Let's compare our countries

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by ernest, Sep 1, 2004.

  1. ernest

    ernest Senior member

    Messages:
    2,564
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2004
    Location:
    PARIS
    As Albania or Island, no doubt.

    May I ask you to tell me german brands' name making garments at level of style & quality of :

    For France : Dior, Lanvin, YSL, Montana, Rykiel, Gaultier, Vuitton, Hermes, Arny's, Charvet, Corthey...
    For Uk : Dunhill, Lobb, Green, C&J, Hacket, H&H, T&A, Burberry...
    For Italia : Kiton, Cerruti, Armani, Zegna, Brioni, Barbera...

    Give me just 3 names, one for suit, one for shoes and one for leather goods.
     


  2. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Senior member

    Messages:
    13,141
    Likes Received:
    10
    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2004
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    In my experience with Germany and Austria, there are a higher concentration of RTW/MTM/Bespoke from local tailor shops than other brands, I don't think any particular brand is too dominant when it comes to higher end stuff, although I think at least for business, they tend to be more conservative.
     


  3. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

    Messages:
    6,117
    Likes Received:
    652
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2003
    Location:
    sage
    For shoes, Bengal Stripe can give a more definitive answer, but I believe there is Kukelkorn(sp?), Dinkelaker(sp?).  For small leather goods, I find Goldpfeil quite nice (for bespoke leather goods, N.Janda is superb but oh so expensive), and for suits: Kinze (I know I know they are Austrian, but close enough niet wahr?)

    edit: the shoe brands may not be to everyone's tastes, but from what I recall, the craftsmanship was top notch.
     


  4. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

    Messages:
    25,745
    Likes Received:
    238
    Joined:
    May 24, 2002
    Location:
    Constantinople
    (LabelKing @ 03 Sep. 2004, 9:15) Quote In France, German have reputation to dress like peasants. And it is true that german tourists are easy to reconize in Paris = sandals with socks (often white cheap for sport), t shirts with no sleeves or flower/ou of fashion shirts with no sleeves bermuda shorts But german garments seem to be very strong. You best brands seem to be Adidas and Puma.
    Don't forgot Hugo Boss. Jil Sander while of German origin is linked more with Italy. Especially with Prada's acquisition. There is also Strenesse.
    These brands are unknown in France. Boss is a trap for poor teenagers dreaming to dress like guy from upper classes. Puma or Adidas are references. Not Boss.[/quote] Jil Sander is a very famous brand. I can't imagine that the French do not know of it. I can imagine Strenesse not many people knowing.
     


  5. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

    Messages:
    35,189
    Likes Received:
    12,364
    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2002
    Location:
    Moscow, Idaho
    Clothing (designer): Jil Sander; one of the most influential of the minimalist designers in the 90's; before being bought by Prada, her label was known for simple, perfect cuts in the finest materials (her background was in textiles, after all) with impeccable craftsmanship. Much more influential than *any* French designer in the 90's (nearly all the French houses were floundering compared to the Italians, Brits, and Belgians - and the ew blood in France came in the form of Japanese imports,) expecially in menswear, until Hedi Slimane hit the scene at YSL. Note that LV was revitalized by an American (Marc Jacobs).

    Clothing (tailored): Knize, Austrian, but Germanic in spirit. And there are numerous leser known tailoring houses in Germany.

    Shoes: Ludwig Reiter - not everyone's cup of tea, but definitely up there with the best.

    I'm not a leather goods expert, so I won't comment one that.

    Yes, the average German guy dresses horribly (the billowing shirt tucked into tight black jeans and anchored by chunky black shoes comes immediately to mind), but that doesn't mean that there are no good German brands. Not at all.
     


  6. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

    Messages:
    35,189
    Likes Received:
    12,364
    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2002
    Location:
    Moscow, Idaho
    to which ernest replied:

    Unknown to you, perhaps, but that doesn't mean that they are uninfluential or unknown by the more knowledgeable people, Frenchmen and woemn included. Jil Sander is internationally recognized as one of the foremost designers of the 90's.
     


