... will do. No new thread needed.

 

[Icehawk]

It isn't always easy but if you can rub around the seams you can often feel if there is extra fabric - usually there isn't a lot but sometimes there is, for example a Theory sport coat I have must have a good 1.5" worth of extra material a tailor could work with. Even a coat I have with little allowance my tailor was able to relax just enough to make it comfortable.

 

[mic]

Originally Posted by Icehawk

It isn't always easy but if you can rub around the seams you can often feel if there is extra fabric - usually there isn't a lot but sometimes there is, for example a Theory sport coat I have must have a good 1.5" worth of extra material a tailor could work with. Even a coat I have with little allowance my tailor was able to relax just enough to make it comfortable.

This has been my experience as well.