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Lengthing a suit jacket

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by demeis, Nov 30, 2004.

  1. demeis

    demeis Senior member

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    Ok here is better pics, i hope these are what you ment. And Alexis what are the advantages of working button holes? [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  2. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    I think it looks good.

    Do not cut working buttonholes on that suit. You'd be paying almost as much for the button holes as you would for the suit. That would be patently ridiculous to do.

    And, anyways, working buttonholes are very risky. I have seen them done really badly and if the sleeve length gets screwed up somehow you are in a mess.
     
  3. demeis

    demeis Senior member

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    Whats the difference between working button holes and umm i guess non working button holes? Why would i want them etc. etc.
     
  4. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Senior member

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    I think it looks fine.
     
  5. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    Huh? The difference between "nonworking" and "working" buttonholes? Well, working buttonholes "work" of course -- you can literally unbutton the sleeve at the point the button goes into the buttonhole.

    You wouldn't want them on this suit because it costs about $100 to have them done.
     
  6. demeis

    demeis Senior member

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    But whats the advantage really?  Do they look better or are they classier?  I don't really see how being able to unbotton your sleeves is that big of an advantage.
     
  7. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    Hold on to that confusion, Demeis. It will save you much money.

    There is almost no functional advantage to working buttonholes.
     
  8. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    I know there are many here who would disagree. If you want to save the money, sham buttons are fine, but do some reading on the other posts here (there are MANY on this topic) and you might start to feel a bit differently. Also, read this by Tom Wolfe: http://www.jderickson.com/clothing/secretvice.html
     
  9. demeis

    demeis Senior member

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    OK just wanted to clear that up. Most likely i'm not going to get them if they are $100 or around their. I'm a college student with limited income so i could do a lot with $100. Thanks for suggesting them maybe some day...sigh
     
  10. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    Tom Wolfe is an asshole. [​IMG] Great (albeit slightly depressing) read.
     
  11. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Correction: Tom Wolfe is a pretentious, prudish, invicibly stupid asshole. And a highly overrated writer too, though he has his points.

    The jacket is a fine length. If the suit was a body skimming Dolce and Gabbana, body conscious style suit or a classic Gieves and Hawkes or Huntsman model, I might advocate for a little longer jacket. But for anything else, I think that a shorter skirted style jacket looks better. Milanese jackets are generally shorter skirted, for example. The waist looks to be at the right height, and the sleeves seem the right length. I don't understand why so many men seem to be wearing jackets longer and longer. Don't they understand that puberty ends doesn't extend into their twenties and thirties? Or are they influenced by Sunday Morning Televangelist style?
     
  12. demeis

    demeis Senior member

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    Yeh i've noticed people wearing long jackets as well but this one was just shorter than the rest of mine, maybe i'm guilty of jackets that are to long. [​IMG]
     
  13. Horace

    Horace Senior member

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    I agree -- I think it looks good. It might be a tad short, but what the hell. I think it might be possible to have jacket lengthened 1/2 inch.

    I have a jacket, bespoke, that I need to have lengthened a bit. I've had it for about 25 years, and it's a tad too short.
     
  14. Horace

    Horace Senior member

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    And if any of us doubted it, we doubt it no more, given his latest book and interviews, etc attendant to it.
     
  15. BjornH

    BjornH Senior member

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    This 'rule of thumb' is a personal one and it's just plain silly to tell people otherwise. What it's good for is that your hands are an excellent measuring stick that you never forget at home.

    Find the perfect length of a jacket, both by visual means and by the divide-by-two rule. Watch where the bottom of the jacket is in relation to your hands and make a note of it.

    I am a 5ft8 with relatively long (34.5) hands. The knucle of my thumb rule works for me but for somebody who takes 33' sleeves it would be 1.5 inch too short. What complicates matters further is that your perfect lenght depends both the cut and also on the your body type. People with short legs need shorter jackets. If you've got long legs you can go for a long version and look good.

    On topic, this jacket looks phukka to me and will even look better once the trousers have been taken in and put in their place.

    B
     
  16. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    Bjorn, your HANDS are 34.5"... Good, Lord. That's the length of my entire arm. [​IMG]
     
  17. Alexis

    Alexis Senior member

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    sorry, I didn't know you were on a limited budget...

    if you were to have bought this suit new, the store's tailor would have made the bottonholes operational for no extra cost.

    he would if he wasn't a dick.

    he would do a good job if he wasn't an incompetent dick.
     
  18. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    In re: Tom Wolfe.

    Why the vitriol?  The essay linked is clearly a joke, or at least a partial joke.  It is sociology.  Wolfe is poking fun at the foibles of those of us (himself, and myself, and most of us on this board, included) who obsess over "custom tailoring and the mania for the marginal differences that go into it."  People in glass houses, as they say ...

    As to the claim that he is an "asshole": I can only say that I have met him, and he is unfailingly charming and polite. As to the claim that he is a "pretentious, prudish, invicibly stupid asshole": well. He wears funny clothes, but he is far from pretentious. In fact, he regularly treats "earthy" subjects that any genuinely pretentious writer (which is to say, most living novelists) would not touch. He constantly makes fun of himself, his profession, his hometown, intellectuals, and the world around him. How is that pretentious? Also, he is not a prude. Far from it. A prude could not and would not write what he writes. He reports what he sees. If what he sees is lurid, he reports that. Wolfe is a classic 19th century novelist: he writes about "the way we live now." How is that prudish? And his knowledge and learning and intellect speak for themselves in his books.  It is simply not credible or serious to call him "invincibly stupid."

    "And a highly overrated writer too, though he has his points." This, I suppose, is a matter of taste. I happen to think that he is not rated highly enough.
     
  19. BjornH

    BjornH Senior member

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    Damn . I keep writing feet instead of legs and hands instead of arms. As you can probably tell, hands and arms share a common word in my language - same goes for feet and legs. B
     
  20. j

    j Senior member Admin

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    Err... huh? [​IMG] "Dick"ness not withstanding, the making of functional buttonholes is not something to be entrusted to a "store tailor", especially on a suit on which it would be worth doing them. They require a considerable amount of skilled labor, and no one should expect to get them done for free, unless it is written into the price of the suit.
     

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