  7. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

    Messages:
    25,745
    Likes Received:
    238
    Joined:
    May 24, 2002
    Location:
    Constantinople
    The French influence is better felt through luxury luggage, and leathergoods. And obviously couture.

    In R-T-W their spotlight was during the 80's with Claude Montana, and Thierry Mugler. Both of which are financially impotent at this point.

    And France has their respective share of fine tailoring houses.

    Goldpfeil is a very fine leather goods maker. Germnay especially Berlin has a reputation as a center for contemporary art.
     


  8. ernest

    ernest Senior member

    Messages:
    2,564
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2004
    Location:
    PARIS
    Jil Sander... Strenesse.
    to which ernest replied:
    Unknown to you, perhaps, but that doesn't mean that they are uninfluential or unknown by the more knowledgeable people, Frenchmen and woemn included. Â Jil Sander is internationally recognized as one of the foremost designers of the 90's.
    Do you think seriously there is so much people more knowledgeable people than me on clothes? Stop dreaming. My girlfriend loved Jil Sander a few years ago but said it is for women and do not know what they do currently... This is NOT Dior. I ask you a question, please reply. Give me just 3 world famous names. Just 3.... As Famous as Dior, Vuitton, Armani, Burberry....... I never said german has no clothes...just they have no sens of style like french, english or italians and that's why they have no so much famous, trendy brands
     


  9. Brian SD

    Brian SD Moderator

    Messages:
    9,760
    Likes Received:
    122
    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2004
    Location:
    Tokyo
    LA Guy, what has changed since Jil Sander was bought by Prada, and any idea where I can check out some of her original designs? I'm a big fan of Jil Sander's lines from two years ago up until about now, but I had no knowledge of high fashion before and am curious to see her older designs. What year did Prada buy JS, and is Jil still doing designs even under Prada's ownership?

    Edit: Answered my first question by going to firstview. still curious about when Prada bought JS, and if Jil is still doing the designs.
     


  10. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

    Messages:
    25,745
    Likes Received:
    238
    Joined:
    May 24, 2002
    Location:
    Constantinople
    Jil Sander had a spat with Patrzio Bertelli over that Bertelli has a penchant for using cheap materials which Ms.Sander would not stand. That was about 2 years ago. In the meanwhile it was taken by Milan Vukmirovic who used to be of Colette Paris as a buyer. He is now some sort of editor.

    So she left the company but returned over a new contract last year or so. Presumably the line still has its luxe materials. And their high prices.

    Prada bought Jil Sander in 2000 if I recall. When the luxury conglomerates had acquisition binges. Prada has a bad business model unlike LVMH.
     


  11. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

    Messages:
    35,189
    Likes Received:
    12,364
    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2002
    Location:
    Moscow, Idaho
    Seriously, Jil Sander is *very* famous, and not just in Germany. In England, her gear is everywhere. And no, Germany does not have the reputation for style that France, England, and Italy do, but that does not mean that these things don't change very rapidly. For example, until the 60's, Italy was considered subpar to France, but in the last 30 years or so, French fashion has fallen in stature compared to Italian due to the very clever "Made in Italy" marketing ploy. And if you really want to talk about "well known" brands, i.e.e well known not just by the cognescenti, you really can't disregard Hugo Boss. I was just thinking of the brands that are recognized by the fashion literate as good brands.
     


  12. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

    Messages:
    25,745
    Likes Received:
    238
    Joined:
    May 24, 2002
    Location:
    Constantinople
    Germany also has MCM a well known leather goods manufacturer that was quite popular in the 70's.

    They still exist, and are well-liked in Korea I believe.
     


  13. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

    Messages:
    35,189
    Likes Received:
    12,364
    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2002
    Location:
    Moscow, Idaho
    On the *trendy* side: Strellson, Signum. More will occur to me soon, I'm sure.
     


  14. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

    Messages:
    25,745
    Likes Received:
    238
    Joined:
    May 24, 2002
    Location:
    Constantinople
    And Escada which is very famous. Designed by Margetha Ley.

    Karl Lagerfeld is German as well.
     


  15. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,582
    Likes Received:
    12
    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2003
    Life lesson - there is ALWAYS somebody who knows more than you [​IMG]
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by