Let's speak high end suits here

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Scabal Fanatic, Jan 25, 2013.

  1. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Threads about specific clothing brands and makers are still alive. And the cloth thread is still alive as well.
     


  2. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    But the brand threads kind of suck. There is only so much I care to read about SuitSupply.
     


  3. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    It's definitely a cool coat, and I didn't want to rain on the parade in your thread, but I think it makes you look incredibly short.
     


  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I am incredibly short.
     


  5. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    [​IMG] Fair enough!
     


  6. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    The upside of those brand threads is that they come with brightly labeled minefields to read or to avoid.

    You are not incredibly short. Putin, Sarko, Bunga Bunga are all between 160-170cm.

    Or you meant the other body measurement...
     


  7. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Can you covert that into American? I'm 5 feet and 4 inches. I'd convert it myself, but as an American I feel too lazy and entitled.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2013


  8. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    +1

    So far the OP has not contributed anything whatever. Does he even have any suits matching the descriptor he uses I wonder?
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2013


  9. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    If my mental arithmetic is correct, that means that you are about 162cm tall.

    Berlusconi is 165cm tall and Putin and Sarkozy are 169-170cm tall, so you're a bit under them (about an inch less than Berlo and 3-3.5inches less than Sarko and Putin).
     


  10. Millerp

    Millerp Senior member

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    I think most would agree that the highest quality US factory made suit brand is Oxxford.
    Available OTR, MTM and for certain celebrities or VIPs they will do bespoke.
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2013


  11. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

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    Oh hands down, i remember reading a quote somewhere from an interview with the head of Borrelli (i think) and he was asked if his was the best suits in the world and he answered they were the 2nd best and when asked who was the best he responded "oxxford". Their shirts were for a while made in the Kiton factory if I'm not mistaken as well.
     


  12. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    This is not really true. I was a "bespoke" client of Oxxford before switching to Rubinacci. And I was definitely not a celebrity. Anybody can do it--you just have to ask.

    Moreover, it's not really bespoke. It is really MTM, but with a basted fitting. As in MTM, someone takes your measurements, sends them somewhere else, and there a pattern is generated based off of a template. They put together a basted try-on for you and send it to the store you ordered the suit from. The salesperson or alterations tailor at that shop then notes tweaks to the suit in basted form and sends them back to the factory in Chicago, along with the suit. The factory interprets the tweaks and alters the suit, possibly altering your pattern itself.

    The pattern cannot be fine-tuned as in proper bespoke because the person fitting you is not the person altering the pattern. Theoretically, you can do as I did, and go directly to the factory to be fitted by Rocco, their tailoring director. However, he will just do as a salesperson at a shop would do, and pass his notes onto someone else who will alter the pattern. I'm not sure how much is done by hand versus simply tweaked on the computer. So, the benefit of seeing Rocco himself is limited. Moreover, it might even be a detriment. He's not really in the daily business of fitting individuals, so it's not his forte (I know this firsthand). A skilled, experienced salesperson used to dealing with Oxxford could be a better fitter.

    What you get at the end is more complicated, possibly more tuned, MTM--not bespoke.


    Have you inspected an Oxxford garment? Technically, they may have more hand-stitching than a Kiton or Borrelli. But the finishing and fineness of that hand-stitching tends to be markedly inferior. So, which is "better?" I think it's an academic, useless question. The issue is going to be what fits you better and what style you prefer. Who cares which factory-made suit has marginally more hand-stitching?

    If you really want to reap the benefits of a handmade product, you'll need to go bespoke. And that's why we stopped talking much about these high-end MTM products years ago. Everyone who could afford them realized they are a bad deal and there is far better stuff out there.
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2013


  13. Apollotrader

    Apollotrader Senior member

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    +1000 BTW Foo, the wallet is exceptional.
     


  14. Millerp

    Millerp Senior member

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    OK. Fair enough. I asked a salesman at the NYC store whether anyone could get a custom made suit
    like Oxxford did for George W. Bush. He laughed and said something like: "We give special attention to VIPs".
     


  15. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Yeah, that's just talking themselves up. Ignore it.
     


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