lefty's random dog thread.

[IronRock]

Had a pup earmarked from a litter that was born on Friday (Labrador). Thing is the ***** had elevenpups. 7 black dogs, 2 black bitches, 1 yellow dog and one yellow *****. One of the black dogs died after a couple of hours and the I believe things aren't looking too good for another of the (black) dogs.

These are not Kennel club standard dogs but they do come from a solid and good working line, I am still concerned that 11 pups is quite a lot for one litter. I will reserve judgment till I see them for the first time next Saturday but interested to hear anyone's thoughts. BTW, I have one of the yellows earmarked.

 

[JLibourel]

If the surviving pups are healthy and vigorous, I don't think there's anything to worry about. There is nothing particularly extraordinary about an 11-puppy litter for large-breed dogs

My ***** Jessie came out of a 12-puppy litter (one stillborn--the 11 survivors were all fine). My great male Dempsey came out of a 10-puppy litter, as did my current male Cyrus.

 

[lefty]

I agree with this. Nothing to worry about. Puppies fade and die in large litters.

Here are some things to consider when looking at the litter:

Test 1. (Exploring the room)

Immediately explores, relaxed body posture, behaves confidently.
Explores after short hesitation, but then confidently.
Explores only after extended period, tense body posture, careful.
Almost does not explore, very careful.
Does not explore at all, clear signs of fear.

Test 2. (Coming to a stranger)

Comes immediately and confidently up to the person, head and body posture confident.
Comes immediately but somewhat guarded in the last stretch, head and body posture slightly tense.
Comes after a short time, somewhat guarded, head and body posture clearly tense.
Comes, but with clear signs of fear.
Does not come, clearly afraid.

Test 3. (Retrieve test - rolling a ball)

Immediately chases ball, takes ball in mouth and carries it, good speed.
Immediately chases ball, first smells and then takes ball in mouth, speed OK.
Hesitantly walks after ball, but takes ball in mouth, carries.
Hesitantly walks after ball, smells it, does not pick up.
Does not follow ball.
Clearly is afraid.

Test 4. (Coming to two strangers)

Comes immediately and confidently up to the persons, head and body posture confident.
Comes immediately but somewhat guarded in the last stretch, head and body posture slightly tense.
Comes after a short time, somewhat guarded, head and body posture clearly tense.
Comes, but with clear signs of fear.
Does not come, clearly shows fear.

Test 5. (Paw pressure - 10 seconds)

Allows it calmly and confidently (positive)
Defends himself energetically and aggressively (positive)
Pulls briefly, then allows it calmly and confidently.
Shows unsureness and clear inhibition, tries to free himself.
Panicky behavior, clear fear.

Test 6. (Laying on his back)

Lies confidently and relaxed, legs and paws are relaxed (positive)
Turns energetically and confidently, eventually becomes aggressive (positive)
Lies calmly, but tense, legs and paws are stiff.
Shows clear signs of fear.
Panicky behavior, urinates.

Test 7. (Noise)

Not frightened and inspects the bucket.
Briefly startled and inspects the bucket.
Frightened and inspects the bucket only after quite some time.
Clearly frightened and avoids the bucket.
Clearly shows fear.

Test 8. (Cigarette pack - empty box)

Chases fully committed, immediately takes in mouth, fights.
Chases, takes in mouth.
Chases after short motivation, takes in mouth.
Only chases after quite some time, takes in mouth.
Chases, does not take in mouth.
Does not chase.

Test 9. Making attraction with the box, then pulling the box up (Nerves)

Watches the box for a long time (more than 5 seconds) without letting himself be distracted.
Watches the box briefly, then jumps and barks at the box.
Watches the box briefly, becomes distracted and then watches the box again.
Watches the box only briefly, then is no longer interested

lefty

 

[jhcam8]

^^
Agree - I've known a number of Deerhound litters that were over 10 - generally, no problems.

 

[JLibourel]

Originally Posted by lefty

I agree with this. Nothing to worry about. Puppies fade and die in large litters.

Here are some things to consider when looking at the litter:

Test 1. (Exploring the room)

Immediately explores, relaxed body posture, behaves confidently.
Explores after short hesitation, but then confidently.
Explores only after extended period, tense body posture, careful.
Almost does not explore, very careful.
Does not explore at all, clear signs of fear.

Test 2. (Coming to a stranger)

Comes immediately and confidently up to the person, head and body posture confident.
Comes immediately but somewhat guarded in the last stretch, head and body posture slightly tense.
Comes after a short time, somewhat guarded, head and body posture clearly tense.
Comes, but with clear signs of fear.
Does not come, clearly afraid.

Test 3. (Retrieve test - rolling a ball)

Immediately chases ball, takes ball in mouth and carries it, good speed.
Immediately chases ball, first smells and then takes ball in mouth, speed OK.
Hesitantly walks after ball, but takes ball in mouth, carries.
Hesitantly walks after ball, smells it, does not pick up.
Does not follow ball.
Clearly is afraid.

Test 4. (Coming to two strangers)

Comes immediately and confidently up to the persons, head and body posture confident.
Comes immediately but somewhat guarded in the last stretch, head and body posture slightly tense.
Comes after a short time, somewhat guarded, head and body posture clearly tense.
Comes, but with clear signs of fear.
Does not come, clearly shows fear.

Test 5. (Paw pressure - 10 seconds)

Allows it calmly and confidently (positive)
Defends himself energetically and aggressively (positive)
Pulls briefly, then allows it calmly and confidently.
Shows unsureness and clear inhibition, tries to free himself.
Panicky behavior, clear fear.

