Let's talk jacket length. Boxy/slim how short can you go?

[KtownGreg]

In response to a WAYWT post, fellow SFer suggested my jackets lengths were a bit long. I've been reworking many of my pieces after finding SF in search of better fit. Many items have been taken in but I always felt the length acceptable. Examples:

Does one continue with the old rules of jacket length fitting into cupped (bent fingers) or does the recent shift toward slim suits push jacket length north?

Slimming pants and tailoring jackets have helped me create a more trim look. How short does one need to go to add the illusion of height? I suspect this is no "rule" and it may be personal taste??

 

[ysc]

Isn't a little below your backside meant to be a better guideline than into your cupped hand? As the length of the jacket has to suit your body length, not your arm length.

I am by no means an expert, but some of your jackets look a bit long - particularly the first, too long and boxy, also the trousers in the last picture look much to baggy, at least to my eye.


On a slight aside I like that in all the picture you are striking a heroic pose, eyes to the sky, you look like you are about to launch into the air to right wrongs.

 

[KtownGreg]

Interesting. I remember my grandfather telling me to put the jacket on and cup my hands. If the jacket fell comfortably into my palm he said it fit. He was NOT a tailor but I've used this ever since when buying a jacket. What ref. do others use?

My jackets may be a bit long. The pants you mention have undergone dramatic reduction. As to the pose. It's me asking for a little sartorial help.

Thanks for responding.

 

[JayJay]

The length of your jackets looks fine to me.

 

[calvinloke]

I knew this is coming. For me I like jackets to reach the knuckles of my fingers.

 

[Atlantic herring]

I would perhaps also argue that the length of your trousers are a bit on the longer side. Especially on the last picture. Just to shorten them a bit might have the wanted effect to ad height.

 

[SkinnyGoomba]

Ktown,

2, 3 and 4 look fine.

1 looks a hair long, but it wouldnt bother me.

the shorter jackets are definetly more popular now, but a jacket with more open quarters does more for that effect then the length.

 

[TRINI]

Originally Posted by KtownGreg

Interesting. I remember my grandfather telling me to put the jacket on and cup my hands. If the jacket fell comfortably into my palm he said it fit. He was NOT a tailor but I've used this ever since when buying a jacket. What ref. do others use?

Ktown - when you do this, does the hem of the jacket fall into the middle of your palm or into your fingers?

Some of your jackets definitely look a touch longer (fingers) while others look fine (palm).

 

[Philosoph]

^+1. I think the blazer in the last pic looks good, but the pants aren't helping it.

You could go a little shorter, but they don't look egregiously long to me.

 

[philosophe]

Originally Posted by SkinnyGoomba

Ktown,

2, 3 and 4 look fine.

1 looks a hair long, but it wouldnt bother me.

the shorter jackets are definetly more popular now, but a jacket with more open quarters does more for that effect then the length.

I agree with SG. For you, the key is to avoid boxy cuts.

 

[chorse123]

The length of the jacket relates to your torso, not your arms, so any hand/length measurement seems foolish to me.

 

[zalb916]

Being embarrasingly short, I struggle with jacket length as well. I think part of the problem can result from a contrast between jackets and pants. For example, the jacket in the second picture appears to have the best length, and I think part of that may come from the fact that it doesn't have the same contrast in colors as do the other outfits. I think PG once pointed out (and I echoed his comments) in WAYWRN that suits really help counter shortness, because you don't break up the body. Another guide for determining appropriate length is to compare the length of your coat to the length from the bottom of the coat to the hem of your pants. These proportions should be relatively close. If you notice below, most of your proportions are pretty close, except the first picture, which is a bit off to me.

 

[Parker]

+1 to zbromer.

Ktown, your jacket length look good to me except for #1 which looks a tad long. I think your best bet is a trimmer cut jacket with more open quarters as skinny pointed out. Darker colors and suits (as opposed to contrasting jacket and trou) will also help. I like #4 jacket the best for fit, but you could really slim down those trou: taper with no break.

For determining jacket length I like Flusser's method that zbromber mentioned: the length of the jacket from collar seam to hem should be about the same as from hem to floor. My personal preference is that the jacket totally cover the seat and crotch seam so that there are two distinct pant legs that emerge from under the jacket.

 

[KtownGreg]

Great input guys. Thanks for the interesting approaches. PG has been on me to hit Chan's.
I simply spend most of my day without the coat (nes.) and have shunned suits. I'm beginning to see I need to consider other options.

 

[Sebastian]

I don't mean to go off-topic, but I saw this pic of Howard Hughes on Tom Mahons Blog.

Do you think the lenght works?
I aquired two double breasted jackets for summer and they are about the same lenght (maybe not that short). Do you think a jacket can be shorter, if you wear it in a casual-summer setting?