Lesser 9.5/10 ounce book

[voxsartoria]

Not a great pic, but:

Closeup:

- B

 

[TheFoo]

Nice. Like the tie, too.

 

[yachtie]

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

Depends on the cloth. Tweeds are often heavier but they have a very porous weave and a certain sponginess to their yarns which makes them insular but not necessarily either smothering or too heavy.

The problem with heavier worsted cloths is thats after 13oz, they begin to become dead weight on the shoulder. That was always a complaint for wool overcoat cloths, where to get insulation, they had to be very heavy which tired the body. That is why cashmeres are generally preferred for overcoats, they provide warmth without weight.

Originally Posted by Manton

Compared with a big manly tough guy he-man like you, I am sure I am a toothpick, muscle-wise, and 16 ounce worsted does not tire me at all, so this gets a big

Originally Posted by Cary Grant

QFT. I'd die in 16oz... even when it's well below freezing... no way I could routinely where that indoors.

FWIW, just had a second fitting for a 16/17 oz worsted suit in R&T Silver Gander ( Not loose woven) and although I bought it for winter wear, it didn't wear particularly warm. So I'd guess I could wear 16 oz worsteds for eight months out of the year w/o problems. I'd think a 9.5/10 oz worsted would be for spring and fall and keep the linen blends and tropical worsteds for summer.


Just ordered some really cool

platinum bale ( wtvr that means) and 25% kid mohair suitings for summer -250 g/m (about 8 ozs) Open weave and REALLY light- but has nice body from the mohair.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Nice. Like the tie, too.

Thanks. It's an Attolini six-fold.

Originally Posted by yachtie

Just ordered some really cool

platinum bale ( wtvr that means) and 25% kid mohair suitings for summer -250 g/m (about 8 ozs) Open weave and REALLY light- but has nice body from the mohair.

Made by whom?


- B

 

[Cary Grant]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Alsport and Worsted Alsport are two different things. Alsport is true tweed, and starts at 16 oz. Worsted Alsport is just worsted cloth made to look tweed-like, and is only 12 oz. See here:

http://www.hfw-huddersfield.co.uk/ha...seco=H?cate=K?

Ah thanks- yes indeed I was thinking of straight Alsport.

 

[Cary Grant]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Not a great pic, but:

Closeup:

- B

Nicely done! Who's the tailor?

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by Cary Grant

Nicely done! Who's the tailor?

Thank you. Edwin DeBoise of Steed.


- B

 

[Cary Grant]

Is that stripe a burnt orange or red?

 

[dopey]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

You did a full suit in a country pattern? Can we see?

Having seen the full suit photos, is that really a country pattern? Seems not to me.

 

[Manton]

Nice to see Vox in a decent tie. While I love the square as well, I don't think they work together, however.

 

[Will]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Closeup:

We often disagree about these things but Manton is right about the tie and pocket square. Does that make me his syncophant?

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by dopey

Having seen the full suit photos, is that really a country pattern? Seems not to me.

Hmmm...a decent point. Here's a swatch in a bad flash pic:

Not enough rus in urbe?

Originally Posted by Manton

Nice to see Vox in a decent tie. While I love the square as well, I don't think they work together, however.

Originally Posted by Will

We often disagree about these things but Manton is right about the tie and pocket square. Does that make me his syncophant?

Now I'll have to wear this combo all the time.


- B

 

[Concordia]

My feeling is that if it gets solidly below freezing at night, I can probably go with 13-16oz worsted (and under some circumstances, flannels) during the day. We just hit that weather in Boston last week, so figure about 5 months of potential use for winter suits.

There are a handful of the Lessers Tropicals that are especially substantial-- I could also probably wear those without feeling like a complete idiot as long as I had a topcoat. Which I don't prefer to wear.

Anyway, we have overlapping zones of use:

16oz: dead of winter, or when it feels like it. 5 months + in Boston, in the right weave.

12/13oz: not so different in temperature properties. Noticeably easier to cart around, however, and often available in brighter colors. So this can be useful from the cooler parts of September on, and can be stretched into April or early May. Sometimes the best part of spring is just wearing lighter-weight clothing even if it doesn't make you any cooler. 8 months?

10/11: often pitched as "year-round" weight. This isn't a bad start although I'm getting a bit frustrated in my search for one that will do the warm spring and fall days. Generally too hot for summer, not quite substantial enough for winter. Still, could do March-June and parts of Sept-October. Call it 4 months, unless you're more tolerant than I. Exceptions-- the Smith Finmeresco and (here's hoping) the LL Brisa, which is really 13oz. Those won't be for real summer wear but will get pretty close. Also, Scabal has a few things like Quattro 10oz (4-ply, super 130s high-twist) that I'd like to check out.

9oz: covers most of summer except for the absolute dog days, when only linen really will work or perhaps mohair. The beefier samples can go surprisingly late into the cooler weather.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Now I'll have to wear this combo all the time.

- B

Don't be churlish, we are trying to help.

 

[Film Noir Buff]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Hmmm...a decent point. Here's a swatch in a bad flash pic:

Now I'll have to wear this combo all the time. - B
That's the spirit