Test 6. (Laying on his back)

Lies confidently and relaxed, legs and paws are relaxed (positive)
Turns energetically and confidently, eventually becomes aggressive (positive)
Lies calmly, but tense, legs and paws are stiff.
Shows clear signs of fear.
Panicky behavior, urinates.

Test 7. (Noise)

Not frightened and inspects the bucket.
Briefly startled and inspects the bucket.
Frightened and inspects the bucket only after quite some time.
Clearly frightened and avoids the bucket.
Clearly shows fear.

Test 8. (Cigarette pack - empty box)

Chases fully committed, immediately takes in mouth, fights.
Chases, takes in mouth.
Chases after short motivation, takes in mouth.
Only chases after quite some time, takes in mouth.
Chases, does not take in mouth.
Does not chase.

Test 9. Making attraction with the box, then pulling the box up (Nerves)

Watches the box for a long time (more than 5 seconds) without letting himself be distracted.
Watches the box briefly, then jumps and barks at the box.
Watches the box briefly, becomes distracted and then watches the box again.
Watches the box only briefly, then is no longer interested

lefty

Of course, these tests were pretty much devised based on Labs and GSDs. I don't think most Tosas would score too well on it. A friend of mine who was into Filas said just about all Fila pups would fail miserably.

 

[lefty]

How would a stable Tosa puppy fare? Are they shy/reserved puppies? No prey/ball drive?

lefty

 

[IronRock]

Thanks guys - all very helpful. I will let you know how the initial look goes next week and post some pics too. The mum (Inca) doing well.

 

[dcg]

http://www.wikihow.com/Pick-Up-Dog-Poop

 

[JLibourel]

Originally Posted by lefty

How would a stable Tosa puppy fare? Are they shy/reserved puppies? No prey/ball drive?

lefty

A good deal more reserved than a lot of puppies, I'd say, but I would steer clear of any puppy that was overtly shy. Genetic shyness is pretty common in many of the "molosser" breeds, as you are doubtless aware.

Ball drive I would describe as "medium" for most of them. They--many of them--are far more prey-driven than most of the large-breed molossers. For that reason, they are less inclined to be homebodies than many mastiff types---given a chance, they'd rather be out looking for something to kill. For my dogs Jessie, Dempsey and especially Cyrus, the sight of a rabbit or squirrel would drive them crazy with blood-lust. Cyrus smashed up my knee rather badly early this month--a major sprain--as he slammed into me going after a squirrel that had suddenly reversed course. I'm still recovering.

 

[NorCal]

Anyone with any experience with dog booties? Sizing in particular.

After Nixie cut the crap out of her paw I decided to buy a pair. It is still healing and looks like it will be a while before she is 100%. Of course she does not know this and will run and play until it splits open.

My question is how should they fit? The hard rubber pad is just a tiny bit wider than her pad as is, should they be as tight as possible? Judging by the size chart I could size down, but getting a measurement on her pad is hard, and her current size L seems to be right on w/ just a little extra.

So should they be tight on or is a little wiggle room ok?

(sorry for the really anal question)

 

[JayJay]

My dog wore a rubber boot when he cut his paw, and he wears a whole set during deep snowfalls. I measured his paws and bought the recommended size. His fits a little loose providing a bit of wiggle room.

 

[lefty]

Originally Posted by JLibourel

A good deal more reserved than a lot of puppies, I'd say, but I would steer clear of any puppy that was overtly shy. Genetic shyness is pretty common in many of the "molosser" breeds, as you are doubtless aware.

Ball drive I would describe as "medium" for most of them. They--many of them--are far more prey-driven than most of the large-breed molossers. For that reason, they are less inclined to be homebodies than many mastiff types---given a chance, they'd rather be out looking for something to kill. For my dogs Jessie, Dempsey and especially Cyrus, the sight of a rabbit or squirrel would drive them crazy with blood-lust. Cyrus smashed up my knee rather badly early this month--a major sprain--as he slammed into me going after a squirrel that had suddenly reversed course. I'm still recovering.

In general you probably want a puppy that hits the second level of that list. A puppy that tests out at the top is a pain ********** to live with as a pet. You want: confidence, curiosity, prey drive, a retrieve and the ability to be handled. If the dog starts at a loud noise (as it should) you judge the ability to recover.

Originally Posted by NorCal

Anyone with any experience with dog booties? Sizing in particular.

After Nixie cut the crap out of her paw I decided to buy a pair. It is still healing and looks like it will be a while before she is 100%. Of course she does not know this and will run and play until it splits open.

My question is how should they fit? The hard rubber pad is just a tiny bit wider than her pad as is, should they be as tight as possible? Judging by the size chart I could size down, but getting a measurement on her pad is hard, and her current size L seems to be right on w/ just a little extra.

So should they be tight on or is a little wiggle room ok?

These aren't APC New Standards.

There was a winter where people started using a blue pellet for deicing sidewalks and it pretty much burned the pads of every dog who walked across it so I picked up some boots. I would say tight could be uncomfortable especially if there is swelling, so a little wiggle room is better. I eventually started using a musher's wax for the pads. Not sure if that would work for you.

lefty

 

[lefty]

Find the Pit Bull. http://www.pitbullsontheweb.com/petbull/findpit.html Random:

lefty

 

[jhcam8]

Originally Posted by lefty

Find the Pit Bull.

http://www.pitbullsontheweb.com/petbull/findpit.html

lefty

17 and 24 - although the camera angle on 17 may be deceptive.

 

[lefty]

Nope.

lefty